Engine Noise, Left side, LOUD!

[DesmoTillDeath]

The situation I am about to describe is proving to be on its way to a big problem because the noise is getting louder and drivability is going down.

-When the engine is warmed up after say 3 minutes stationary or 1.5 min riding there is a loud noise coming from the left side of the case that resembles the sound of loud valves (Valves are fully adjusted. Checked and rechecked)
-This noise is accompanied by an whine that can be heard on the right side of the engine. This whine is mid-pitched and most prominent at 3000 rpms.
-oil level is good and was just replaced (10w30 FS)
-belts are in good shape. tightened them not too long ago but dont have any fancy way to gauge tesion. I use the 5mm and 6mm hex key test method described on the tutorial video for belt replacement.
-Engine has 25800 miles on her.
-At highway speeds of 75 or more there is an ear piercing metal-on-metal ting or ping that I can hear over road noise, termi slipons, wind, and helmet.

-Power at high speed or high rpms is noticably decreased
-power (ability to accelerate) from a stop or at low speeds is noticably decreased.



I rely on this horse to get from home to school and work and am deathly affraid of a mid-corner or highway detonation of the engine. My fear is that it is an internal bearing or gear that may cost quite a bit to replace.
I am the third owner and as far as I know the case has never been opened.

Anyone have experience with these noises? As best as I can explain them anyway. If I get a chance to take a video of it with decent sound that emphasizes the noises then I will post it.

I appreciate any responces as usual. 

[stopintime]

Have you removed the left side engine cover?

It wouldn't be the first time some big important nut came loose (and the gears it should hold in place)

As usual, I'm no expert, but the left side/then right side noise could maybe mean crank main bearing?

Hopefully I'm wrong, but I think it's safe to suggest that you have this taken care of.

[motoxmann]

agreed. remove the left side cover (must drain oil first to do this), visually inspect everything for wear or missing parts, then start grabbing all the parts and jiggling/moving them to see if stuff seems abnormal. and yes, get on this asap, continuing to ride will only increase the damage more than likely increasing the cost of repairs dramatically. also when you drain the oil watch for metalflake in the oil. heavy flakes, or the standard concept of the oil looking like car paint as it drains

[DesmoTillDeath]

I hope it isnt the main crank bearings. That would require me to drop the engine and split the half cases.
Today I stop driving it and put her up on the lift. The noise is getting worse and Im getting more nervous.
Hopefully tomorrow i will have time to take the left cover off at least.

Just in case:       Does anyone have a 01 m900 engine they are parting out?
                           I checked ducatimcparts.com and the bill can easily stack up.
                           Ebay had a surprisingly large selection of engine parts.

[jerryz]

loose alternator nut is common and easy fix , hope its only that

[militar3rd]

Year model?

[krista]

1st thing to do is take off the tiny cover and look at the bearing. If the balls are evenly oriented around the bearing, it's ok. If they're all gathered together on the bottom, the bearing failed.

Also, no need to drain oil to take of left cover. Put a bungee on the front brake lever and lean the bike to the right against a wall or workbench, etc. (make sure it's stable) and then all the oil runs away from where you're working.

[DesmoTillDeath]

Militar3rd - 2001 monster 900.

I changed the oil maybe 300 miles ago so ill try to save it my using your suggestion Chris.
The left cover used liquid gasket correct? Or is there a paper gasket I gotta buy? (Don't have my book on me at the moment  )

In a few hours I will be home and starting on it. I'll make sure to take pics if I have doubts or find any extreme carnage  .

Something to note: despite w/e is going on behind the covers the bike still starts fine, idles, and operates normal (minus the power loss and noise)

[Roaduser]

u can buy a paper gasket for it, but i just use some universal "grey max" gasket goo as do all the mechanics local to me... if using a gasket goo it is important to use it sparingly! excess goo can pile up inside the case and break off, then u dont know where it will logde itself, possibly a crutial oil gallery.

[DesmoTillDeath]

Who ever called the loose alternator nut gets the prize. Opened up the case and the nut spun with one finger. Here's the damage:

IMG_2702 by yumaaz1987, on Flickr

IMG_2699 by yumaaz1987, on Flickr

The edge of the alternator was rubbing out the inside of the case.


IMG_2697 by yumaaz1987, on Flickr

IMG_2695 by yumaaz1987, on Flickr
This is the stator which made contact on the mounting bolts with the cone shape on the inside of the alternator. The mounting bolts for the alternator made contact with the copper wires on the stator.

Should I replace the stator?
Im leaning towards yes.

[stopintime]

Who ever called the loose alternator nut gets the prize.

Thanks - shipping will be expensive - give it to charity

.....
Should I replace the stator?
Im leaning towards yes.

Lean harder

[motoxmann]

I would definitely replace the stator.
you can also check the manual to see if there are specs for the stator to test it. because while you're waiting for the part you might be able to put it back together (nut tightened properly of course), and continue riding reliably

[krista]

If there is continuity between the phases and none to the metal core, I would try running it.

[Roaduser]

If there is continuity between the phases and none to the metal core, I would try running it.

i agree, oil does not conduct electricity, so as long as the coils/phases are not open cuircut or shorting directly against each other it should be fine as it is. being a static item its unlikely to fatigue and break at one of your new weak points, but discretion advised there, if you have near broken a wire it might be best to replace it.

[chris1044]

There's a 'liquid' heat shrink that's out on the market.  I've used it with decent results.  You could try using that on the windings.


Otherwise, if you've got an old oven you could try to pick up some stator varnish - Dolph make some decent resins, but most require an oven to cure.  VonRoll is another good company I've used with good success, but it's more commercial.


I would try re running the stator as-is, and if the voltage is good/it charges, I'd then try to coat the windings with some sort of insulation depending on how much you ride the bike...