Cold start issue resolved on 696

[metroplex]

Speaking of frothing oil, the factory filled oil tended to bubble/foam up in the sight glass when I revved the engine. The fact I could see the oil in the sightglass while the engine is running tells me (now, after the fact) it was overfilled.

Now that I drained the oil to the lower mark, I cannot see any oil in the sight glass when the engine is running.

[DucatiKabul]

Just another reason to not trust others with your Bike/Car oil change, the car I have now had two quarters more than specified by the manufacturer, somebody in the service dept of the dealer was kind enough to damp a couple of cans into the engine not even bothering to check how much is needed, I wonder if they even check what type of engine oil to be used.

[metroplex]

I just wanted to provide an update. I performed cold starts on an intermittent basis, trying to conduct it as cold as possible. I waited a week between starts for the most recent trial run, and it still fired right up. It was 10F in the morning, and warmed up to 18F ambient. My LCD read 22F. I yanked the Tender for a few minutes, opened the fast idle lever, and fired up the engine with 1 push of the button. I'm using 93 octane fuel too.

[Dellikose]

Did you ever get around to see the oil level on the rear stand vs. holding vertical on the ground?

It's great to hear that your problem seems to be solved!

[metroplex]

No, I didn't get a chance to check the oil level with the bike on the stands yet.

[metroplex]

Let us know what you find when you check vertical vs. on stand(s).

I used the Pitbull rear stand today and checked the oil level. I believe this is kosher to use as a way to check the oil level. My oil level ended up being a few mm's above the lowest mark on the sight glass. But like we all know, a few degrees lean toward either side throws off the level by a lot. At least with the sidestand, the bike is vertical. The rear being higher by a few inches didn't seem to cant the level by much.

I also tried some tips recommended by other Ducatistis for using the rear stand by yourself - and it worked like a charm. It took only a few seconds to do, and I was able to inspect and lube my chain. I wish it were this easy to work on my cars.

The only issue I've been encountering is some seepage from the K&N oil filter, which I suspect might be insufficient filter torque or remaining oil from the gasket. The other issue is that I think I overoiled my Ducati Race air filter, so K&N oil is dripping down from the airbox drain hose. The dealer neglected to oil the DP race filter before they installed the kit, so I had been riding around with an unoiled cotton gauze filter.

[Curmudgeon]

Presume you know that engine oil level should be checked with a warm engine, allowing the oil to settle 5 - 10 minutes?

[metroplex]

If you're talking about just today, I checked it cold, as in 20F degrees, left it overnight, etc... But yeah, it's not my first time changing oil in anything. It's just my first engine that was overly sensitive to oil level with respect to cold starts. Heck, even my 4-stroke gasoline generator fires right up even if I overfilled the engine oil.

After seeing how stable the bike was with the rear stand (obviously), I'd recommend using it for oil changes, or at least I plan to do so. Keeping it vertical by hand while checking the level is too cumbersome and subjects the process to many potential sources of error.

[Curmudgeon]

Your level is fine if it's at or just below the upper mark when the oil is hot and then has time to settle. Note the level after your next ride. If will be higher than the reading you observed today with a cold engine.

BTW, no European car or bike responds well to overfilling the oil. It may start OK but that's too much pressure in the crankcase. No idea about American engines or whether they tolerate it.

Next time you change the oil and filter in that bike, do it with a warm engine so that more nasties can drain out and then mostly fill the new oil filter before installing. Then add 1/2 qt / 500 ccs less than recommended. Run the bike several minutes, allow the oil to settle, and then observe the level. Add as needed to bring up to just between the marks. That should give you a level ~ the top mark when the engine is hot.

[metroplex]

My 696 won't start with that much oil in there. The whole point of this thread is to show that the 696 will fire right up in a cold start when the oil level is at the lowest mark or around that point. I've gotten it to start 99.9% with one push of the button even down to 15F ambient, running 93 octane, using the stock electricals and the DP race ECU/Termi exhaust, and the engine isn't even past 600 miles yet.

Go back and read the start of this thread again. Nothing else I did solved the issue except for reducing the oil level. Ducati's promo pics of their bikes also shows this level (right at the lowest mark).

My American cars will fire right up even when I overfill it or go above the FULL line for the oil level dipstick. As for the oil level check when it is cold or warm, the oil level will be the highest when the engine is totally cold since everything drains back down. It doesn't really matter what temperature I drain the oil at, if it has sat there for 6 months everything will have drained down. The only advantage to changing the oil when it is warmed, is that the oil flows faster. This isn't my first time changing engine oil...

I only resurrected this thread because someone asked about checking the oil level using a rear stand, which I did today and noted that it was a lot easier to do so versus manually holding it vertical.

[Dellikose]

I figured that the oil level would be negligible between a stand and completely level.

What I end up doing is doing the change and refill in the rear stand, since it is so convenient. I'll go on a ride, and then check the oil by holding it level and do the fine tuning of the oil level that way.

I appreciate you checking the difference between the two.

[Raux]

i know this sounds stupid. but to prove a point, fill it to the top of the line again and see if it recreates the cold start problem. or did I miss it that you did that again?

[Curmudgeon]

i know this sounds stupid. but to prove a point, fill it to the top of the line again and see if it recreates the cold start problem. or did I miss it that you did that again?

[metroplex]

It'd make more sense for others with cold start issues to try draining the oil and seeing if it fixes the problem on their end. So far I've heard one other person try it with success.

[Raux]

It'd make more sense for others with cold start issues to try draining the oil and seeing if it fixes the problem on their end. So far I've heard one other person try it with success.

well yes and no. going back up on your bike would prove it without a doubt.