Taking off Brake Calipers

[mysticbluex3]

The manual doesn't mention needing to take the front wheel off in order to take off the front brake calipers.  However, when I try to slide the calipers off the rotators, the caliper hits the rim and doesn't have enough room to slide out.  Is there a trick to get them off without removing the wheel?  I have an 09 M696.  Thanks guys!

[zarn02]

Pull the pads first.

[Buckethead]

Both are viable options.

If you push the pads back in, watch the fluid level in your master cylinder. Does bad things to paint if it overflows.

[ducpainter]

Pull the caliper bolts and use the rotor to pry the pistons back into the caliper.

Both are viable options.

If you push the pads back in, watch the fluid level in your master cylinder. Does bad things to paint if it overflows.

Don't take the cap off.

[Speeddog]

Pull the caliper bolts and use the rotor to pry the pistons back into the caliper.
Don't take the cap off.

+1.

You don't have to pry them back very far.

[WetDuc]

The 696 is a tighter fit to remove/install brake calipers than certain other ducs.  Fully retract the pistons  the final bit by wiggling on the rotor as suggested above.

They do clear, but it is very tight.

[ducpainter]

The 696 is a tighter fit to remove/install brake calipers than certain other ducs.  Fully retract the pistons  the final bit by wiggling on the rotor as suggested above.

They do clear, but it is very tight.

How so?

The wheel sizes, the rotor sizes, and the calipers are all similar.

It's tight on all of them.

To the OP...you can't take the wheel off with the calipers in place on any Duc.

[Speeddog]

Radial-mount calipers are a bit worse, due to the banjo-bolt location, especially on the ones that have two lines attached.

But completely do-able with a bit of twist on the caliper to push the pads back.

[ducpainter]

Radial-mount calipers are a bit worse, due to the banjo-bolt location, especially on the ones that have two lines attached.

But completely do-able with a bit of twist on the caliper to push the pads back.

I guess I forgot about those new fangled things. 

[WetDuc]

Radial-mount calipers are a bit worse, due to the banjo-bolt location, especially on the ones that have two lines attached.

But completely do-able with a bit of twist on the caliper to push the pads back.

Yes, this is where the added difficulty comes in. 
But it really is do-able with the pistons fully retracted and some good ole' wiggling.

[Cloner]

Radial-mount calipers are a bit worse, due to the banjo-bolt location, especially on the ones that have two lines attached.

But completely do-able with a bit of twist on the caliper to push the pads back.

Absolutely.  I actually cursed at the first right side front 1098 caliper I pulled.....until I pushed the pads back just a little bit further.  I considered removing the banjo bolt at one point.  Blech.

[Scissors]

Just did this the other day.  What others have said is correct, the inboard pad/piston is what keeps the caliper from clearing and that, combined with the outboard pad/piston, prevents it from rotating.  Just forcefully wiggle it until it clears.

Regarding the fluid, I just wanted to briefly mention that I accidentally got a good deal of brake fluid on my tank cover for over a half hour and there was zero damage to the paint.  I wouldn't chance it again, but I was quite surprised given what people had always said.

[Jason1]

I have always pulled the bolts on the rotors.  that lets them get loose enough to slide off with no problem.  no removing pads or compressing the calipers.  obviously on a front wheel stand to rotate wheel and removing bolts.