Breaking in a "new" S4R

[Duchess]

So, I just purchased a "new" 2004 S4R. Its been a collector's piece, with only 27 miles in 8 years. Prior to me buying it, it has had
-  all fluids drained, flushed, replaced
- new belts, battery
- new tires

So it is essentially a "showroom" condition bike, even though it is 8 years old

Suggestions for how best to run in ?

 Part of my problem is that the bike is at Commonwealth Motors in Louisville, which is 110 miles of I-71 "slab" from Cincinnati where I live. A friend is taking me down there Saturday to ride it home. I've heard I should vary engine speeds and loads for the breaking period, but I don't know an alternative to I-71 to get back home. Would it be OK to just cruise up the slab ? Maybe vary the engine speed every now and then with a change of gear ?

I can then give it varying loads and speeds for the next 400 miles before it is time to ride the slab back to the dealer for the 600 service.

Duchess

[thought]

It's fine to ride the slab as long as you keep on changing gears to vary the rpm.

[Slide Panda]

Yep - you should have no issue on the slab as long as you take care to shift regularly to vary things. It might make for a of a taxing haul as you'll be shifting a lot and dealing with the resulting throttle/ clutch management a lot.

Also there is a recommended RPM cap diring run in. Though I'm not sure what it is for the water cooled versions. But if it's same same, you stay below 6k until 600 miles and 7500 until the 1000 mile mark.

You might have the dealer install a 14 tooth front sprocket before you get there. That'll let you have a bit more of the bottom end of the RPMs so you can ride with a bit more rev range.

[xsephirot]

I really don't think breaking in is required for any engine since the 90's. I just run it hard. Do a 2nd gear pull up to 6k and let off the throttle and let it drop down to around 2k while in gear without the clutch pulled in. Do that in 3rd gear and 4th (if you can legally on the streets). The main purpose of breaking in is to seat the rings to the cylinder. By running it hard and letting your engine decel it puts load on it and ensures that it is seated. Granted most bikes are dyno broken in from the factory already and since your bike is a few years old, if the rings hadn't sealed properly before it's probably a little too late now. But I wouldn't worry about it just check your oil level after 1k miles to see if you are losing any.

TL;DR - just ride it.

ps - congrats on your new bike! Glad you didn't listen to the naysayers and went with your heart.

[Speeddog]

Aren't there some more interesting side-roads you can take?

[bdub]

Congratulations on your purchase.

Now I'm jealous

[Duchess]

You might have the dealer install a 14 tooth front sprocket before you get there. That'll let you have a bit more of the bottom end of the RPMs so you can ride with a bit more rev range.

The 2004 S4R was Euro 2 emissions, not Euro 3, so it has a 39T rear sprocket already. The grearing didn;t feel over tall on my test ride - does it really need the 14T up front as well as the 39T at the back ?

Duchess

[Duchess]

Thanks everyone ... even the naysayers did say "you will know it when you ride it" and I did - just not necessarily what they expected me to like

And to the "too much power and top speed naysayers" - why would I choose to be a hooligan at 160mph on the Duke, when I could be a hooligan at 170mph in my Porsche instead ?

I pick it up my Duke on Friday and hopefully will have some pics to post over the weekend

Duchess

[El-Twin]

^^^ As they say... "Pictures or it didn't happen."

[Slide Panda]

The 2004 S4R was Euro 2 emissions, not Euro 3, so it has a 39T rear sprocket already. The grearing didn;t feel over tall on my test ride - does it really need the 14T up front as well as the 39T at the back ?

Duchess

Probably not. Don't fret about it at this point. Take some time to get to know your new ride and then you can make an informed decision about altering the gearing if you feel a need.

But yeah 14 39 might make it a little wheelie happy. My 900 is geared similarly (15/42) and even the old girl will power the front wheel off the ground in 2nd if I desire it too - and that's with my 200+ pounds of meat and gear on top. And a 900, while spunky, is no S4R.

[Duchess]

Well, I made it home with my new baby ... love her :-)

Came up I-71 as I had a narrow weather window - literally rode up to Cincinnati on the wings of a storm - luckily the S4R was easily able to out run the rain and we made it back dry (bug splattered but dry).

- the 04 S4R is 42:15 compared to the EVO at 39:15 -- and my math says the following

stock EVO/796 39:15 = 2.6:1
14T   EVO/796 39:14 = 2.785:1
stock S4R       42:14 = 2.8:1

so my bike is already set up the same ratios as you are trying to recreate on the newer bikes with dropping the front to 14T ... So I don't think I need to go there ...


5K rpm was an indicated 80, and Sheila in the chase car verified that against the car sat nav ... and 80@ 5K is what Curmudgeon says he gets from his 14T 796.  S4R was quite happy running at between 4 and 5k, even with less than 100 on the clock, so I'm going to hold off on the 14T until well run in at the 1,500 mile mark

now I need to go read the post on how to do pictures ...

Duchess

[Speeddog]

Transmission ratios are not the same between S4R and 696/796.

So comparing the final drive ratios is a bit dodgy unless you take those into account.

And there's a dramatic displacement difference, and 4-valve to 2-valve as well.

[ducpainter]

If you want to get a  more accurate representation of the gearing between the different models you can check here...

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

[showerfan]

a) i'm jealous, awesome find. what color? let's see some pics!
b) you don't have to break in engines anymore, welcome to the 21st century. tear it up.
c) you and sheila both ride? are you single? i like.