Extremely bad clutch slip.

Started by Veloce-Fino, March 18, 2011, 01:53:57 PM

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booger

I used to have a set of ASVs, didn't like them because of the clutch switch provision or lack thereof. They look badass and are nicely made. Apparently they're not very well thought out though. I'm now rocking CRGs and they didn't address the clutch interlock switch phenomenon either but a quick mod made them work beautifully. I was sick and tired of returning parts and needed an adjustable lever. Tell me what's so mind numbingly difficult about CNCing a lever with a nub on it to actuate a small switch? Brembo seemed successful with their crudely cast stock levers but the miracle of CNC can't do it. I digress.
Everybody got a plan 'till they get punched in the mouth - Mike Tyson

2001 M900Sie - sold
2006 S2R1000 - sold
2008 HM1100S - sold
2004 998 FE - $old
2007 S4RT
2007 Vespa LX50 aka "Slowey"
2008 BMW R1200 GSA

Veloce-Fino

#16
Quote from: bergdoerfer on March 18, 2011, 06:49:58 PM
I used to have a set of ASVs, didn't like them because of the clutch switch provision or lack thereof. They look badass and are nicely made. Apparently they're not very well thought out though. I'm now rocking CRGs and they didn't address the clutch interlock switch phenomenon either but a quick mod made them work beautifully. I was sick and tired of returning parts and needed an adjustable lever. Tell me what's so mind numbingly difficult about CNCing a lever with a nub on it to actuate a small switch? Brembo seemed successful with their crudely cast stock levers but the miracle of CNC can't do it. I digress.

Agreed. With the ASV's I had to bend and manipulate the position of the neutral lockout switch in order to get the ASV lever to contact it. My lever came with a little piece of plastic that attached to the lever and was designed to actuate the switch pin but it did not contact it initially.

In regard to the clutch slipping.

Tomorrow I'll be doing:
Oil/filter change.
filling reservoir to max recommended point
reinstalling stock lever.

Hopefully one of these solves the issue. I'm beginning to think it is an oil issue. The oil is quite dirty and very dark.

Some may ask "Why didn't I change it"

Well the clearly inept "expert" at my local dealer said that after the initial 600 mile change to let it go until 7500 which was very common for the S2R bikes. He must have forgotten the 696 was different and the the wet clutch could get gunked up from dirty oil.
Is this thing on?

Veloce-Fino

Apparently not a single store within 20 miles of me stocks an oil filter or crush washers for the 696.

I'm going to order a K&N 153 from amazon.

As for the crush washers I may be forced to go to the dealer who will probably have to order them.
Is this thing on?

booger

Don't order it from amazon when ca cycleworks is a sponsor and can provide the washer and put a snickers in the box for good measure.
Also you can reuse the washer if you absolutely have to, just sand it a little with some fine grit on a flat surface like a piece of glass or something.
Not surprised the Ducati oil filters are not normally stocked items at the McParts places.
Everybody got a plan 'till they get punched in the mouth - Mike Tyson

2001 M900Sie - sold
2006 S2R1000 - sold
2008 HM1100S - sold
2004 998 FE - $old
2007 S4RT
2007 Vespa LX50 aka "Slowey"
2008 BMW R1200 GSA

Veloce-Fino

Quote from: bergdoerfer on March 19, 2011, 11:29:12 AM
Don't order it from amazon when ca cycleworks is a sponsor and can provide the washer and put a snickers in the box for good measure.
Also you can reuse the washer if you absolutely have to, just sand it a little with some fine grit on a flat surface like a piece of glass or something.
Not surprised the Ducati oil filters are not normally stocked items at the McParts places.

I'd be more than happy to use Ca-cycle but I couldn't find the crush washers anywhere on their site.

They have the filter, can you link to the washers?
Is this thing on?

booger

Just ask Chris, I'm sure he can hook you up with a washer. If not it really doesn't hurt anything to reuse the one you have.
Everybody got a plan 'till they get punched in the mouth - Mike Tyson

2001 M900Sie - sold
2006 S2R1000 - sold
2008 HM1100S - sold
2004 998 FE - $old
2007 S4RT
2007 Vespa LX50 aka "Slowey"
2008 BMW R1200 GSA

erkishhorde

Quote from: Veloce-Fino on March 18, 2011, 05:06:34 PM
When in gear with the clutch disengaged at a stop the clutch appears to be fully disengaged. The bike it not pulling at all.

HOWEVER! Your statement reminded me of something. After that shop fixed the jammed shifter issue, shifts into gear from neutral at a stop became very rough. The bike would jump more than it had previously. Now a little jolt is typical for most bikes but it became much more noticeable after the work had been done. I even mentioned it to the tech.

I have a wet clutch but regardless it is still a little noisy as normal. However after the shop worked on it I could "feel" the clutch chattering a little more than usual. I know it sounds odd but you get to know your machine very well after some time. It definitely felt and even sounded different.

Any thoughts on this? 

This part me wondering if maybe something was adjusted incorrectly after you took it to the shop and the jumping when shifting out of neutral was a bit of drag from the clutch not fully disengaging. Then, over time, this drag quickly wore out your clutch. *shrug* I dunno. If you're changing the oil, maybe you want to take the cover off and inspect your plates while you're at it?
ErkZ NOT in SLO w/ his '95 m900!
The end is in sight! Gotta buckle down and get to work!

errazor

If you've bothered to read George's post about oil you would know that the oil filter is like the kidneys and liver for your engine and the oil is like its blood.
76 SUZUKI GT 100,  88 YAMAHA TDR 250,  07 DUCATI S2R 1000.

