'10 M1100S carbon fiber rear hugger

[mjocanada]

I've been searching through past threads and it seems like the only way to replace my factory rear hugger with a new CF hugger is to remove the rear wheel. The last bolt is tucked between the wheel, hugger and swingarm. I found some posts on other sites that some guys loosened the chain all the way and were able to kind of get to the bolt but I'd rather pull the wheel off.

I've worked on bikes (regular maintenance things) for a long time but mainly japanese bikes, Ducati is new to me and so is the single-sided swingarm. Can someone post up or PM me the instructions to remove the rear wheel including torque specs for putting the wheel back on?

I found this on Bellissimoto's website and I'm wondering if Ducati uses a specific wheel nut socket? or can I get it from any hardware store?


I've got the Pitbull stands so I'm thinking the only extra tools I'll need to buy/find are the wheel nut socket (if it's something special just for Ducati) and a tool to remove that pressure pin (can't remember what its called).

Thanks, much appreciated for any help.
Mike

[ducpainter]

The wheel nut is a 46mm. You can buy a metric socket anywhere. The other side is 41mm I think, and should be checked periodically.

The tool on most sites is a combo deal with both sizes, but usually are made of aluminum. I own steel impact sockets for the job.

125 ft lbs will do for re-installation.

Pressure pin? ? ?

[mattc7]

One other thing that is helpful, but not necessary.

Impact tool for removal.  Otherwise, locking the rear wheel can be a pain.

Don't use it for reinstall, but to break the torque quick, without the wheel spinning it's excellent.

[mickb]

Hi,
I did this just last week, its crazy that the rear wheel needs to come off, but its the only way.
You need to remove the circlip, needle-nose pliers will do it. I then used a torque wrench with a 46mm socket, with a friend stepping on the rear brake pedal.

When putting it back on, just make sure when you tighten the nut, one of the gaps lines up with one of the holes to re-insert the end of the circlip, and its a good idea to zip-tie once back in place.
I'm a complete amateur, so if I can manage it, you should be good to go 

[mjocanada]

Thanks everyone for your input

ducpainter - the pressure pin I'm referring to is the circular clip that mickb mentioned, I guess needle nose pliers will do the trick.

For the chain-side of the swingarm, do I need to remove the circular pin and use a socket to hold that to loosen and tighten the other side? Sorry if it's a dumb question but I'm used to regular swingarms.

46mm on the open side and 41mm on the chain side?

[mickb]

You don't need to touch anything on the chain side, just use the 46mm socket on the open side, and the wheel comes right off.

[mattc7]

I just remove wheel side nut.  When reinstalling wheel, make sure the pins on the hub lineup with the holes on the wheel. 

When you get the wheel off you will understand.   

I've seen people forget this. So just giving a friendly reminder

[MonsterRider]

I was just trying to do this on the weekend but the wheel nut was so over torqued that I had to go down to my local shop and have them impact drive the bloody thing off.  I had tried one breaker bar, went and bought another one. 
Even tried using my jack handle as a snipe with no luck.
Was going to go home and try again but decided to go for a ride instead.
This may be obvious but when tightening the wheel nut and trying to line up the holes for the circlip keep tightening to achieve alignment. Never loosen the nut to get it lined up.

[ducpainter]

Thanks everyone for your input

ducpainter - the pressure pin I'm referring to is the circular clip that mickb mentioned, I guess needle nose pliers will do the trick.

For the chain-side of the swingarm, do I need to remove the circular pin and use a socket to hold that to loosen and tighten the other side? Sorry if it's a dumb question but I'm used to regular swingarms.

46mm on the open side and 41mm on the chain side?

The circlip removes fairly easily. When reinstalling the bent tip points  out. Most people safety wire or ziptie the looped ends so it can't fall off.

Yes the 46 is the wheel side, and it's not necessary to touch the chain side to remove the wheel, but it should be checked periodically. What better time than when you're in the general vicinity doing service?

[mjocanada]

I just wanted to thank everyone for their input and help, went out today and picked up a 46mm socket and installed the carbon fiber rear hugger. 

The single sided swingarm is quite an engineering design, the most difficult part was removing the nut. I tried it with just a breaker bar at first and then gave up after a couple attempts, its quite difficult to hold the breaker bar and the rear brake at the same time and try to do that initial break. I resorted to my electric impact gun which took the nut off within seconds.

Now I understand about lining up the hole in the nut by torqueing it tight, I used a small zip tie to hold the circlip together as an extra precaution.

Cheers

[booger]

You need to remove the circlip, needle-nose pliers will do it. I then used a torque wrench with a 46mm socket, with a friend stepping on the rear brake pedal.

I'm a complete amateur...

Just FYI to everyone here, never ever use a torque wrench to loosen anything. Torque wrenches are meant to tighten or torque a particular fastener, not to loosen. Doing so may damage the calibration. A torque wrench does not amplify applied torque. A torque wrench merely tells you when you have tightened a particular nut or bolt to specified torque. At that point you are supposed to stop torquing.

If you need to remove a really tight fastener the proper way is with some penetrant and a breaker bar. A cheater pipe over the handle of a standard ratchet can be used in a pinch to increase leverage, but you better be sure the ratchet handle can take it. Impact tools are handy, but not in everyone's garage.

[mickb]

My bad 

thanks Bergdoerfer 

[booger]

^ No prob, just trying to help.

Another thing to consider is greasing the fine-pitch threads on the axle, and a thin smear on the back of the wheel nut. Not too much, just enough to make it a little slick. Doing so keeps the threads from galling, increases torque accuracy, and makes removal that much easier. Worrying about the nut coming off is a non-issue. Proper torque, the fine thread pitch, and the locking circlip work in concert to prevent that.

[R0CKETMAN]

Although late to the thread.....I cut down an allen and although a time consuming was able to do it without wheel removal.

[Amlethae]

How do you keep the wheel from moving enough to torque it down to spec?