696 - Deleting/Removing Charcoal Evap Canister

[metroplex]

I did some Google searching and forum searching, and there was a lot of discussion about what size bolts to use, what type of hoses, etc...

I downloaded the European parts catalog and Identified the following items that are different:

LH deflector
the 2 screws and 2 gaskets for the intake manifold / tubes
3 hoses
Y-adapter

Can anyone verify that this is it? I plan to order OEM Ducati parts to save confusion on size/fit/quality.

My question is what do I need to remove to gain access to the intake manifold / tubes that contain the nipples? I am planning to lift the fuel tank to fix the battery tender lead (fuse blew) so I figure this might be a good time to ditch the evap canister as well.

Where do I route the new Y-joined hose assembly?

There was some mention of a How-To thread with photographs, but I was unable to find it - I probably used the wrong keywords.

[Raux]

I did a full write up. I'll see if I can find it.

[metroplex]

Was it easy accessing the LH intake manifold nipple/port? I noticed the RH side is accessible with the RH cover removed. I can slip in a socket/extension bar without any problems (so it seems).

But the LH side is very close to the spark plug and fuel tank. It looks like I cannot stick a socket and extension bar due to the frame clearance. How did you remove the nipple and install the bolt?

Also, I removed the tank this afternoon to fix the Tender leads and noticed that I could probably leave my vent tube in-place and just cut and splice in the T with a new hose for the breather tube.

[Raux]

i originally used rubber plugs on the intake nipples. but during the rebuild replaced it with bolts. either not that hard

yes you'll want to T the tubing in front of the tank just make sure you use the longer hose. the other you can pull out (weight savings  )

[metroplex]

It sounds like we use the same style of tubing at the gas tank and the T? So I could probably just cut the existing drain tube, install the T, then route an additional hose from the breather tube into that T and call it a day for that system? Is there any risk to drawing a vacuum in that tank or causing pressure issues?

How did you access the LH nipple/bolt? Did you need to use a U-joint?

[Raux]

It sounds like we use the same style of tubing at the gas tank and the T? So I could probably just cut the existing drain tube, install the T, then route an additional hose from the breather tube into that T and call it a day for that system? Is there any risk to drawing a vacuum in that tank or causing pressure issues?

How did you access the LH nipple/bolt? Did you need to use a U-joint?

the tubes are different sizes so you'll need a small adapter. I bought a tubing connecter kit at pepboys cheap. Had T's, adapters, etc.

small hands

[metroplex]

What tool did you use to remove the LH nipple and to install the bolt? The frame seems to be in the way, as well as the fins on the cylinder heads to use a straight extension bar and socket. I don't see how I can use a box/open-ended wrench either.

Did you use regular blue threadlocker for the threads of the bolts inserted into the intake manifold?

[Raux]

What tool did you use to remove the LH nipple and to install the bolt? The frame seems to be in the way, as well as the fins on the cylinder heads to use a straight extension bar and socket. I don't see how I can use a box/open-ended wrench either.

Did you use regular blue threadlocker for the threads of the bolts inserted into the intake manifold?

like i said, i used the rubber plugs until I had the motor out of the frame.
Maybe go through the top with fuel tank off?
But yes, used regular blue locktite.

[metroplex]

Ah, I didn't read that from your original post. You had the engine out, which will not have that interference. I just had the tank removed over the weekend to re-do the Tender leads, it does not help. If you look at your 696 right now, the LH nipple/bolt is tucked away behind the frame and the fins for the cylinder head. The RH nipple/bolt is accessible once the air deflector is removed, but that is not the case for the LH - unless I am missing something.

So the bigger hose on the fuel tank is for the breather - to allow "fresh air" into the fuel tank as the pump sucks out the fuel, and the smaller hose on the fuel tank is the overflow tube (for excess fuel that gets spilled near the filler)?

[thought]

I did mine with the engine in, though I forget how it did it.  IIRC, I just removed a panel to give me a bit of room and then I could access everything I needed to get it in and out.

I used this instead of loctite blue for the high temp application.  If using loctite, I would use red instead of blue though:

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_High-Temp_Red_RTV_Silicone_Gasket.htm

[metroplex]

The panel covers the RH side. The LH side isn't covered by anything that I can see.

The OEM manual calls for LOCK 2, which translates to something like Loctite 243. I did a Google search and couldn't find an equivalent that was readily available - but a Loctite/Permatex engineer said the blue should be fine?

[Raux]

The panel covers the RH side. The LH side isn't covered by anything that I can see.

The OEM manual calls for LOCK 2, which translates to something like Loctite 243. I did a Google search and couldn't find an equivalent that was readily available - but a Loctite/Permatex engineer said the blue should be fine?

yeah, don't overthink it. blue is fine. just make sure you use a washer to ensure you don't get an air leak.
you'll know if you do if you have a surging or stumbling depending on rpm.

[thought]

I think I might have just used a pair of pliers to wrench out the LH side.  But I do distinctly remember using a driver in there to tighten it back up... I might have slipped in the socket and hand tightened it till I could fit in the driver to tighten it down.  All I can say is that it def can be done, you just might have to get a little creative on how to do it.

[ungeheuer]

Evap canister was never an issue for me, so I'm no help.

But I love how generous so many DMF members are with sharing the benefit of their experience and without ever seeking or expecting a word of thanks.  Good on you Raux and thought 

[Curmudgeon]

Can't be much help either as my dealer removed mine at the first service and told me that he fitted bolts rather than vacuum caps. I'd asked him to make the whole thing reversable and he just snipped the line near the canister. No idea what else he did but it took him only a few minutes and he installed a LH Euro shroud for me. Was only there for 1 1/2 hours total, including oil and filter and a chain adjustment I requested, and half that time was spent on the Ducati computer checking out a cold start complaint I had. http://motowheels.com/i-6921561-ducati-air-deflector-left-side-m696-m1100.html

As for a sealer for the bolts, blue should be fine. I can't imagine those bolts are in a big hurry to back out. If I'd done it myself, I'd have used Hylomar. It worked on hot BMW cases for eons. http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_Hylomar_Universal_Blue_Racing_Formula_Gasket_Dressing_Flange_Sealant.htm