air in rear brake line

Started by spaugh, June 11, 2008, 02:21:42 PM

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spaugh

I have no rear brakes at the moment.  I got air in them while trying to bleed and can't get it out for the life of me.  I have a vacuum hand bleeder  that I use.  I accidentally let the vacuum go and got air in the caliper and now can't get it out.  I have run a whole bottle of dot4 through it and still no luck.

When you guys bleed the rear brakes, are you just hooking up to the zerk on the rear caliper or is there another \ better way to get air out.  I didn't want to have to take the whole brake system off the bike to get the bubbles to rise to the top to get them out.  Please help. 

ducpainter

Quote from: spaugh on June 11, 2008, 02:21:42 PM
I have no rear brakes at the moment.  I got air in them while trying to bleed and can't get it out for the life of me.  I have a vacuum hand bleeder  that I use.  I accidentally let the vacuum go and got air in the caliper and now can't get it out.  I have run a whole bottle of dot4 through it and still no luck.

When you guys bleed the rear brakes, are you just hooking up to the zerk on the rear caliper or is there another \ better way to get air out.  I didn't want to have to take the whole brake system off the bike to get the bubbles to rise to the top to get them out.  Please help. 
If your caliper is below the rotor you need to remove it and get it above the master. It works best when you bleed with the fitting at the highest point in the system.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
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Slide Panda

It helps to note what year and size monster you have since there's differences.

Either way for over or under calipers, I found the old pump the lever method has gotten the best results for me.  The Vac is good if I'm flushing the fluids, but air always seems to seep in around the threads.  So the ole pump the level and open the bleeder a tiny bit, might be slower - but at least for me in means a better quality of bleed.
-Throttle's on the right, so are the brakes.  Good luck.
- '00 M900S with all the farkles
- '08 KTM 690 StupidMoto
- '07 Triumph 675 Track bike.

Grio

Quote from: ducpainter on June 11, 2008, 02:53:27 PM
If your caliper is below the rotor you need to remove it and get it above the master. It works best when you bleed with the fitting at the highest point in the system.

+1 amazing what a difference this makes.  I struggled with mine untill I had a buddy help & hold the caliper in a position where the air bubbled up to the fitting.  Super easy then...
Little Biscuits!

spaugh

I have an 05 s2r 800, the caliper is below the master.  I will take the caliper off and see if the air will come up.  Thanks guys.

ducpainter

Quote from: spaugh on June 11, 2008, 03:53:51 PM
I have an 05 s2r 800, the caliper is below the master.  I will take the caliper off and see if the air will come up.  Thanks guys.
Make sure to put something in between the pads to keep the pistons from pushing out too far, or set the caliper on the top of the rotor.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



spaugh

I came home, took the caliper off the rotor, held in in a way that the air could come up to the zerk, and bled for a few seconds, shut the zerk, and wala I now have rock solid brakes.  ;D ;D [thumbsup] [moto] [drink] [beer] [clap]

Thanks for the input guys.  Just got to get the zerk up so the air can float upward and it works.