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Author Topic: Bike shudders when taking off  (Read 10188 times)
d3vi@nt
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« on: June 11, 2011, 09:42:51 AM »

I'm a totally stoked owner of a new-to-me M695. I've ridden other bikes and haven't had problems taking off, but this bike is challenging me. Frequently when I take of from a dead stop, the bike kind of clunks and bucks a little, like I'm not giving it enough gas. But if I give it more gas, I feel like I'll be riding over the vehicle in front of me. I no doubt need to work on my technique, but am curious if anyone else has experienced this and if it's "normal". The clutch is set so it disengages at the last 1/2" of travel, which may be part of the "issue" -seems to require a lot of finesse to modulate (for me anyway).  Oddly, I don't have any problems smoothly shifting up or downshifting, just first-gear take-offs.

Would clutch adjustment and/or a 14T front sprocket remedy this, or is it totally normal and I just need to focus more on technique?
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« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2011, 10:21:05 AM »

Technique and 14T sprocket, I'd say.  You don't need the 14T, but I'm a fan of them.    

What you're describing *sounds* normal.  Course, there could be something else going on, but that sounds about right.  You're right that it feels different than other bikes.  The stock gearing is so tall that you've really got to slip the clutch, and rev it a bit at slow speeds.  It's ok with a quicker take-off, but if you're leaving a dead stop at a normal pace, it takes a bit of getting get used to to avoid bogging it.  some people also find that an adjustable clutch lever helps them modulate the clutch.

What are your revs when it shudders?  3k or so?

Btw, congrats on your new ride.  waytogo
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« Reply #2 on: June 11, 2011, 10:59:09 AM »

Everyone I know who has tried a ducati after riding other bikes complains of this issue.  It's normal, you just need to slip the clutch more.  The engine really isn't happy below 4krpm.
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« Reply #3 on: June 11, 2011, 03:50:53 PM »

Thanks for the feedback. I'll have to go in search of an empty parking lot and work with it. So it's also normal for the clutch to disengage in only the last 1/2" of travel? Seems if it had a slightly wider range I would have more to work with. I'll look into the adjustable clutch lever -I'm not very familiar with them.
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« Reply #4 on: June 12, 2011, 05:22:09 AM »

Yup, the clutch disengagement is normal too. 
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« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2011, 06:00:22 AM »

I'd head to a quiet car park, or somewhere open you can ride around, and practice riding as slow as you can; both in a straight line and in circles/figure 8's. Might sound boring, but it will teach you a lot about the clutch and help your riding in traffic as well. Just be careful you don't drop the new Monster!

Tom
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d3vi@nt
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« Reply #6 on: June 12, 2011, 05:47:41 PM »

What are your revs when it shudders?  3k or so?

I'd say right around 3k, and more on the low side than the high side.

From all the feedback, clearly the bike is as it should be and I need to work on my technique. I may slap on a 14T sprocket just to see what it's like.

I'm off for some quality parking lot time.  Thanks again for all the feedback.
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« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2011, 07:27:45 AM »

14t and some clutch finesse will help a lot.  Also, the  cars are just slow, that's why you feel like you will run them over after a good launch  bang head.  These twins do not have the smooth, electric motor torque  of the inline 3's and 4's, just part of the character of the bike.
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« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2011, 11:38:32 AM »

Frequently when I take of from a dead stop, the bike kind of clunks and bucks a little, like I'm not giving it enough gas.

I'm having the same issue with my bike, new to me as of yesterday an 07 s4r bought from a local dealer that went through the bike and serviced it.  I'm use to a kawasaki with a wet clutch that feathers much differently than the monster and after an hour or so of riding the monster it was clear to me that it was me and not the bike.  Between 2 and 3K from a dead stop the bike will buck if I didn't feather right with slightly more throttle than I thought I needed.  Practicing tight circles and figure eights helped me understand it was me and not the bike while helping me get a handle on clutch control.  This bike and the technique needed is much different than the kawasaki.

What will a 14T sprocket do?
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« Reply #9 on: September 18, 2011, 12:50:40 PM »

What will a 14T sprocket do?

Slightly easier take off from a stop, slightly higher revs at low speeds (and all other speeds, for that matter).

Most Ducatis are geared ridiculously tall from the factory. Going to a 14t front sprocket helps mitigate this while keeping the original chain. I've heard a lot of people suggest going back to the 15t front and a larger rear when changing sprockets and chain later on.
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« Reply #10 on: September 19, 2011, 07:45:04 PM »

Slightly easier take off from a stop, slightly higher revs at low speeds (and all other speeds, for that matter).

That sounds like it might help me as well because initially I'm having "taking off" issues but again I think I need to work on my timing too.  I can definitely feel the tall gearing even as a new duc rider, maybe I should look into a 14T
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« Reply #11 on: September 21, 2011, 11:40:47 AM »

I'd say right around 3k, and more on the low side than the high side.

RPMs too low....give it more gas.

Try riding up a slight incline at 3K and it will shudder then, too...

You can get around the gearing (15 vs 14 T) by slipping the clutch.  If you spend a lot of time in traffic/below 25 mph, go with the 14T.  If you spend a lot of time riding at a brisker pace (>35-40 mph) stick with the 15T.
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dk1six
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« Reply #12 on: September 21, 2011, 01:05:38 PM »

I ordered a 14T today but I'm also wondering what happens to the gearing at the other end, say at cruising or highway speed. 
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« Reply #13 on: September 21, 2011, 01:11:39 PM »

Thanks for the feedback. I'll have to go in search of an empty parking lot and work with it. So it's also normal for the clutch to disengage in only the last 1/2" of travel? Seems if it had a slightly wider range I would have more to work with. I'll look into the adjustable clutch lever -I'm not very familiar with them.

That's exactly how a 695 works. The clutch engages right before it hits the end of its travel. Go out and get an adjustable lever, that will allow you to dial it in to your preference.
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« Reply #14 on: September 22, 2011, 11:41:09 AM »

Couple things, it takes time to get used to the clutch.  You can get an aftermarket slave cylinder which would help make it engage more evenly.

Also does the bike have the Termi/DP ECU kit?  I found the aftermarket ECU made the bike run a lot smoother.
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