I think my SSS Hub has gone. (Solved)

[CairnsDuc]

G'day all

I was changing the Oil in my 07 S2R 800 and I had the bike on it's front and rear stands, while I was waiting for the Oil to drain I often have a look around the bike, check things like brake pads, loose screws and bolts, checking for leaks Etc, I rotated the rear wheel by hand and I could feel and hear a knocking noise.

I checked the chain, It was a little loose (About 50mm of deflection) I tightened it up to about 35-40mm of deflection) OEM suggest 30-32mm.

Tried spinning the wheel again, and the knock was still there, I put a screwdriver against the Clutch cover, the gearbox housing and a few more places around the Engine and could barely hear the noise.

Place my ear to the SSS (via a screwdriver) and the rattle/knock is very noticeable, If I rotate the wheel back and forth I can feel and hear the knocking which sounds like the hub/bearings knocking.

I always assumed these things were pretty tough, I am a fairly conservative rider, I only ever ride by myself.
Have these hubs been an issue in the past? I can only assume that I must have a unit with a dud bearing.

This should be covered under warranty.

I'm just curious if anyone else has had any drama's?

[A.duc.H.duc.]

Sounds like you've done your troubleshooting pretty well. I'd just add, chains can be pretty noisy sometimes, especially if they're new, or worn out. Are you sure it's not just the chain being amplified by the rear sprocket into the bearing?

Justin

[Norm]

Pull the wheel & see if you've snapped any of the retaining pins. Another common problem is that the cove on the wheel loses it's roundness. I've never had danage to any of the hub bearing themselves.

[DarkStaR]

See if any of the cushdrives have backed out.

When they back out on the S*R, it can hit/rub against the hub eccentric adjuster.

[CairnsDuc]

I'm not going to go to crazy, being still under warranty I think my dealer will get a little pissy if I start disassembling the rear end, I'm going to drop by and let him have a look/listen to see what he thinks.

I thought it may be the chain as well, but you can hear and feel this noise through the back tyre when I rotate the tyre by hand, and thinking back, the noise when riding home from work yesterday did not sound right.

Doing some reading around the web and googling I seem to find that this is a very rare problem, from what I can tell the SSS hub assembly is pretty tough and bearing failure and faults are almost non existent.

[Capo]

Be aware that the rear wheel is rotating on the stand bearing, you might want to support the bike by other means the check it again.

[uclabiker06]

My two cents:  Loose chain.

[CairnsDuc]

well I checked with my dealer this Morning, They took it in and checked the hub, had a listen to the gearbox, all seemed fine, The hub was a little noisy but nothing to be worried about (they made a note on the service file in case it does become an issue down the track), He also checked the Cush drives and any thing else just to be sure but nothing out of the ordinary.

It's the OEM chain! It's got tight points all the way through it, When he moved the chain it would not self return, it would hold the shape he put it in!
I lube the chain every 300 K's (Every 2 tank fills)
He was saying to not use a chain wax like I have been using the Oring chain from factory don't last very long up here because of our heat/humidity and very sandy/dirty roads

Here I was thinking I was doing the right thing with the chain wax, In fact I was killing the OEM chain with Kindness (Up here in Northern Australia) Our Sandy roads cause the sand to stick to the chain wax like a magent, the oil will let it fling off.

So I'll Stick to chain oil, it doesn't stick as well as chain wax, but is essential up here to clean and lube the chains So for the next 5 - 6 weeks I have to lube the chain once a week to try and get it to free up.

They can see I look after it and lube the chain well as the sprockets are in excellent condition, but not enough to keep these OEM O ring chains happy.

Capo: considered this option last night (Before reading your post) So I tried the spinning the wheel without the stand this morning with no difference.

Learning experience, I'd rather get the dealership to check it then let it drag on and do more damage.

[EEL]

Have fun cleaning the back wheel fling. Chain lubes seems to fling more for me in comparison to waxes. Perhaps its just me..

[johnster]

It's the OEM chain! It's got tight points all the way through it, When he moved the chain it would not self return, it would hold the shape he put it in!
I lube the chain every 300 K's (Every 2 tank fills)

Yep,  Same deal here. 

I have a few spots on my chain that are MUCH looser than others, which is kind of annoying when you're cruising @ 5-10mph  through downtown, but I just ignore it, as it's not too noticable once you stretch the bike's legs out a bit...

I am gonna replace the chain soon though. I would imagine what you hear is a bum link somewhere that's getting kinked up or whatever..

I've heard good thingsa about RK's so I might give one of them a a try..

[carlosbarrios]

See if any of the cushdrives have backed out.

When they back out on the S*R, it can hit/rub against the hub eccentric adjuster.

This happened to me  .  Chewed up the eccentric hub *almost* all the way.  Good thing it didn't go all the way to the swingarm.  I have a new eccentric waiting to be put on.  I took some pictures of the damage that are on TOB.

There are two ways to avoid this:
1) buy an AFAM sprocket with the sprocket carrier.  they have small tabs at the end that keep the cushdrive bearings from backing out if they fail. 
2) remove the OEM sprocket, and with a centre punch or a flat-head screwdriver (i used a screwdriver), hammer in some dents on the edge of the hole (on the side towards the eccentric hub) where the cushdrive bearings go.  This will create a deformation that will keep them from coming out of the hole towards the eccentric hub, kinda like the way the tabs work on the AFAM sprocket.  Check that the  cushdrive bearings can't go through before re-assembling.