36k - thank you

[Privateer]

I decided I was going to tackle most if not all of my 36k service items myself.

First and foremost thank you DMF for being an indefatigable resource for every question from 'what's the spark plug gap?' to 'how do I break a chain?' to 'what's size allen for the oil screen?'  (note to noobs:  search is your friend).

Second, I ordered most of my parts through CA Cycleworks.  Everything went flawlessly except for when I ordered a 43T rear sprocket in error.  Completely my mistake, but Candice and Cycleworks was very quick to resolve it with me.  Sure it cost me some postage, but whatever.  If that's the cost of the lesson, I'll take it.

Third, thank you again to CA Cycleworks and Ducatitech.com for all the videos that guided me through the chain r/r and the belt r/r.  I had the opportunity to watch Stu replace the belts on my 12k, but it was so long ago and I was so overwhelmed I wasn't sure I could remember it.  Video walked me right through it.  I think it took me longer to remove the belt covers than do the belts.

I have a few more things to complete myself (air & fuel filter) but I did the plugs and belts this morning, buttoned everything back up and boom, bike started right back up. 


see you all on the road.

[rideserotta]

Nice! I changed my oil today for the first time. (6k miles, bought the bike with 3k). I've changed out the front turn signals to clear minis, painted my belt and sprocket covers black, and painted the "coffins" black. I hope to have the courage to do the belts the next time (I paid to have them changed when I bought the bike) as well as other maintenance items down the road. I agree about the help on this forum. Couldn't do anything without it. I also appreciate all the recs for gear. This is a great place for learning.

[ab]

Nice.

Only thing I know to do is my oil .

Now that she is old, maybe I should learn despite being horrible in anything mechanical n not having courage to trust myself.

Reading posts like this is encouraging.

Things to learn
Adjust chain. (easy on my triumph but can't on monster)
Change chain
Bleed brakes
Change brake pads

[Privateer]

Nice.

Only thing I know to do is my oil .

Now that she is old, maybe I should learn despite being horrible in anything mechanical n not having courage to trust myself.

Reading posts like this is encouraging.

Things to learn
Adjust chain. (easy on my triumph but can't on monster)
Change chain
Bleed brakes
Change brake pads

i was the same when i got my bike.  i consider myself pretty handy, but not a master by any means.

if I could learn to do it, so can you.  Mostly it's a matter of having the right tools.  everything else is either in a book or online.

[csorin]

Best resources:

Ca Cycleworks Youtube Channel:
http://www.youtube.com/user/cacycleworksdotcom

Desmotimes Manual:
http://www.desmotimes.com/

Ducati OEM Workshop Manual (best $5 I've spent on my Ducati):
http://duc.nu/manuals/

This forum

With these four resources you should be able to tackle any and all routine maintenance.  You'll also gain a massive amount of knowledge in the operation of your motorcycle, allowing you to intelligently communicate with a mechanic if the need arises.  Get yourself a nice socket set, some allen wrenches, a torque wrench, and a rear wheel stand.  You'll be rockin' and rollin' in no time.

[Slide Panda]

Yep. Similar tale here - I've always been handy, but this and the previous iteration have always been great resources as I've gotten more DIY.

Most recently I:
Replaced the chain and sprocket set
Checked and adjusted the valves
Replaced the belts
Disassembled the rear suspension

I definitely watched Chris' valve a belt videos. 

[Monster Dave]

Cool!


I just rolled over the big 30,000 mark today!

[RBX QB]

I'm braver now that I have a second ride for when my Duc is in repair... so I decided to tackle the valves and belts myself at the 24k service. Over 22k now, and the second bike is getting more seat time, so will be a couple months before I open the Duc up.

I'll definitely be searching the DMF when time comes.

[Loyalizer]

I'm inspired by your courage and success...

You should post pics of all the tools you used, I would be most appreciative...

[Cloner]

I'm inspired by your courage and success...

You should post pics of all the tools you used, I would be most appreciative...

