whick forks are SBK ?????

[jerryz]

whick forks are SBK ??
i am bidding for several forks on Ebay but I really need to be sure which ducati models have the decent Showa SBK forks with full rebound rods and not the crummy S4 type forks which i have now ....is it safe to assume that 996, 998,999, 749 have the SBK type fork??
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MONSTERMAN

[ducpainter]

whick forks are SBK ??
<snip> ....is it safe to assume that 996, 998,999, 749 have the SBK type fork??
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MONSTERMAN

They are all superbikes. 

They might have different caliper set ups.

[Speeddog]

AFAIK, the 748, 996 and 998 are going to have the proper offset in the fork lowers to fit with your S4 calipers and 10mm offset rotors.
Get ones with the TiN (gold colored) plating on the sliders.

749 and 999 have more offset in the fork lowers, as the rotors on those bikes are 15mm offset.
There are 5mm spacers available so you can use your rotors with 749/999 forks, but I'm guessing that's aggro you don't need.

[Raux]

the 748/998 R had the 15mm offset so be careful

[jerryz]

so avoid the r models unless I want to mess with spacers,,,,,might not be a big problem easy to make spacers up

the other problem is caliper mount spacing some are 40mm and other 65mm, my S4 has the 65mm

and of course iwill have to machine top yoke from 52 to 54mm if it has enough meat in it and shim bottom yoke 1mm , nothing is easy   aaarrrrrrggghhhh!!!!!!

[Artful]

53mm actually

I'm mid process on this, couple important notes.

- Go with 748/996/998 forks, it's the easier conversion
- Make sure you grab ones with 65 caliper bolt spacing
- Aftermarket top triples are available to avoid getting your stocker machined
- Beer cans are .5mm aluminum and make wonderful shims. Good brands make the bike go faster
- If you have traditional bars you're going to have to go with clip-ons or risers to clear the adjusters

[jerryz]

53mm actually

I'm mid process on this, couple important notes.

- Go with 748/996/998 forks, it's the easier conversion
- Make sure you grab ones with 65 caliper bolt spacing
- Aftermarket top triples are available to avoid getting your stocker machined
- Beer cans are .5mm aluminum and make wonderful shims. Good brands make the bike go faster
- If you have traditional bars you're going to have to go with clip-ons or risers to clear the adjusters

i have a set of nice japanese yoshimura aftermarket yokes with risers for flat bars  already that clear the adjusters on standard S4  forks which have been set 15mm thru the yokes as well but there is not much meat in them for machining so may have to get some new ones .Iuf i use beer cans i will use the best beer i can lay my hands on but those brands tend to come in bottles ...''doh''


another idea came to me is to use Ohlins from a 1998-2003 Apprillia RSVR or Tuono as they seem to be 51mm top yoke 56mm bottom yoke  65mm brambo goldline brake caliper mounts , axle size seems same at 25mm ,only the mudguard mounts are different but that could be solved and possibly the brakes need 5mm spacers for offset , It would be a cheap way to get really decent Ohlins front end .

[corey]

they will all work. 749/999 will be more interesting to install.
i have 999 forks on my S2R800 and couldnt be happier.

Due to the tapering/stepping on the fork diameters on the 999, you will have  about 1-1/2 to 2 inches sticking out the top, and you will be dropping the front end slightly (decreasing rake), making the bike a little twitchier. i like it. some may not.

depending on your weight, you'll likely need to get the SBK forks reworked. Fresh seals and oil wouldnt be a bad thing anyway.

[suzyj]

I put 998 forks on mine, with gold TiN fork legs.

The caliper (65mm) bolted up with no issues, and the rotor offset and axle were fine.

All the work was done to the top - the 998 forks are 23mm longer than my original forks, plus adjusters, so wouldn't fit under my handlebars.  Rather than raise the bars, I went with clipons.  Also, as noted previously, machining the top triple to 53mm, plus shimming the lower to 53mm.

Getting all the controls and lines to fit neatly with the zero rise clipons I chose was a challenge.  I ended up removing the screen mounts and moving the front indicators down to clear the brake levers.

Also I replaced the springs in my forks - the originals were way too stiff.

The result is wonderful - well worth the (considerable) work.

Here's a link to some pictures, including my new (999) rear shock and new four-pot brakes:  http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=41414.0

[jerryz]

just measured my S4 forks and they are 50mm top yoke 54mm bottom yoke 65mm caliper spacing and 72.5cm long

am looking at a pair of ohlins off an apprillia that are 51mm top yoke 56mm bottom yoke 65mm caliper spacing and 73.5mm long so i reckon they will be a good option , a minimal amount of machining on the yokes 0.5mm off at top and only 1mm at bottom yoke , 10mm longer is no problem as i have risers already.... the axle is 25mm so should not be an issue only the mudguard/fender is different but thats sortable either with second hand apprillia or a fibreglass replacement

i reckon $650 for a set of decent Ohlins vis a vis messing with showas /revalves etc is a better option as the base fork will be much superior to start and i have wasted 3 years and $400 on the standard crap already

any opinions would be appreciated before i take the leap???
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MONSTERMAN

[MonsterHPD]

If you have decided to swap forks, I would definitely go for the Öhlins set-up. More bling, and ultimately better function, unlimited (well, almost) availability of parts if you want to change springs, modify valving, or whatever. Easy to work on as well, provided you have a few special tools.

If you'd stayed with Showas, the rework with K-tech parts is , in my opinion, just as good as changing to a Duc SBK fork, except it's not visible ...I think your USD400 or so would have covered that modification, more or less  

[jerryz]

If you have decided to swap forks, I would definitely go for the Öhlins set-up. More bling, and ultimately better function, unlimited (well, almost) availability of parts if you want to change springs, modify valving, or whatever. Easy to work on as well, provided you have a few special tools.

If you'd stayed with Showas, the rework with K-tech parts is , in my opinion, just as good as changing to a Duc SBK fork, except it's not visible ...I think your USD400 or so would have covered that modification, more or less  

Ktech revalves still do not cure the rebound rod design problem on S4 forks .
Ktech make excellent products but the base Showa forks on the S4 are a poor design and to be honest i a fed up messing with them i think a fresh start is needed , i have Ohlins on the rear and its very good.

[MonsterHPD]

Well, I'm working on an article about the K-tech modification, will be posted maybe after this weekend, but put briefly: A K-Tech re-valve combined with the a new cartridge rod and maneuvering rod to re-locate the rebound adjuster needle to the inside of the cartridge will solve the design problem. In effect, the Monster Showa will be the same functionally as the SBK fork, but with superior valving.   

[Raux]

I lucked out with my set of 1198 Showa forks. The internals had been changed to a lighter ohlins spring and racetech gold valves.

[jerryz]

Well, I'm working on an article about the K-tech modification, will be posted maybe after this weekend, but put briefly: A K-Tech re-valve combined with the a new cartridge rod and maneuvering rod to re-locate the rebound adjuster needle to the inside of the cartridge will solve the design problem. In effect, the Monster Showa will be the same functionally as the SBK fork, but with superior valving.   

HPD I am sure you are correct about K-tech but the cartridge rod and manouvering rods are not readily available and unless one has access to excellent machining facilities and the exact engineering drawings of what is required it will be a major hassle ...maybe Ktech could make it but then the costs would probably add up to more than a set of decent Ohlins ??