Oops! I let the smoke out.

[Monsterlover]

That thing needs it's own air duct.

[Monsterlover]

You should try a replacement from Rick's Motorsport Electrics, one with MOSFET circuitry. Better at dealing with waste current and don't overheat so badly. The OEMs all fail at some point, not if but when. They are an inferior circuit design, the name of which eludes me.

The "sucky" design?

[Buckethead]

Got a link, berg?

edit: Never mind. Google are my friend. I'll probably upgrade to that over the winter.

[duc996]

Same thing happened to mine,i had someone fabricated a heat sink, solved the problem.Those rectifiers gets really hot from not getting good circulation in there.

[booger]

Same thing happened to mine,i had someone fabricated a heat sink, solved the problem.Those rectifiers gets really hot from not getting good circulation in there.

That too. In my opinion, Ducatis have inadequate electricals. I think all of them should have 1) a Shorai or Ballistic lightweight LFP battery for up to a 6 lb weight reduction (no-brainer) and better cranking with no need for a tender 2) a Motolectric wiring upgrade kit 3) a MOSFET regulator/rectifier such as one from Rick's Motorsport electrics and 4) a custom made heatsink mounting plate from aluminum or one of those TPO relocators, and a proper application of heatsink compound (much like what you would use to mount a CPU to a motherboard).

Think of how much better the bike can be if you don't have to worry about cheesedick electrical components ruining your day, leaving you stranded out in the sticks somewhere. A great many running issues would be solved with electricals that have some modicum of quality. Ducati electricals are shamefully shitty.

It's strange how people will spend big dough for all the wrong mods first, when the thoughtful ones matter the most. If these bikes have anything even remotely borderline flaky in the electricals they won't run right and there's evidence to this effect posted every single day on this forum. 

[Buckethead]

In my opinion, Ducatis have inadequate electricals. I think all of them should have 1) a Shorai or Ballistic lightweight LFP battery for up to a 6 lb weight reduction (no-brainer) and better cranking with no need for a tender 2) a Motolectric wiring upgrade kit 3) a MOSFET regulator/rectifier such as one from Rick's Motorsport electrics and 4) a custom made heatsink mounting plate from aluminum or one of those TPO relocators, and a proper application of heatsink compound (much like what you would use to mount a CPU to a motherboard).

This was pretty much the shopping list I made for myself when this shit blew. I've got some other wiring to do while it's down, and this just gives me the excuse to bolster the entire electrical system.

And by bolster, I mean build it the way it should have come from the factory.

[booger]

This was pretty much the shopping list I made for myself when this shit blew. I've got some other wiring to do while it's down, and this just gives me the excuse to bolster the entire electrical system.

And by bolster, I mean build it the way it should have come from the factory.

you should do a thread on this when you're finished

[Buckethead]

With lots of pretty peeeeeectures.

Planning on it. 

[justinrhenry]

STOP TAKING PICTURES AND SAVE THE DAMN BIKE!!! 

+1

[DRKWNG]

Hmmm...  I think some smoke might have tried to escape from mine yesterday...

[Buckethead]

Used the time off over the winter to resurrect the beast.

New undertray:



Three packages of CPU heat sink compound to thermally couple the R/R to the new undertray, effectively making it a huge heat sink with tons of air flow.



All bolted up:

[WarrenJ]

IIRC, Howley on this forum was looking at designing a better rectifier after experiencing the same problem.  I've fried 2 of them and the bike had fried one before I got it.  At least two of the three were CA Cycleworks.  I put an OEM back in from the dealership and I've been trouble free since.  One of the big indicators on my bike is light output from the headlight varying with rpm - that and battery acid running down the left side of the bike.

[ducpainter]

IIRC, Howley on this forum was looking at designing a better rectifier after experiencing the same problem.  I've fried 2 of them and the bike had fried one before I got it.  At least two of the three were CA Cycleworks.  I put an OEM back in from the dealership and I've been trouble free since.  One of the big indicators on my bike is light output from the headlight varying with rpm - that and battery acid running down the left side of the bike.

I think it was suzyj...not Howley.

[Buckethead]

I put an OEM back in from the dealership and I've been trouble free since. 

This is an OEM unit out of a 695 that was being parted out.

When I get around to upgrading to a Shorai battery, I'll have a bunch of other wiring to do and I'll probably look to upgrade to a FET unit then. The SCR units (OEM) are known to be failure prone, but the prevailing wisdom is that they do better/last longer if you can keep them cool. Thus my heat sink and better air flow design (and prayer).

The electrical system was giving me issues for about a week before the old unit fried itself. Wasn't charging the battery, wouldn't idle, etc.

[Howie]

'01 bike, 62K miles, original regulator (first generation, mounted in front of bike), knocking on wood.  I think your "cooling system" will work.