Help - Bike will turn off in the middle and wont start..Immobilizer?Ecu? Fuel/??

[dkramp]

Hi guys Happy New YEAR
I had this issue with my bike recently:
In the middle of the ride the engine stopped and the bike wouldn't start - the immobilizer light wouldn't turn off and shows an error.

Left the bike for a few hours and got the red key, same thing, tried the override procedure, wouldn't work. Eventually had to tow the bike to the shop where they reset the computer and did some trouble shooting so eventually the bike starts now.

In any case today (3 days later) it happened again, same thing - lucky enough after 5 min the key out it started.

Any ideas? Has anyone had similar issues or know what it is. I guess my main question is why the override procedure doesnt work (full throttle with turning on the key) as I would love to have an option to start it if I get stuck again.

Thanks in advance for any advise!

PS Update - eventually got the immobilizer bybass by my mechanic, but after a week of riding happened again twice in 2 day - same thing, the bike would die in the middle of the road (usually at the traffic light in the busiest intersection in New York )  the ECU led light will not turn off, only now the starter will click few times since there is no immobilier, but the engine won't start.
After waiting for 10 min or so - the issue disappears, the yellow light turns off and the bike starts.

My mechanic doesnt know what it is - any ideas guys? Thanks in advance for any feedback

[ducpainter]

Some 620s had gauge issues (internal corrosion) which created immobilizer/starting problems.

[dkramp]

Thanks Ducpainter
Can I just replace the gauges or does it have to be the whole set (gauges, ecu, keys etc)?

[ducpainter]

Thanks Ducpainter
Can I just replace the gauges or does it have to be the whole set (gauges, ecu, keys etc)?

You can have the ecu reflashed and the immobilizer eliminated...search...you'll find sources.

After you can use any gauges you want...factory or aftermarket.

[dkramp]

Got you. Thx
Is there a way to be sure that's the issue is indeed with gauges before spending $500 or so on reflashing the ECU - already spend a couple hundreds in the shop for immobilizer Bypass last week (which seemed to help for a week or so)

[ducpainter]

Got you. Thx
Is there a way to be sure that's the issue is indeed with gauges before spending $500 or so on reflashing the ECU - already spend a couple hundreds in the shop for immobilizer Bypass last week (which seemed to help for a week or so)

I'd pull the gauges apart. If you see internal corrosion that's probably the issue.

ECU reflash for your bike should be $250

[brad black]

if the starter clicks it's a battery or power supply to the starter solenoid issue.  it will either not cank (immobilised) or crank.  clicking is something else.  what's the charging system like?

[dkramp]

So I checked the gauges today (pulled them apart) looks pretty clean and good condition didn't find any corrosion.
Checked the battery condition - great and healthy.
Battery was change less than a year ago.
Don't really know what else to check - the tricky part is that the issue is coming and going, I get stuck on the road but when I bring the bike to the mechanic it runs and starts perfect.

[Howie]

Start with load testing the battery to be sure it is good, then check the charging rate, 13.5-14.5 volts across the battery.  If those check out well, time to check connections.  From your symptoms, start with battery connections and grounds.  With the meter in parallel to (across) the connections while cranking you want less than .2 volts at each connection.

[ducpainter]

if the starter clicks it's a battery or power supply to the starter solenoid issue.  it will either not cank (immobilised) or crank.  clicking is something else.  what's the charging system like?

I agree, but it seems from his description that the immobilizer/ecu is involved.

[dkramp]

I agree, but it seems from his description that the immobilizer/ecu is involved.

Yeah I was hoping that it is not the ECU so I dont have to replace everything (ECU, gauges, keys) , but as I said - we were sure it is the immobilizer issue so my mechanic did a bypass so there is no immobilizer now, however the issue came back after a week or so...

But if it is - does anyone have an idea what will it cost me to replace it? or I guess the right question would be -  how can I not spend too much money replacing it

and once again, thanks for all the replies - VERY HELPFUL

[Raux]

Check your charging system

[Duck-Stew]

+1 to the above.  Also, if you have the immobilizer turned off and want to eliminate the gauges from the equation (for testing purposes), you can disconnect them entirely and try that.

Also, what's the age of your battery?  You could have an internal battery short going on...

[dkramp]

Thanks for all the advise, the battery is less than a year old - I will test the charging system, however how do you explain the bike shutting down in the middle of the ride after few miles of driving with warm engine etc. ? So basically this issue only happens after I ride for a while and not even after a bike has been sitting in a garage for a few days with no charging of a battery...

[Raux]

Thanks for all the advise, the battery is less than a year old - I will test the charging system, however how do you explain the bike shutting down in the middle of the ride after few miles of driving with warm engine etc. ? So basically this issue only happens after I ride for a while and not even after a bike has been sitting in a garage for a few days with no charging of a battery...

bike is running off the battery partially til it dies.
then it gets some of its power back as it's a decent battery.

had a car have the same issue.
eventually it killed the battery then another before the shop figured it was a bad alternator.