Fork spring advice?

Started by memper, May 18, 2013, 12:47:06 PM

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memper

I'm going to replace the springs in my forks when I change my oil in the hopes that they will help the nose dive effect of my shitty Marzocchi forks. I know I should get better suspension but my boss should pay me more. Until then its the bandaid method.

My questions are these:
1) I weigh roughly 185lbs in regular clothes. I'm looking at getting Racetech springs. Do I get the 85kg or the 90kg?

2) should I replace the fork oil with stock weight or go heavier?
"Calling a bikini fairing on a monster a fairing is like calliing a girl in an actual bikini proper work attire....unless shes a stripper." -He Man

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stopintime

I'm not you and I'm not an expert, but anyway...

IMO the biggest problem is lack of rebound damping.
If you choose a stiffer spring, it will only make that particular issue worse.
Unless heavier oil improves the rebound (I'd be surprised if it does)

So, a relatively soft LINEAR spring and heavier oil is my first thought.
252,000 km/seventeen years - loving it

memper

Im no expert either. Heavier oil will help with the rebound in my imagination.  But I too could be way off.
What concerns me most is the dive on hard stops. Wouldnt a stiffer spring help in that regard and not a softer one?
I plan to call Racetech on monday to sort it out but I figure my fellow Ducatisti would have some input. Thanks Stop.
"Calling a bikini fairing on a monster a fairing is like calliing a girl in an actual bikini proper work attire....unless shes a stripper." -He Man

-----------------------------------------
Important: always check your battery filter and regularly change your headlight fluid.

bdfinally

Just call racetech, they're super friendly and helpful.
The tyranny of the rat race is not yet final...HST

brad black

are they showa or marzocchi?
Brad The Bike Boy

http://www.bikeboy.org

stopintime

Brad: Marzocchi.

My impression is that the rebound valving is so poor that the gain you get from heavier oil won't be very noticeable. Not because heavier oil doesn't help, but because the starting point is so far off.

If the new springs return with relatively more force than the new rebound damping can absorb - you end up with faster rebound.

If the new springs are 'soft', the poor rebound damping won't be as problematic. Going linear will help against the quick dive - even if the spring is relatively 'soft'.

The challenge is to get all the factors in harmony.
252,000 km/seventeen years - loving it

brad black

Brad The Bike Boy

http://www.bikeboy.org

stopintime

252,000 km/seventeen years - loving it

brad black

oh, those 40mm marzocchi.

they're crap.  they have no compression damping function until about 2/3 compressed, which means the only way you can remove dive under braking is springs and preload.

at 85kg i'd be fitting a 0.8 - 0.85 spring I guess.
Brad The Bike Boy

http://www.bikeboy.org

memper

Quote from: brad black on May 19, 2013, 05:19:43 PM
oh, those 40mm marzocchi.

they're crap.  they have no compression damping function until about 2/3 compressed, which means the only way you can remove dive under braking is springs and preload.

at 85kg i'd be fitting a 0.8 - 0.85 spring I guess.
Linear or progressive IYO?
"Calling a bikini fairing on a monster a fairing is like calliing a girl in an actual bikini proper work attire....unless shes a stripper." -He Man

-----------------------------------------
Important: always check your battery filter and regularly change your headlight fluid.

brad black

Brad The Bike Boy

http://www.bikeboy.org

xsephirot

Can someone please explain why everyone recommends linear springs? I thought this depends on whether you plan on doing more for street or track. Cause a nice progressive spring for 95% street and 5% track would still be a much better option than a linear spring.

Speeddog

Quote from: xsephirot on May 20, 2013, 11:19:33 AM
Can someone please explain why everyone recommends linear springs? I thought this depends on whether you plan on doing more for street or track. Cause a nice progressive spring for 95% street and 5% track would still be a much better option than a linear spring.

You don't necessarily need a different spring for track vs. street.

The forks actually end up with a progressive spring rate due to the air volume trapped in them.
Easier to tune that progression with oil height if you feel a need to.

Rear suspension on all Monsters other than 696/796/1100 have a progressive spring rate due to the linkage.

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xsephirot

Quote from: Speeddog on May 20, 2013, 11:56:07 AM
You don't necessarily need a different spring for track vs. street.

The forks actually end up with a progressive spring rate due to the air volume trapped in them.
Easier to tune that progression with oil height if you feel a need to.

Rear suspension on all Monsters other than 696/796/1100 have a progressive spring rate due to the linkage.



Thanks speeddog! Interesting, I never knew a fork with linear springs ends up a progressive rate.

memper

#14
So I spoke with a tech at Racetech. He advised .85 linear spring with either 20 wt oil or slightly more. Haynes says to use 7.5 SAE
"Calling a bikini fairing on a monster a fairing is like calliing a girl in an actual bikini proper work attire....unless shes a stripper." -He Man

-----------------------------------------
Important: always check your battery filter and regularly change your headlight fluid.