2000 m900s starting woes...

[rsoffar]

ok so my problem started last year, right before the bike got stored for winter. So its not a new issue that came about during storage.

Heres the scene... I would go out try to start the bike and just get one click, thats all. Turn it off try again, same thing one click, over and over. Lights and all would turn on, even tried with a brand new battery. Most of the time (if i didnt give up) i could end up getting the bike started after about 15-20 mins of trying (cursing, jiggling, and the general kicking that comes from not knowing what else to do) and it would run fine once going. So thats the general description of the issue...

I assume my issue lays in either the starter or the wires going to it. Is there a way to check these things before spending money on new ones? Would you go to one before the other? I did notice when checking things out last year that the little rubber piece covering the connection from wire to the starter that one would assume is there to keep the weather away wasnt exactly doing too good of a job as when i pulled it off it was full of water in there.

If Im going to need to replace any of these things is it worth/available to upgrade for better starting performance?

[Slide Panda]

Ahh, sounds familiar.

It's possible that you've got a bad connection - so it wouldn't' hurt to check the condition of the connections to the starter @ the starter and the ground for the starter on the left side of the case at the front. If they are all good clean and snug...

An easy and free check (that I should have done first as opposed to thinking my starter was dead) is to bypass the solenoid. It's on the right side, tucked into the frame near the back of the air box. There are two thicker wires running to it with rubber boots. Work the boots free, so you can see the terminals of each. The get the bike ready to run - power on, kill switch to run.

Your weapon of choice for this will be a wrench (spanner) that will touch both terminals AND you don't care much about. You do run the risk of tack welding it to the solenoid.

Be aware there will be sparks! With a glove on, bridge the two large wire terminals of the solenoid. One of two things will happen
- If the solenoid has gone bad, the bike will turn over/fire like it used to.
- If something else is at fault the same no start will occur.

You will need to hold the wrench there for more than a fractional seconds touch and as mentioned there will be sparks. If a worst case happens and the wrench  gets stuck - just kill the power @ the ignition.

[rsoffar]

Ahh, sounds familiar.

It's possible that you've got a bad connection - so it wouldn't' hurt to check the condition of the connections to the starter @ the starter and the ground for the starter on the left side of the case at the front. If they are all good clean and snug...

An easy and free check (that I should have done first as opposed to thinking my starter was dead) is to bypass the solenoid. It's on the right side, tucked into the frame near the back of the air box. There are two thicker wires running to it with rubber boots. Work the boots free, so you can see the terminals of each. The get the bike ready to run - power on, kill switch to run.

Your weapon of choice for this will be a wrench (spanner) that will touch both terminals AND you don't care much about. You do run the risk of tack welding it to the solenoid.

Be aware there will be sparks! With a glove on, bridge the two large wire terminals of the solenoid. One of two things will happen
- If the solenoid has gone bad, the bike will turn over/fire like it used to.
- If something else is at fault the same no start will occur.

You will need to hold the wrench there for more than a fractional seconds touch and as mentioned there will be sparks. If a worst case happens and the wrench  gets stuck - just kill the power @ the ignition.

ahhh great Ill try this, surprised I didnt think about it like this as Ive had to do this to my yj before when I thought the starter was dead (turned out it wasnt ha)

[Slide Panda]

Like I said, I assumed mine was the starter too... went through the hassle and cost of installing a new one only to have the EXACT same thing happen as before when I hit the starter. 

Zooom suggested jumping the solenoid and it cranked right over. Could have saved a bit over $100 and a good bit of fussing if I'd done that first.

[SpikeC]

 The water in the boot is your clue here, I think. You prolly have some corrosion in the connection.

[Howie]

Since bypassing the solenoid also bypass the ignition if the wrench sticks the bike will continue to crank until the battery is disconnected, drained, or the starter fries.  Something like this  http://www.mechanicstoolsupply.com/Remote-Control-Starter-Switch_p_17756.html  beasts a wrench.  Also, make sure the bike is in neutral since you are bypassing all safeties. 

If bypassing the solenoid doesn't work (with negative on the battery disconnected) Carefully remove the nut holding the cable to the starter since you found water in the boot.  Very carefully since it is easy to break the lug on the starter internally.  Got a voltmeter?  If so we can help you further.

[Slide Panda]

As usual, Howies advice is better.

IN reflection, part of my leses fiare attitude is that I had the tank off and my battery is on a quick disconnect. So pulling the power is just as easy fore me as turning a switch.

Howies approach is more sensible 

[zooom]

As usual, Howies advice is better.

IN reflection, part of my leses fiare attitude is that I had the tank off and my battery is on a quick disconnect. So pulling the power is just as easy fore me as turning a switch.

Howies approach is more sensible 

or you could have a plastic covered or rubber deadblow hammer on hand in the event you can't immediately break the instant tac weld...LOL

[rsoffar]

Since bypassing the solenoid also bypass the ignition if the wrench sticks the bike will continue to crank until the battery is disconnected, drained, or the starter fries.  Something like this  http://www.mechanicstoolsupply.com/Remote-Control-Starter-Switch_p_17756.html  beasts a wrench.  Also, make sure the bike is in neutral since you are bypassing all safeties.  

If bypassing the solenoid doesn't work (with negative on the battery disconnected) Carefully remove the nut holding the cable to the starter since you found water in the boot.  Very carefully since it is easy to break the lug on the starter internally.  Got a voltmeter?  If so we can help you further.

yes I do have access to a voltmeter. I havent had a chance to try anything yet and prob wont tonight either because of a bike race but tomorrow is seeming like a good day to break into it all. Maybe Ill go down to autozone and score one of those remote starter switches also 

[rsoffar]

or you could have a plastic covered or rubber deadblow hammer on hand in the event you can't immediately break the instant tac weld...LOL

seems like we think on the same plane haha

last time I did this to my yj back in high school I used 0 guage wire to make the connection and guess I got lucky, it started right up with no sparks or tacking of anything ha

[rsoffar]

So I finally got around to the bike just now and of course the battery is dead... but it did have enough to turn the engine over a little bit when I used the remote starter which is much more than the single click I got before so I assume there is my problem.

[rsoffar]

how interchangeable is the starter solenoid between different year models? will one of any monster work for my 900?

[Slide Panda]

Taking a quick look at parts diagram it *looks* like the same solenoid was used until at least the end of the 620. BUT! The part number is different - that looks to be tied to the mounting which comes with the solenoid

From the 900 it's
39740011a
From the 05 620 its'
39740021a

A solenoid like that is pretty generic and just slips into the various mounts.