For a two-valve belt change you don't NEED any specialized tools unless you want to adjust tension by frequency rather than "feel".  If you're OK with feel, you can use allen keys to adjust tension.  I know it sounds cheesy, but before the frequency method was adopted it was the most common method I saw employed.  Heck, I personally used it from the late '90s (when I bought my first Ducati) until last year when Stuart and I bought a frequency analyzer.  Basically, you'll want 4, 5, and 6mm hex keys.  You'll use them as feeler gauges between the belt and the tensioning pulley.  WIth tension set correctly, the 4mm should slip through easily.  The 5mm should drag, but slip through.  The 6mm should require some serious effort to force through.  If you have a frequency analyzer (or an iphone app, or a computer program and a cheap microphone a-la Chris Kelly's instructions) you'll want to shoot for 110 Hz +/- 5 Hz plucking the long strand of the belt.  If you want to spend money on a specialized belt frequency analyzer you can buy one at Moto Reva (like we did) for a little over $300.

For valve adjustments on a two-valver, you also NEED no specialized tools.  It's nice to have a blunted screwdriver (or something cupped similar to the factory tool...you can see a drawing of it in your bike's parts manual) to compress the closing follower against its spring when measuring loaded (versus unloaded) lash, but that's about it....and you only need that if you're worried about slipping and gouging a valve seal (which is a possibility).  It's nice to have a magnet, and an earplug to plug the oil gallery that goes back down to the sump from the vertical head (in case you slip and drop a half ring....you don't want that flailing around inside your engine...but don't leave that earplug in there when your done FERGOODNESSSAKES), and you'll need a nice set of feeler gauges that goes down to .001" or .0015" (it's nice to have two sets for four valvers so you can load the closer whilst measuring the opener).  All common hand tools!

You can get "fancy" and use the Ducati engine turning tool in lieu of a rear stand (you can turn the engine by putting the bike in gear and turning the rear wheel.....it's easier with the spark plugs out), or other factory tools, but they're just not required for most maintenance on older two-valvers.  Some specialized tools are required for other tasks, however. 

You might need a pin wrench to clean and relubricate your steering head bearings (older bikes use a hex, newer ones us a pin wrench where pins fit into holes in the steering stem nut). 

Later Ohlins forks need a larger pin wrench to remove the fork caps for oil changes and seal maintenance.  You might need a seal driver if you intend to do your own fork maintenance, as well as a fork oil level tool and a damper rod holder and a damper rod bleeder (depending on the type of forks you have). 

If you have a SSS Monster or non-1098/848 superbike, you'll want a 46mm socket to remove the rear wheel and a 41 mm socket to remove the hub for sprocket changes.  You'll want a 14mm allen for the prefilter screen if you have a bike that requires one. 

If you intend to torque your own head bolts you'll need a torque wrench adapter for that. 

Oh.....and you'll want a reliable torque wrench.  The beam type are inexpensive and quite reliable, but the micrometer types and digitals are a bit easier to use. 

You might also want to invest in a Mityvac tool for brake bleeding.  It's also great for brake and clutch fluid changes....just suck out the old fluid from the bleeder whilst you have an assistant pour new fluid into the reservoir....suck until you get clear fluid.

Again, if you have a SSS model you'll want the spanner to make chain adjustments, too.  There's one in your tool kit (typically) if you want to use it, but some of the aftermarket ones are longer and more robust.

What am I missing folks.  I'm sure I'm forgetting others in my "off the top of your head" tools list.

[Artful]

Things to learn
Adjust chain. (easy on my triumph but can't on monster)
Change chain
Bleed brakes
Change brake pads

1. 10 minutes, adjustable wrench and socket set
2. 30 minutes, chainbreaker, open end wrench if you use the EK screw type rivet, chain tool if you don't.
3. 15 minutes, open end wrench, vinyl tube, old beer bottle
4. 10 minutes, needle nose pliers

You can do eeeet.

[thought]

For a two-valve belt change you don't NEED any specialized tools unless you want to adjust tension by frequency rather than "feel".  If you're OK with feel, you can use allen keys to adjust tension.  I know it sounds cheesy, but before the frequency method was adopted it was the most common method I saw employed.  Heck, I personally used it from the late '90s (when I bought my first Ducati) until last year when Stuart and I bought a frequency analyzer.  Basically, you'll want 4, 5, and 6mm hex keys.  You'll use them as feeler gauges between the belt and the tensioning pulley.  WIth tension set correctly, the 4mm should slip through easily.  The 5mm should drag, but slip through.  The 6mm should require some serious effort to force through.  If you have a frequency analyzer (or an iphone app, or a computer program and a cheap microphone a-la Chris Kelly's instructions) you'll want to shoot for 110 Hz +/- 5 Hz plucking the long strand of the belt.  If you want to spend money on a specialized belt frequency analyzer you can buy one at Moto Reva (like we did) for a little over $300.

