Blew the fuse for the Battery Tender Lead - Need charging solution

[metroplex]

While trying to start my 696 in 20F weather, I tried different ways to see if it starts easier. I used my Sears car charger, and set it to engine start (50A peak) and apparently it blew the fuse for the Tender lead, which is under the fuel tank. At least that is what I think happened because my Tender won't charge and I can't get a voltage reading via the leads.

Since the weather is going to be fairly cold from this point forward, I was wondering if there is a way to charge the battery easily without using the Tender leads. Once the weather warms up, or perhaps if I brave the cold I can change out that fuse or maybe extend the lead so the fuse can be serviced more easily.

Is it easy to remove the fuel tank? I just need to lift it up enough to change the fuse, do I need to disconnect a lot of hoses/wires?

[stopintime]

Searching 'tank removal' gave, among other threads, this...

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=27980.msg486834#msg486834

[ducatigirl100]

Naaaa !!!  In cold wether I just run beside it to start it   

[ducatigirl100]

But I must say that I use 2 batteries ...just in case ! 

I always put one on the charger and the other in the bike.
+ I have a battery tender that I don't really use.

[polivo]

I pity you.  I just got under my m1100 for the first time. It is an unbelievable pain in the ASS!!!! arrrgh.. Im fairly mechanical, by no strectch of the imagination am i mechcanic worthy. I can follow instructions tho. Theres a youtube video out there on how to get to the battery step by step, guy did a great job documenting the process . It took me about 2 hours to get to the battery, since i didnt know what i was doing... and was being super careful. I suppose, it could probably be done in 30 minutes by someone who has done it a few times. Its not impossible, just alot of little screws, then the hoses, then getting the tank up.. and putiing it all back together again.  PS, when the batteries dead on a 696/796 or 1100.. you can not jump start it, electronic fuel injection needs to prime apparently.. and on a really dead battery.. no fuel is being delivered.   blah!  good luck.

[Howley]

Wow what a pain! I can get to my battery in less than 10 seconds!

[metroplex]

I did change out the Tender lead over the weekend, and replaced it with a custom-made Tender lead that is long enough to reach the under-seat compartment. I also ditched the fused link because it takes up too much room.

The dealer also destroyed my positive terminal cap because they squished everything in place, not giving a care in the world to the plastic cap. I re-routed everything, made my own crimped connections and used new ring terminals. The wiring is 16 AWG, so it can handle 20A and maybe 30A intermittently, no need for a fuse if I am using my 800mA Waterproof Battery Tender.

The dealer also took my fuel tank screw and washer from the front mount, and substituted it for an allen screw and tiny washer. They lost my rear screw, which I noticed and they ordered me a replacement. They also lost 2 of my tank cover screws so they substituted them. This is why I avoid going to the dealership - they all have a tendency to break stuff, take stuff, or forget stuff.

I didn't have to disconnect the fuel lever connector, but I did have to unlatch the O2 sensor wire.

Overall, it wasn't that bad of a job. I wish I had a heated garage or warmer weather, it was hard to do it at 20 degrees because my fingers start to move slower and they get numb - and all because of a fuse that is tucked right under the fuel tank.

[Howie]

If the positive wire on that Tender lead ever shorts to ground with no fuse you will be singing "Great Balls Of Fire" 

[WTSDS]

+1,000,000 for what Howie wrote.

Can the starter solenoid be easily accessed on yer 'bike ?
If so try what works for me - there's two big wires on the solenoid,
one goes to the starter, the other straight to the Pos terminal of the
battery. Slide the rubber cap away and connect the Pos of the charger,
connect the charger Neg to some bare metal.

[metroplex]

I've accidentally shorted car batteries while working near the terminals, and the most that happens is a spark and some metal gets melted. In a perfect world I'd love to have a fuse for that positive Tender lead, but there's just no room to do it cleanly and be able to access that fuse in case it pops. Removing the tank is not hard, but a pain in the butt. As for sparks near the fuel tank, well I don't think it's as big of a problem as the 300F+ engine and red-hot exhaust "manifolds" right underneath the fuel tank.

[Howie]

I've accidentally shorted car batteries while working near the terminals, and the most that happens is a spark and some metal gets melted. In a perfect world I'd love to have a fuse for that positive Tender lead, but there's just no room to do it cleanly and be able to access that fuse in case it pops. Removing the tank is not hard, but a pain in the butt. As for sparks near the fuel tank, well I don't think it's as big of a problem as the 300F+ engine and red-hot exhaust "manifolds" right underneath the fuel tank.

My 45+ years of experience has seen cars turned into piles of ash and personal injury.  When you accidentally touch a terminal it is a moment in time.  If that lead shorts to ground you will have high heat, like try metal glowing red, a hell of a lot hotter than 300⁰F until the battery drains or enough metal melts to open the circuit.

[zooom]

My 45+ years of experience has seen cars turned into piles of ash and personal injury.  When you accidentally touch a terminal it is a moment in time.  If that lead shorts to ground you will have high heat, like try metal glowing red, a hell of a lot hotter than 300⁰F until the battery drains or enough metal melts to open the circuit.

+1...electrical welding type of temps pretty quickly!!!

[metroplex]

The problem is fitting that fuse as close to the terminal as possible. There is very limited room in that spot right under the fuel tank. And if the fuse does pop, I have to remove the fuel tank to change that fuse.

[zooom]

The problem is fitting that fuse as close to the terminal as possible. There is very limited room in that spot right under the fuel tank. And if the fuse does pop, I have to remove the fuel tank to change that fuse.

since you made a custom lead to go back further to under the seat, why not make the inline fuse back in a custom position back under the seat as well?!?!?!...problem solved!....and perhaps that is a new marketing niche for you to make some extra coin by doing a production run of them for all of the bikes that would suffer this fate?!?!?!

[metroplex]

I thought about that, but the inline fuse has to be as close to the positive terminal as possible to prevent the battery from shorting out. The other thing that just came to my mind was to have 2 inline fuses. One 20A fuse at the battery - somehow tucked in place, and another 7.5A or 5A fuse under the seat near the Tender connection.

This 5A fuse would blow faster if you did something wrong at the leads, but the 20A wouldn't blow as quickly preventing/mitigating any need to remove the tank - unless the wire shorted out.