Monster 1000sie. Regulator gets really hot after installing LED lights.

[Niclas]

Hi guys.

Need some help with this problem:

Yesterday, I've installed a Barracuda Tiger LED brakelight and Barracuda LED turn signals.
Went out for a ride, and after about 30mins, I noticed that there was more heat than usual coming from underneath the seat, close to the tank.
I stopped, and opened the seat, and could feel the heat coming out. Tried to touch the regulator, and it was HOT! But after a minute or so, I could lay my hand on it, without to much trouble. So i carried on with my ride, and just moved myself further away. Did a couple of similar stops, and it was not getting any hotter, but it was so hot, that I wouldn't sit straight over it. I tried, but after 5-10mins, I had to move away again.

I know that the regulator isn't the best on this bike, but so far it have worked perfectly. Will my best option be to purchase a different regulator? Or will this problem be solved, if I install my old lights again? There are resistors installed on the turn lights, but nothing on the brake light, so my thoughts are that this is the source for the extra heat production. But I really don't know what to do right now. Hope you guys have some good ideas.

[battlecry]

Niclas, whatever energy you do not spend powering your bike is wasted as heat by the regulator.  If your new led lights and resistor consume less power than the bulbs, that becomes heat localized at the regulator.  Getting a Shingengen (spell?) MOSFET can help, but why don't you try reinstalling it first?   

[Niclas]

I've tried looking for a MOSFET, but they seems to be sold out everywhere...

So a possible (temporary) solution is to just find something that will use energy? Like more resistors? Or neon lights underneath the bike? 

[ungeheuer]

If you fit one of these, you use more of that excess electrical output for a cooler regulator.... and you'll be a cooler you  



Looks pretty slick too doesnt it?  

[battlecry]

Yes.  High beam will work in a pinch.  

If the site sponsors don't have a Shindengen, you may want to try http://www.ronayers.com/ 

[Niclas]

If you fit one of these, you use more of that excess electrical output for a cooler regulator.... and you'll be a cooler you  



Looks pretty slick too doesnt it?  

Wow! Does that really sell? I can't imagine they will sell even one item, up here in cold Norway ;-)

[Niclas]

Yes.  High beam will work in a pinch.  

If the site sponsors don't have a Shindengen, you may want to try http://www.ronayers.com/ 

Thanks! Will take a look around. Currently looking for a used one here in Norway. Maybe I get lucky.

[suzyj]

I think we're jumping to conclusions too quickly.

The stock taillight bulb is just 5W, so replacing that with an LED makes very little difference to the total power draw of the bike, and shouldn't make a discernable impact on the temperature of the regulator.

OP:  Check your fuses.  You may have blown the headlight fuse, causing significantly lower power draw. Also check the connections to the rectifier/regulator.  If it's not properly connected to the battery (red and green wires), it won't be charging and will be wasting lots of power as heat.

Also the rectifier/regulator may be damaged.

[Howie]

I think we're jumping to conclusions too quickly.

The stock taillight bulb is just 5W, so replacing that with an LED makes very little difference to the total power draw of the bike, and shouldn't make a discernable impact on the temperature of the regulator.

OP:  Check your fuses.  You may have blown the headlight fuse, causing significantly lower power draw. Also check the connections to the rectifier/regulator.  If it's not properly connected to the battery (red and green wires), it won't be charging and will be wasting lots of power as heat.

Also the rectifier/regulator may be damaged.

[Niclas]

I think we're jumping to conclusions too quickly.

The stock taillight bulb is just 5W, so replacing that with an LED makes very little difference to the total power draw of the bike, and shouldn't make a discernable impact on the temperature of the regulator.

OP:  Check your fuses.  You may have blown the headlight fuse, causing significantly lower power draw. Also check the connections to the rectifier/regulator.  If it's not properly connected to the battery (red and green wires), it won't be charging and will be wasting lots of power as heat.

Also the rectifier/regulator may be damaged.

Thanks.

Have checked all my cables and connectors, and the all seems good. Haven't checked the headlight fuse, but it's always on, so that must mean it's working?. So I guess this means my regulator is due to a change?

[Niclas]

So.... After reading a lot on this forum, I found out that I might aswell invest in an upgrade, the shindengen FH012, the relocater kit from tpoparts and complete cables and connectors from Jack@Roadstercycle. I sent out a request to a couple of dealers (mostly used parts) here in Norway, and got a couple of hits. Of course I choosed the cheapest and closest one (lucky?).

Well, I paid for the part, went home, and looked at the regulator. It's a FH001 version.... So, will this have anything to say? Or will it still be an upgrade and make mye bike light up as it should?
I can of course return the part, but it will take me some hours driving, some $$ in gas, time++ etc. So if it's not a big deal if it's a FH012 or FH001, I will give it a try.

Have of coursed tried googling a bit, but no luck to find out what the difference between them are. What I've found out, is that the FH001 is an older version, from the 01' to the 03' Yamaha R1, and the FH012, is from late 06' to 09' or so. Some may think it's more voltage(?) and lower amp on the FH001, but haven't really found any proof for that statement. Anybody in here that know if it will work or not? And what's the difference? To my eyes, it looks exactly the same as the FH012, and I think that's why the dealer made the mistake...