Rear Brake seize issue Monster 1000ie

[Twizted]

Hi guys,
I went for a rather spirited run this afternoon along some country roads. After taking a few bends I came to a straight section of road and gave it a bit of throttle all the way to 180kms an hour. As I back off I noticed it felt like it was lugging bad so I dropped it back a gear, no difference down another and thought geeze feels like the brake is on. I pulled up and yep, bad smell of brakes and roasting hot rotor. I could not even move the bike for 30 mins due to the rear brake seizing. After it cooled all was good and only using front brake I rode home. On inspection I noted that the screw that activates the rear brake light switch was screwed all the way out because the nut that stops it from doing that is gone.

Two things I want to know. Will I have to replace the pads? I have not inspected them yet but I have a 2nd hand set here with plenty of meat on them that the PO gave me. I tested the rear brake in the driveway when I got home and they seemed to work ok.

Also what is the size of the nut that stops the rear brake light switch screw from moving in and out?

Cheers in advance.

[Jarvicious]

Pads are probably ok.  Hell, you probably did a better job of bedding them than any of us could have done on purpose   Not to mention, does it really matter if the rear works that well? 

As far as the nut goes, just take your bike over to your local fastener store (Fastenal or Ace hardware here) and go in, talk to one of the employees, and they'll probably let you take hardware out to your bike and test it until you find the right bit.  Good luck.

[Speeddog]

The nut should be an M6x1.

I've got two rear rotors hanging on the shop wall that have gone cone shaped from being cooked like that.
They weren't obviously coned until the bolts were removed.

[ducpainter]

The nut should be an M6x1.

I've got two rear rotors hanging on the shop wall that have gone cone shaped from being cooked like that.
They weren't obviously coned until the bolts were removed.

...and if it doesn't warp it may get hardened from heat soak in the area the pads were touching when you stopped.

That will cause pulsing down the road.

[Twizted]

Ok guys thanks heaps. I will take it for a run today to see how it goes.

[Twizted]

Took it for a run. Everything works as it should. Ty for the replies 

Oh and as for the bolt my LED tail light that I Purchased off eBay arrived today and what do you know..... the nuts for the tail light fit the thread for the bolt for the rear brake light switch. I just reused the nuts from the oem tail light on the led and one of the new nuts for the brake light switch. I used some locktite this time.

[jimboecv]

The nut should be an M6x1.

I've got two rear rotors hanging on the shop wall that have gone cone shaped from being cooked like that.
They weren't obviously coned until the bolts were removed.

My four fronts beat your two rears! Ha!
New pads, new fluid (must), new disk.  It's just your brakes.