
wait a tic.... i think its carbed.... so no ecu anything... jet kits... hrmmm
Never. sbks have been fuelies since the first # in the model was an 8.
Interesting things i have found since my OP. Lots of variants of the 998.
Not really.
Ohlins are out back and showa in front. Gonna rock that for now. Had the wheels painted black, not in a hurry to replace them.
The Showas are the normal stock, and harsh. Revalve them at a minimum and while doing so put in fresh fork oil - that's no more than around 300 in parts and a huge difference. And if you want performance, skipping wheels for anything else is a huge mistake! (Learned that first-hand...) That would easily account for the 10-15 hp you are looking for, while making the bike easier to turn, and being a substantial brake upgrade. Doing something else
instead of wheels would be a bad move for overall riding pleasure and wouldn't be dropping your laptimes at the track by as much - doing something else
in addition to lightweight wheels would be totally understandable (but one would want to do the wheels first because afterwards, they may not think another dollar need be spent on that part).
Pistal high comp pistons are not really for a daily driver. I couldnt find any info on cam or crank options.
Don't know where you heard that but my experience has been to the contrary. The only "downside" I can think of is the higher price - but they are a better design than the cheaper pistons with the more rigid box-in-box design (and can be ordered up with skirt coatings applied). Pistal Pistons are great for a daily driver - the box will frequently be marked "Pistal Pistons 1000DS
HC" for example - with HC denoting "high compression" and typically a bore size is given to tell you if its a direct drop in for the OEM bore, or if its bigger. The ones that are "not" for a daily driver are marked "
HHC". High-High Compression - with much higher domes. There's no reason either couldn't be used in a daily driver, though the HHC setup would require quite a bit more tuning and high test gas (if not race fuel). If anything, its not the Pistal pistons that would make it a poor daily driver, its the '998' that makes it a bad daily driver - its the last of the superbikes with extreme, race-oriented ergos before rider positioned move more towards the 'middle' ground with the 999.
Some background reading to catch you up to speed:
And for cams and other 998 goodies, there's plenty out there to look at. Heck, go download an older ducati performance catalog for the direct fit 998 parts. There is no such thing as "crank options" particular to a bike. It has a crank in it, you remove it and balance it for the change in weight when upgrading rods & pistons - while its out you have the choice of lightening it, knife-edging it, SPS-shape lightening it, and polishing it - none are necessary, but are relatively inexpensive when the motor is out.
Sidebar: If you are really, really interested in big 'fun' on a 998 - PM me and I can give you some details on a local bike, its had the full treatment done to it inside and out, and then some, etc. You'll also really want to give Jeff Nash a call (214-466-6540) when you are ready to pull the trigger on some things as he has the experience with these 916-998 S/SP/SPS/R/RS era bikes that is hard to match - its the bread-n-butter by which he was able to get things going - both on the racetrack and as a business. You'll want to talk to Jeff OR Jordan about the particular bike they've done all the work to that I can only give some general details on
If you were that interested in the motor's performance, there's not a lot of price difference between the net prices of upgrading pistons / rods and balancing the crank and upgrading pistons / rods and balancing/lightening/knife-edge/polishing the crank.
A good set of rods - Carillo for example, are around $675, Pistal Pistons MSRP for around $800-1,000 and are regularly had on sale for between $600-800. The crank-balancing shop often wants the pistons/rods to measure for optimum balancing, and you may well be able to get them to install the rods while its there. While that's out for work and everything is dismantled, you could go through the heads and make sure everything is in good shape - a port/polish, recut valve seats, examine valve guides, put in some Ti valves, etc. And when you are reassembling, put the big volume airbox in with larger air runners and the appropriate front fairing to get the additional flow - there's another cool 2 grand gone. Upgrade the injectors and bell mouths, more money.
But for all this work for a moderate gain in HP, you're looking at 'thousands' easily spent - exceeding the cost of the bike - and lots of down time for this kind of work. Motor is removed from frame, everything pulled off of it, crankcases are split, everything is done, then its reassembled. If you ever decide you do not want the bike, none of this work is separable for the sale, either.
so its back to wheels wheels wheels wheels wheels - With wheels, you get a huge benefit in acceleration - like motor work provides, but also substantially better handling from the reduced inertia - the bike is easier to turn. What's crazier still, is the benefits continue: With a lighter weight wheel, the suspension is able to react faster - allowing it to work more efficiently - the damping settings you choose are the primary factor in controlling the movement rather than battling against the inertia of a heavy wheel at the end of the swingarm or forks - its the reduction in unsprung weight that makes a substantial change. And just like the faster acceleration available through lightweight wheels, the lighter wheels are also easier to slow - like upgrading your brakes for free! And if you are rocking the normal goldline-style calipers - or even the 4-pads - compared to current production radials and monoblocks, a free brake upgrade is very nice!
The exhaust i have is either the 45mm slip ons or the termi 45/50 half system. Any full system on a US basic 998 requires custom work.
No?
http://www.ferracci.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=29And I believe MotoCorse certainly does have something for you, as does HPE, special ordered Sil Moto, and I'm not sure that a 996R/998R exhaust system
wouldn't fit.
In sum: its not cost efficient to do anything to the guts of the motor for 10-15hp. If you like the sound of the half-system - which is "free" because its already on the bike - don't go spending money on duplicative parts like a full system (yet). If the bike has the heavy cast wheels on it, toss those things into the back of the garage ASAP and find some forged aluminum wheels - take offs from the Hypermotard show up on eBay and that would provide an opportunity to upgrade the rotors to Brembo HP at the same time (5-bolt, 10mm offset - 996R/998R). Or, spend a little more and get a lot more with cast or forged magnesium wheels (again - show up on eBay kind of frequently for the older superbikes - or are available new) or BST's. That much of money invested in wheels is separable from the bike down the road if you want to sell.
Then revalving the forks for modest money would be a noticeable improvement. From their you could decide whether anything even needed 'doing' to the motor - and whether that be a full system for big dollars, the improved airbox/air-runner setups, a Corse-style crankcase breather setup, or mega-dollar internal motor work - you could do that step. But that only makes it go faster in a straight line - wheels do that, make it brake quicker, and both wheels and revalved forks make it go around turns faster - something a motor cannot do.