BK_856er

Quote from: errazor on March 19, 2011, 01:35:27 PM
If you've bothered to read George's post about oil you would know that the oil filter is like the kidneys and liver for your engine and the oil is like its blood.

That's a great analogy!  I miss George.   :'(

- My wet-clutch M695 has a very strong preference for Mobil MX-4T.  Other moto oils always seem to cause some slipping.  I now ONLY use MX-4T.

- V-F, looks like you're on the right path with your plan.  I would also remove the long clutch rod, clean it, inspect it, replace the two little o-rings with some lithium grease on them, and a tiny dab of moly grease on both ends of the rod.  Make sure there is no case sealer interfering with the rod.

- Don't OVER fill the reservoir with fluid - you need the head-space for expansion.

- Your stuck shifter work was probably all on the alternator side.

- Replaced my wet clutch recently to fix some slipping under certain high-load conditions.  The ~20k mile old parts looked fine and measured good, but the new parts solved my issue.

- If you've been slipping, you might have some glazing/burnt discs.  Get some fresh MX-4T in there and give it a few hundred miles to see if it resolves itself.

BK

Veloce-Fino

Quote from: erkishhorde on March 19, 2011, 01:04:34 PM
This part me wondering if maybe something was adjusted incorrectly after you took it to the shop and the jumping when shifting out of neutral was a bit of drag from the clutch not fully disengaging. Then, over time, this drag quickly wore out your clutch. *shrug* I dunno. If you're changing the oil, maybe you want to take the cover off and inspect your plates while you're at it?

This is a possibility. However the issue was not with the clutch or even the transmission. It was with the gear selector arm that was traveling too far and getting stuck below it's mounting point

More in this thread: http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=42237.15

I'm fairly certain the issue is one of these three.

1) ASV levers "riding" the clutch due to lack of free play and no adjustability
2) Dirty oil gunking up the clutch discs
3) Total failure of clutch as a result of one of the above or my inherent bad luck.

Quote from: errazor on March 19, 2011, 01:35:27 PM
If you've bothered to read George's post about oil you would know that the oil filter is like the kidneys and liver for your engine and the oil is like its blood.

I fully understand the importance of oil and the filtering system. Bikes may be new to me but I've been building cars for a while now.

Quote from: BK_856er on March 19, 2011, 01:59:58 PM
That's a great analogy!  I miss George.   :'(

1- My wet-clutch M695 has a very strong preference for Mobil MX-4T.  Other moto oils always seem to cause some slipping.  I now ONLY use MX-4T.

2- V-F, looks like you're on the right path with your plan.  I would also remove the long clutch rod, clean it, inspect it, replace the two little o-rings with some lithium grease on them, and a tiny dab of moly grease on both ends of the rod.  Make sure there is no case sealer interfering with the rod.

3- Don't OVER fill the reservoir with fluid - you need the head-space for expansion.

4- Your stuck shifter work was probably all on the alternator side.

5- Replaced my wet clutch recently to fix some slipping under certain high-load conditions.  The ~20k mile old parts looked fine and measured good, but the new parts solved my issue.

6- If you've been slipping, you might have some glazing/burnt discs.  Get some fresh MX-4T in there and give it a few hundred miles to see if it resolves itself.

BK
1. I bought Mobil 1 MX4t 10W40 - so we're good there

2. Will do.

3. Check.

4. Correct.

5. That's $ I'm not trying to spend if not necessary

6. Let's hope so.
Is this thing on?

Veloce-Fino

#25
On Another note:

Removed the clutch lever and installed the stock.

I measured the distance that the stock lever was depressing the plunger rod when in a neutral position. Then I reinstalled the ASV and measured the distance. The ASV lever was depressing the plunger rod over twice as much as the stockers.

Conclusion: ASV clutch lever was absolutely riding the clutch and preventing full engagement of the clutch when in gear.

Solution: the "cup" where the plunger rod inserts on the lever is not adjustable on the ASV, it is cnc'ed into the lever. I used a tapered drill bit to both widen and deepen the cup where the plunger rod inserts. Nearly 1/4 inch was added to the depth!!

After doing this the plunger rod was depressed almost exactly the same as the stock lever. I threw some lithium grease on the plunger rod and the lever mounting pin and reinstalled everything.

Rode bike and no more slipping.

This is the weird part.... If the ASV lever was constantly riding the clutch over the last ~2k miles why did the slipping only become an issue yesterday? And why did it stop when I fixed the issue? Shouldn't the issue have been intermittent until the point of failure and then constant after?

I feel like I just put a band-aid on the problem and my clutch is still on it's way out as a result of 2000+ miles of unknowingly riding the clutch.

*still changing the oil next weekend also.



EDIT*  POST COUNT pregnant dogES - check it.
Is this thing on?

BK_856er

Hard to say...maybe took a while to wear/glaze enough to cause slippage?

Anyway, great to hear that you seem to have found the primary cause.   [thumbsup]

BK

BK_856er


stopintime

I'd change the oil and pretend it never happened [beer]

Chances are you'll have to change the clutch pack sooner than you otherwise would have to,
but for now I think you should be satisfied.



To maintain 1198, delete one old post for each new [cheeky]
252,000 km/seventeen years - loving it

Veloce-Fino

Got everything ordered.

Worked with Chris/Candice at ca-cycle. Called to order and Candice got it shipped out an hour later.

PROPS!
Is this thing on?