Bolt removal. Need help.

[Dieter]

This bolt is bent. I need to remove it. Please explain how. Even better, please also explain what kind of bolt it is so I can replace it. Thank you.

[booger]

It's an exhaust flange stud. Remove it by fitting two nuts tightened against one another, and turning the nut closest to the cylinder head counterclockwise per usual.

That stud looks fine to me. I don't see how it's bent, but whatever. If it's only slightly bent it's likely OK to use as is just as long as the pipe will fit up and the threads are still good.

Use copper antisieze upon fitting the new one.

BTW you must order a new one from Ducati by the correct part number. Get a parts manual from the Ducati website and look it up therein.

[bikepilot]

^ Its a stud, definitely replace with the correct one.  Two nuts will usually work, if you want to be fancy you can use a stud remover - they generally work very nicely. (looks like a socket with three little almost-round rollers in there).

[Cloner]

Agree with the others.  If the threads are a little buggered you can use a die to clean up the threads without removing the stud from the head.  I always use antisieze on exhaust bolts/nuts, too, for what that's worth.

Is it bent to the point that it doesn't bind the exhaust header flange to the head correctly?  If not, I wouldn't worry about it.

[Dieter]

It's actually the other stud. I just didn't feel like taking another picture. I've tried putting the two bolts on, tightening and wrenching counter clockwise on the bolt nearest to the motor. Both bolts just rotate together. I feel as if I'm doing something wrong...
Used wd40 and spoke with people at home depot, auto zone and crappy local moto dealership. All suggested drilling/glueing, which seems totally wrong.
I'm...tired. I'm trying to install brand new boomtubes and this stud is the one thing standing in my way. I offer my soul to the first person who can remove this stud. I live in Riverside, ca. Thank you.

[Artful]

First WD-40 is ok for what you're doing, but PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench are actually made for it. Soak the stud in PB overnight, spraying it every hour LIBERALLY. For the double nut method, tighten the two nuts together before wrenching on the inner one. Next hit it with MAP gas then take a stab at it if it doesn't come free. Give it a few good raps with a hammer while it's hot, that'll help break the hold. Lastly invest in a decent set of stud pulling cam sockets. They're not cheap, but trust me, whether you like it or not you'll use them again.

[booger]

First WD-40 is ok for what you're doing, but PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench are actually made for it. Soak the stud in PB overnight, spraying it every hour LIBERALLY. For the double nut method, tighten the two nuts together before wrenching on the inner one. Next hit it with MAP gas then take a stab at it if it doesn't come free. Give it a few good raps with a hammer while it's hot, that'll help break the hold. Lastly invest in a decent set of stud pulling cam sockets. They're not cheap, but trust me, whether you like it or not you'll use them again.

What he said. I forgot to tell you to use a penetrating oil liberally (Kroil actually is the best, but pricey and hard to find) and to heat the stud & whack it a couple times. By all means tighten the two nuts together before you try to loosen. If the nuts still turn together try using three, four, etc. At some point they will stop turning together.

It's not particle physics, just keep at it and it will loosen.

[Artful]

Except for VW turbo studs. Those require particle physics.

[battlecry]

If you can't find Kroil, you can make a good substitute with a mixture of ATF and acetone.

[Dieter]

Bought the PB blaster and have been spraying periodically. They all just rotate together. Here's what I have right now. I still feel as if I'm missing something here...

[Ddan]

Are you counter rotating the nuts together?  Jamb them together as tight as you can, and you may have better luck with plain steel nuts instead of what you are using.  Use a torch and get the stud cherry red and it should back out.  Once it starts moving, if it's really dry you'll want to work it back and forth, with more PB blaster as you go trying to work the lube down into the threads.  it should come.

[The Mad King Pepe']

If I'm not wrong those studs are steel, so you should be able to (gently) bend it back so the flange will fit.

[Howie]

If I'm not wrong those studs are steel, so you should be able to (gently) bend it back so the flange will fit.

Might work, but even the slim possibility of cracking the aluminum it is in would be enough to stop me.  Dan has the idea, double steel nut (they will tighten against each other better and heat if needed.  A stud extractor would be even better since there will be an increase in surface area.  As bergdoerfer said before, but it was a while ago, turn the nut closest to the engine.

Stud extractors:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=stud+extractor

And look what I found:
How to remove a stud

[Lieutenant Dan]

Remove it by fitting two nuts tightened against one another, and turning the nut closest to the cylinder head counterclockwise per usual.

I just tried this.   One of the coolest things I've ever seen...

[SpikeC]

 If it were mine I would use a brass drift and lightly tap on the stud until it straightened enough to fit the flange on. Gently bending it is better than using a lot of force if possible, moving it a little at a time allows the metal structure to relax instead of break.
So how do you suppose it became bent in the first place?