Broken engine case at kickstand bolt M696

[WetDuc]

Well...buddyboy managed to break the engine case on the 696 where the kickstand bolt threads in.
Just throwing this up here in hopes that someone maybe has a clever idea of how to fix this. 
I have a TIG welder, but am leery of welding to the engine case with all the sensors it has on it.
JB weld was also suggested but I highly doubt it will hold in such a stressed point. 
Thanks for any help!

[Nottsbiker]

I'm no welder buy if imagine they if you disconnected everything that the electricity could flow through then you'd safe - easy / safe to remove the engine probably a thirds would make it 100% safe.

Chemical metal as we call it won't do that kind of job I do know that much

[monsta]

I'd say minimum pull the engine... at least then you would have good access.
to do properly split the cases, and machine the finished product flat.

[WetDuc]

Ouch, I have not pulled an engine out before...

[Buckethead]

I think JB Weld, a Time-Sert, and adequate curing time and you should be okay.

Mind if I ask how this happened?

[Raux]

I saw this happen to a guy during shipping. the packers put the bike on the kickstand in the crate next to a couch 

insurance totalled the bike.

[Howie]

Hard to tell from the photo, but if the remaining area in the case is deep enough I think Buckethead's idea should work, the JB weld would then be a free form washer.  Some folks think three full threads are enough.  I prefer at least the diameter of the bolt, in other words. if it is an 8 mm. bolt, at least 8 mm. depth, which also happens to be the shortest helicoil available.  Time Serts, IMO, are better but come in longer lengths. 

[Raux]

Hard to tell from the photo, but if the remaining area in the case is deep enough I think Buckethead's idea should work, the JB weld would then be a free form washer.  Some folks think three full threads are enough.  I prefer at least the diameter of the bolt, in other words. if it is an 8 mm. bolt, at least 8 mm. depth, which also happens to be the shortest helicoil available.  Time Serts, IMO, are better but come in longer lengths. 

also there are two length of bolts used on the side stand. maybe use the longer one instead off the short one usually at that location. but be sure to alo use a longer one in the back hole as well.  so don't swap them. get a new longer one

[WetDuc]

Whoa!  A glimmer a hope for JB weld!
I know this is a scary situation, I also have seen insurance total bikes for this reason.
I don't know exactly how the damage occured, but the ole 696 has seen more crash action than either of the other two bikes here.  One day, buddyboy came by and I noticed the 696 was leaned over real far when on the kickstand.  I looked at it and the bolt was completely missing.  We got another bolt of the same size and it did work, but would not stay torqued after a few rides.
Finally one day buddy came by and the bolt and the chunk of case were gone.
I don't usually ride the 696, so I don't have too much more detail than that.
The 696 is in the house for its valve adjust so I've got some time to think about how to repair the case and then to execute the repair.
I do like the idea of very cured JB weld and a Time-sert/heli-coil. 
I would estimate there is about 8mm of depth of threads still there. 

[WetDuc]

also there are two length of bolts used on the side stand. maybe use the longer one instead off the short one usually at that location.

Can you elaborate?  I noticed the stock bolt was short and did not utilize even close to all the threads.  
Also, the other bolted section of the kickstand toward the rear seems to pivot on the swingarm bolt.  On my 696, the kickstand can pivot freely, should it be tight?  I tried to tighten, but the rear kickstand bolt was already very tight.  
I will get a chance to mess with the 696 today and will snap some more pics.
Thanks so much for the input ya'll.

[Raux]

If you look at the parts catalog. you'll see the front and back bolts have different part numbers. get the back one.  When i get home i'll check the tq for the bolts

[Speeddog]

No need to remove the engine or split the cases.
Obviously, that would be the absolute best fix, but that's a *ton* of work.

Weld it up, carefully file it flat to the other bosses, drill and tap for a TimeSert, install TimeSert.

Disconnect the ECU, gauges and battery prior to welding.

I'm pretty sure all of the 696's are the new thinwall cases, lucky it didn't window the case.

[ducpainter]

No need to remove the engine or split the cases.
Obviously, that would be the absolute best fix, but that's a *ton* of work.

Weld it up, carefully file it flat to the other bosses, drill and tap for a TimeSert, install TimeSert.

Disconnect the ECU, gauges and battery prior to welding.

I'm pretty sure all of the 696's are the new thinwall cases, lucky it didn't window the case.

I'm not sure how sensitive the Siemens electronics are...

but on some automotive systems, Saab in particular, it's necessary to remove ecu's from the car as the voltage can back in through any ground.

Worth considering.

[WetDuc]

Aside from disconnecting sensors and completely removing the ECU, are there any other things to worry about when welding on the case?
If not, that may be an option. 

[ducpainter]

Aside from disconnecting sensors and completely removing the ECU, are there any other things to worry about when welding on the case?
If not, that may be an option. 

It's a casting and may have impurities from that process or have oil in it.

Do you have any experience welding cast aluminum?

Preheat will help.