695 mods and revamp

[Raux]

plus imagine the weight savings.
seriously even if they only put this on the S or R models, it has its merits.

[suzyj]

huh? how? a circuit board and standard off the shelf components? smaller guage wires and less of it?
serious other than the design, which is done (selling point again for you Suzy), this HAS to be cheaper in large scale than the current wiring.

Hehe - if I was working for Ducati (and had my druthers) the whole loom would be one CAN bus - the number of connections would be about 1/4 of what's there now.

[kyle]

huh? how? a circuit board and standard off the shelf components? smaller guage wires and less of it?
serious other than the design, which is done (selling point again for you Suzy), this HAS to be cheaper in large scale than the current wiring.

Because it complicates things.. Having to re-tool a production line and so on and so forth..

Cost will be the overlying factor. It always is with things like this

[DucHead]

Beautiful work Suzy!!

[xsephirot]

Because it complicates things.. Having to re-tool a production line and so on and so forth..

Cost will be the overlying factor. It always is with things like this

Just because you've always done something one way doesn't mean it is the right way.

Suzy I'm really interested in that battery now as opposed to the shorai. I followed the link to the cbr forum. I presume if I just wanted the battery I can hook it up like a normal battery?

[Lieutenant Dan]

The goals of the project are as follows:

• Respray the heads, which have turned brown and yucky.

Here's a photo of my vertical head, showing the extent of the paint discolouration:

Suzy, great thread! What did you end up doing about the discolored heads? I, too, have a 695 and mine are beginning to look way worse than yours riding around in this 110 degree Texas heat...

Dan[/list]

[Raux]

As I'm having issues with my single phase regulator, i have to ask. Have you developed a better solution to the hot R/R

[suzyj]

They're a work in progress.

So far I've:

• Removed them from the bike
• Disassembled them
• Bead blasted the old paint off
• Removed the valve guides
• Ported the intake and exhaust ports
• Bought paint (VHT)
• Ordered new guides

Still to do:

• Buy appropriate reamers for new guides
• Make tool for holding head in a mill for reaming to ensure guides stay concentric with seats
• Ream head and install new guides, then ream guides
• Buy seat cutters and pilot
• Cut seats
• Paint
• Buy new valves, guide seals and shim kit
• Reassemble heads
• Shim valves
• Put heads on bike
• Fit new belts and set valve timing
• Finish the wiring and putting other stuff back together
• Start it and grin a lot

I've had some other expenses of late, which has slowed things down a little. Should be back together in the next couple of months.

[suzyj]

As I'm having issues with my single phase regulator, i have to ask. Have you developed a better solution to the hot R/R

No. I bought a Shindengen one. You should do this also.

[suzyj]

Just because you've always done something one way doesn't mean it is the right way.

Suzy I'm really interested in that battery now as opposed to the shorai. I followed the link to the cbr forum. I presume if I just wanted the battery I can hook it up like a normal battery?

Yup, that's how mine has been wired up for the last 18 months or so.

I came across a bit of a gotcha with my fusebox replacement - it draws 17mA when the bike is switched off. That's enough current to flatten the battery in a fortnight or so. I plan on engineering a better one, but in the meantime I'll have to either remove the 30A fuse or leave the bike on a tender when I'm not riding it for a while.

[Raux]

No. I bought a Shindengen one. You should do this also.

can it be used for a 98 st2. single phase 450w stator

[suzyj]

can it be used for a 98 st2. single phase 450w stator

Can't see why not - just connect to two of the three stator inputs. Roadster cycle certainly says they can. http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm

Mine is an FH020A.

[Lieutenant Dan]

Truly brilliant. What's your mechanical/electrical background? I would one day love to be as knowledgeable as you.

 

[brad black]

suzy, what are your thoughts re the circuit breaker versus maxi fuse

[suzyj]

suzy, what are your thoughts re the circuit breaker versus maxi fuse

Both have their place. One is not inherently better than the other - circumstances dictate which is better in a given application.

For the main 30A fuse in series with the battery, my preference is for a fuse (I'm using an ATO fuse on my bike, but a maxi fuse is fine here). My reasoning for this is simply voltage drop. The resistance of a 30A ATO fuse is 1.85mOhm (http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/FKS_32V.pdf). At a typical current draw of 10A, this equates to less than 0.02V drop. A typical circuit breaker (for example the Tyco W58 - http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/W58-XB1A4A-30/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduiezy%2fpT8nwB7sXuxNcrL9e%252bxOE3VYdzQv3SVyJby7EIA%3d%3d) has 4mOhms resistance, so 0.04V drop at 10A.

Of course the breaker has the convenience of being easily reset. That can be good, but it can also lead to significant wiring damage or fires if the cause of the problem isn't tracked down first. ISTR there are strict rules regarding resetting breakers on aircraft, for example.

My power distribution board is essentially a set of circuit breakers. In this case though six of the breakers are replacing both a fuse and a relay or switch, so the overall voltage drop is reduced.