Battery/regulator/generator issues.

[stopintime]

My one year old battery doesn't reach full charge after 20 hours on an Acumate 0.6A charger/maintainer.

New battery - charges and starts the bike well.

One week later - weaker battery, but still grows upon charging.

I suspect bad charging while on the bike.....
Voltmeter on the battery at ~2.000 revs shows only a little over 11 volts.
Connect a new regulator - nothing changes.

Is it a good idea to let the shop install a new stator?

[ducatiz]

try a different charger.  optimal charge isn't at 0.6A. that's a trickle charge rate.

either at 2A or at 5 or 6A depending on the battery spec

i have a microprocessor charger that is 2/6/10 with automatic stepdown.  usually i start the charge at 6A and after a few hours it automatically drops to 3 and then 2 and then floats.

[stopintime]

The box says "automatic 4 stage charging - does that help?

I noticed that, when charging the new battery, it went from charging to maintaining (yellow to green light) in two hours.
From that I assumed it was charging as expected.
Maybe not strong enough when I start at 11 volts?

Link to your charger? Works well for AGM batteries?

[ducatiz]

http://www.invertersrus.com/vec1087b.html

works well for AGM batteries.

sounds like you might have a bad cel if it is jumping that quickly.  maybe pick up a load tester for the battery too:

http://www.harborfreight.com/50-amp-6-volt-12-volt-battery-load-tester-93784.html

[stopintime]

What does a load tester do, that a voltmeter doesn't?

[ducatiz]

What does a load tester do, that a voltmeter doesn't?

it puts a load on the battery to see how it recovers, such as a battery would under load from a starter.. basically simulates a starter cycle.

[errazor]

Maybe your alarm is drawing too much current?

[stopintime]

Maybe your alarm is drawing too much current?

It has only been a problem during the season's first weeks, when my bike is not in frequent use.
Then I should have had the bike on a charger, but I have no access to an outlet (and too lazy to disconnect and bring it inside)

, but I really don't think this is the root of my issues, which I assume comes down to the fact (?) that my bike doesn't charge itself.

[errazor]

You can check that you have AC volt between all the three yellow stator lines.

[Speeddog]

You can check that you have AC volt between all the three yellow stator lines.

Yes, check for AC voltage with the bike running.

I've seen upwards of 90 VAC at 4k rpm or so, so use some care....

[ducatiz]

Yes, check for AC voltage with the bike running.

I've seen upwards of 90 VAC at 4k rpm or so, so use some care....

90V AC at 1A would feel like a small needle.

[stopintime]

You can check that you have AC volt between all the three yellow stator lines.

No I can't - no equipment or skills  

I think it was done, or attempted, at the shop today.

[Speeddog]

90V AC at 1A would feel like a small needle.

And 60 mA of 110 AC can cause fibrillation.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_shock

[beethoven]

No I can't - no equipment or skills 

I think it was done, or attempted, at the shop today.

Honestly it isnt that hard. Im no electrical expert but had to check mine. Just follow the 3 yellow wires back to the first connector and disconnect Then use a simple (low cost) multimeter set for AC Voltage across two of the three wires at a time. Voltage when running at say 4000 rpm should be uniform for all three readings and above 50v. Get a mate to help if necessary for your own piece of mind. Stators are very reliable so dont change stator unless necessary

[ducatiz]

And 60 mA of 110 AC can cause fibrillation.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_shock

sure, applied directly to the chest.  but thru the hand, you'll barely feel it.