Should this concern me?

[RedRider]

I had the shop put on a 14T for me last week.  The bike is kind of misbehaving so I took the cover off to take a peek.  Check out the bend on that spacer?  Is that normal?   I thought it was going to be a great change.....not so much.  Now I am experiencing some weird noise like a clinking when I slow down where the engine is at an idle and then put on the throttle.  It only makes sense that it is related to the recent change or maybe the chain tension is not correct?  Also the bike surges and lurches more than I remember and is nearly impossible to ride at speeds below 20mph without feeling really strange. 

Anyone out there got any advice?

[scduc]

Thats actually a lock washer, and it does look like a hack job, however, if the chain is not hitting it then all is good.

[RedRider]

im gonna text the picture to the head of the service department at the shop and see what he says.  the mechanic that worked on it looked like he hadnt slept in a week.  I think something is hitting something...just doesnt sound right and rides weird.  Thanks for your observation.

[Slide Panda]

Does your bike have ABS? Apparently it's not so simple as to smack a new sprocket on the ABS bikes

While not pretty there's nothing obviously wrong with that lock washer. They are put there with the intention of being bent onto a face of the nut to prevent it from turning. Like I said, not pretty - but it appears to be making contact with the top face of the nut, so it's 'right'

Over loose chain tension can cause 'herky-jerky' performance especially at low/transitional speeds like one would see around town with lots of stopping, starting and speed changes. It will also make more noise as it slaps around.

[Buckethead]

The bent down washer is fine. It's supposed to look like that, only more even. As said above, if it's not hitting the chain, and it's not, then that's not your issue.

Everything you describe sounds like chain tension.

When you're on the throttle, your engine is pulling the TOP section of the chain tight. When you're off the throttle or engine braking, your wheel is pulling the BOTTOM of the chain tight. If the entire chain is too loose, the top section of chain will slap against the swingarm. It's not GOOD, but it's not bad unless left unchecked for a long time. You've got a plastic spacer/friction plate there for just that reason.

When you roll on the throttle, your engine has just >ll< that much time to take up the slack in the chain, which results in lurching/jerking.

Adjust your chain tension. Do it yourself. Learn how. Learn where it needs to be for your bike. It's pretty straight forward, and will get you used to working on your bike. My guess is it'll cure what's ailing you.

[corey]

in addition to what these guys are saying... switching from the stock 15T to a 14T changes the radius of the "bend" it has to make at the front sprocket (makes it smaller)... this definitely will make things a little louder.

[RedRider]

Thanks so much for the replies.  I would love to try and fix this myself, but after reading the manual it kind of scared me off from adjusting the chain tension.  Says it must be done by an authorized ducati dealer.  Not sure why, I know its not that difficult.  They state that the distance of the center of the link to the swingarm needs to be between 60-63mm.  3mm aint alot of play space.    This bike is such a pain when it comes to maintenance.  Just getting to the battery takes 20 minutes.  I love the evo, but I hate it too.....

Unless someone knows a super way to adjust this without risking messing things up, looks like i am headed back to the dealer and another week or two of waiting for them to work on it...

[Raux]

that's crazy. a chain adjustment is a five minute job.

as far as the battery, yeah a pain, put on battery tender leads so you don't have to go in their too much.

[Howie]

"must be done ..." has to do with liability.  Just keep in mind too loose is better than too tight.

[RBX QB]

Since its likely just a chain tension adjustment, find a local small bike shop to make friends with and see if they'll take care of you. Like Raux said, 5 minute job with the right tools. And ask if you can watch, so you know how to do it next time.

[Slide Panda]

"must be done ..." has to do with liability.  Just keep in mind too loose is better than too tight.

True - too tight can ruin engine bits. Too loose, it might skip teeth, but that'll only ruin the sprocket(s) and chain

Ok, so you have a single sided swing arm yes? With the exception of needing the right sized spanner it's a super easy job to adjust the tension. You don't even need to align the rear wheel like us with the DSS do. Basically, you loosen a couple bolts that prevent the eccentric hub at the back of the swing arm from rotating. Now that it can, you put that spanner to it and rotate as needed to take up the slack.

Obviously you want to follow the detailed instructions and do it right (and as Howie notes, a little loose is fine) - But there's no need to visit the dealer.

[zooom]

sounds like to me your next accessory purchase should be a rear stand for maintenance and storage usage!!!

[Mhanis]

You only need one unusual tool to adjust the chain on a single sided swing arm bike, a specific spanner wrench. I bought mine a few years ago for about $20, but I don't remember where.

All you have to do is loosen the pinch bolts and then use the spanner wrench on the hub. The tire will remain in alignment as it moves either closer to the bike or further away. Measure at the specific point for the chain sag, when it is correct tighten the pich bolts to the specified torque.

It really is about the easiest thing to do other than put gas in the bike.


Mark

[dlearl476]

Thats actually a lock washer, and it does look like a hack job, however, if the chain is not hitting it then all is good.

Meh, that looks like my work when I forgot to order a new lock washer and have to use the old one and can't find my channel-loks and have to use a hammer and screwdriver the bend the old washer!

Not pretty, but not serious as long as the CS sprocket is properly torqued and the washer prevents it from loosening.

[Nottsbiker]

"must be done ..." has to do with liability.  Just keep in mind too loose is better than too tight.

I almost agree, but have experience when younger of going round a left hander with a loose chain and finding it lodged into the gap between the swingarm and sprocket followed by a rather rapid decrease in forward motion