adjusting the shifter

Started by leungevity, March 22, 2011, 01:16:38 PM

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leungevity

in my motorcycle boot thread, i mentioned that i'm having a hard time getting my wee toe underneath the shifter with my puma raceboots on, and somebody mentioned that it was a simple fix to adjust the shifter with a 8 and 10mm wrench. (i'm guessing to give me more room?) can anybody can tell me what needs to be done?

Thanks!

thought

not sure which bike you have, but there are instructions in the manual on how to adjust it for the 796... it's pretty simple to do
'10 SFS 1098
'11 M796 ABS - Sold
'05 SV650N - Sold

Slide Panda

I'm going to assume the new are the same as the old.  To adjust, there's a threaded rod that has two hiem joints secured with nuts to jamb them. This connects the foot lever to the small lever attached to the shifting mechanism.

All you need to do is loosen the nuts each end and turn the rod. One end is reversed threading so be sure to have a close look before you lay a wrench on.
-Throttle's on the right, so are the brakes.  Good luck.
- '00 M900S with all the farkles
- '08 KTM 690 StupidMoto
- '07 Triumph 675 Track bike.

leungevity

thanks,  i'll check it out later when i get home! 

sorry, i have a monster 800sie

erkishhorde

Quote from: Sad Panda on March 22, 2011, 02:45:20 PM
I'm going to assume the new are the same as the old.  To adjust, there's a threaded rod that has two hiem joints secured with nuts to jamb them. This connects the foot lever to the small lever attached to the shifting mechanism.

All you need to do is loosen the nuts each end and turn the rod. One end is reversed threading so be sure to have a close look before you lay a wrench on.

Oh, I've been taking out the screw where the shifter lever mounts and taking the shifter off and rotating it that way. Is one way more right than the other? If so, I assume I'm doing it incorrectly. Not that I adjust my shift lever that often.
ErkZ NOT in SLO w/ his '95 m900!
The end is in sight! Gotta buckle down and get to work!

stopintime

Quote from: erkishhorde on March 23, 2011, 12:19:17 PM
Oh, I've been taking out the screw where the shifter lever mounts and taking the shifter off and rotating it that way. Is one way more right than the other? If so, I assume I'm doing it incorrectly. Not that I adjust my shift lever that often.

With the normal method, threads on both ends will move - making an adjustment a joint venture.
Your method could, with huge adjustments, result in too many exposed threads - making the assembly fall apart.

That's the theory - it's not very likely to happen though, but since you asked :)
252,000 km/seventeen years - loving it

leungevity

so i took a look at my bike, and it does look pretty simple, but it looks like you'd want to take the little arm off the transmission gearing and rotate that upwards (to allow for more room for the boot), and then put it all back together that way (which would include rotating that rod to lengthen it), not just turn the rod.  Is this correct or is what i'm describing a waste of time?

Speeddog

You can reposition the arm on the shift shaft, but it'll move the lever a* lot*.

Adjusting the shift rod lets you change it a little or a lot.
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stopintime

Quote from: leungevity on March 23, 2011, 02:16:28 PM
so i took a look at my bike, and it does look pretty simple, but it looks like you'd want to take the little arm off the transmission gearing and rotate that upwards (to allow for more room for the boot), and then put it all back together that way (which would include rotating that rod to lengthen it), not just turn the rod.  Is this correct or is what i'm describing a waste of time?

If you're talking about positioning the little arm up, instead of down - yes, it's a waste of time. It won't help your foot position issue and it will transform the shifter to a reverse/"GP" shift - first up and the rest down.

Just loosen the two nuts on either rod end, rotate the rod, check, tighten nuts [thumbsup]
252,000 km/seventeen years - loving it

Slide Panda

Quote from: Speeddog on March 23, 2011, 02:50:43 PM
You can reposition the arm on the shift shaft, but it'll move the lever a* lot*.

Yeah, rotating that little lever 1 spline moves the foot lever and inch or more, it's huge. You'll probably only need to move it a turn or maybe two if you're really having issues. But in fussing with mine, I've found a little goes a long way
-Throttle's on the right, so are the brakes.  Good luck.
- '00 M900S with all the farkles
- '08 KTM 690 StupidMoto
- '07 Triumph 675 Track bike.

leungevity

well, i've adjusted the arm as far as it can go... guess we'll find out if it's enough the next time i go ride :)

thanks for the help!  :)

odd that one of the 2 nuts maxed out first.  thought they would be the same.

Slide Panda

They should be. Might be that only one side was adjusted before.

If you've reached the end of where you can adjust the threaded rod, then you can take off that smaller lever that connects to the shifter shaft and move that. As mentioned before it moves the lever a lot. But if you've topped/bottomed out the threaded rod, you just mess with that again to make the jump not-so-huge
-Throttle's on the right, so are the brakes.  Good luck.
- '00 M900S with all the farkles
- '08 KTM 690 StupidMoto
- '07 Triumph 675 Track bike.

leungevity

so first ride with adjusted shifter, definitely easier to get the foot under the shifter than before, but i might have to adjust a little bit closed again, as i was finding that i had a harder time upshifting.  I'd shift, only to find out that i was still in the same gear, or sometimes i'd think i missed the shift and do it again, to see that i was now 2 gears up. 

guess i'll just keep playing with it, to try and find that happy medium between fitment and more positive shift actuation.

Timmy Tucker

It took me 3-4 tries to get mine where I like it. I made a slight adjustment and then rode it around the block with riding boots on. Lather, Rinse, Repeat. Took me maybe 30 mins total.


Quote from: leungevity on March 31, 2011, 07:17:50 AM
... as i was finding that i had a harder time upshifting.  I'd shift, only to find out that i was still in the same gear...  

For some reason mine takes a little extra work to upshift into 3rd unless I'm pretty high in the rpm's.
1999 M750 - "Piggy"
2007 S4RS

leungevity

yea, i'll play with it when i'm ready to take it out again... crappy weather coming so no point playing with it when i can't try it out.  I'm not having a physically harder time pushing the gear selector, it's just that when i do upshift, sometimes i don't actually actuate the transmission.  as if the distance to push it has increased... or moved beyond the range of motion that i would normally utilize.