someone recently posted that there is now a iphone app that will test the frequency for you... i think it was around $19 or something.

the app store is really the only reason to get a iphone... you literally have a app for virtually anything you can imagine.

found the link:

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=48163.0

[ducpainter]

For a two-valve belt change you don't NEED any specialized tools unless you want to adjust tension by frequency rather than "feel".  If you're OK with feel, you can use allen keys to adjust tension.  I know it sounds cheesy, but before the frequency method was adopted it was the most common method I saw employed.  Heck, I personally used it from the late '90s (when I bought my first Ducati) until last year when Stuart and I bought a frequency analyzer.  Basically, you'll want 4, 5, and 6mm hex keys.  You'll use them as feeler gauges between the belt and the tensioning pulley.  WIth tension set correctly, the 4mm should slip through easily.  The 5mm should drag, but slip through.  The 6mm should require some serious effort to force through.  If you have a frequency analyzer (or an iphone app, or a computer program and a cheap microphone a-la Chris Kelly's instructions) you'll want to shoot for 110 Hz +/- 5 Hz plucking the long strand of the belt.  If you want to spend money on a specialized belt frequency analyzer you can buy one at Moto Reva (like we did) for a little over $300.

For valve adjustments on a two-valver, you also NEED no specialized tools.  It's nice to have a blunted screwdriver (or something cupped similar to the factory tool...you can see a drawing of it in your bike's parts manual) to compress the closing follower against its spring when measuring loaded (versus unloaded) lash, but that's about it....and you only need that if you're worried about slipping and gouging a valve seal (which is a possibility).  It's nice to have a magnet, and an earplug to plug the oil gallery that goes back down to the sump from the vertical head (in case you slip and drop a half ring....you don't want that flailing around inside your engine...but don't leave that earplug in there when your done FERGOODNESSSAKES), and you'll need a nice set of feeler gauges that goes down to .001" or .0015" (it's nice to have two sets for four valvers so you can load the closer whilst measuring the opener).  All common hand tools!

You can get "fancy" and use the Ducati engine turning tool in lieu of a rear stand (you can turn the engine by putting the bike in gear and turning the rear wheel.....it's easier with the spark plugs out), or other factory tools, but they're just not required for most maintenance on older two-valvers.  Some specialized tools are required for other tasks, however. 

You might need a pin wrench to clean and relubricate your steering head bearings (older bikes use a hex, newer ones us a pin wrench where pins fit into holes in the steering stem nut). 

Later Ohlins forks need a larger pin wrench to remove the fork caps for oil changes and seal maintenance.  You might need a seal driver if you intend to do your own fork maintenance, as well as a fork oil level tool and a damper rod holder and a damper rod bleeder (depending on the type of forks you have). 

If you have a SSS Monster or non-1098/848 superbike, you'll want a 46mm socket to remove the rear wheel and a 41 mm socket to remove the hub for sprocket changes.  You'll want a 14mm allen for the prefilter screen if you have a bike that requires one. 

If you intend to torque your own head bolts you'll need a torque wrench adapter for that. 

Oh.....and you'll want a reliable torque wrench.  The beam type are inexpensive and quite reliable, but the micrometer types and digitals are a bit easier to use. 

You might also want to invest in a Mityvac tool for brake bleeding.  It's also great for brake and clutch fluid changes....just suck out the old fluid from the bleeder whilst you have an assistant pour new fluid into the reservoir....suck until you get clear fluid.

Again, if you have a SSS model you'll want the spanner to make chain adjustments, too.  There's one in your tool kit (typically) if you want to use it, but some of the aftermarket ones are longer and more robust.

What am I missing folks.  I'm sure I'm forgetting others in my "off the top of your head" tools list.

This is all true.

I would caution those of you that use the wheel to rotate the motor that it is possible to bend a valve using that method if you check your work with the belts back on and you messed it up.

With a crank turning tool you lose all the mechanical advantage of the transmission and will feel if a valve comes up against a piston before you do any damage.

[Outlaw1100]

You guys are forgetting the most important tools in any garage mechanic's arsenal...a case of beer and a wife willing to make a nice lunch...I find that to be the best set of tools in which to attract buddies to help with the work.   

+1 on the good torque wrench.  You can get away with guessing torque on the Japanese bikes, but for some reason...the Italian bikes need to be torqued correctly or there will be problems.

Mike B

[Artful]

The fasteners are made out of silly putty, they require a good torque wrench and quality hex bits.