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Started by JoshuaCJCohen, June 18, 2013, 08:37:24 AM

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ducpainter

#90
July 05, 2013, 05:15:47 AM
I personally have never seen corroded connections at the pump be an issue, but anything is possible.

Like I said in an earlier post, it's your call as to whether you put it back together with the old parts without finding the actual cause of the issue.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


JoshuaCJCohen

#91
July 05, 2013, 10:31:27 AM
What would be the next step in trying to find out the actual cause?

ducpainter

#92
July 05, 2013, 01:21:25 PM
I'm not sure you ever will unless you put it all back and it fails again.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


JoshuaCJCohen

#93
July 05, 2013, 05:40:34 PM
I'll report when I get my tank cleaned up and put back together!

JoshuaCJCohen

#94
September 07, 2013, 06:12:22 AM
PRO-15 kit arrived Wed.  I spend about 6 hours on Friday afternoon and got it resealed.  The second stage didn't take of nearly as much rust as I thought it would.  I went to work with some steel wool and got as much as I could reach but there was significant amounts left over after the multiple rinses.  Not that it mattered. When I poured the sealer into the tanks it was only then that I realized I essentially had a can of liquid metal and it was going to cover up all the rust spots.  Going to wait 6 days vice the instructed 4 as I live on a tropical island and the cure time might not cut it.  I'll be putting it back together next Friday or Saturday.

Josh

ducpainter

#95
September 07, 2013, 06:31:37 AM
High heat and humidity actually speed the cure of the POR product as it is a moisture cure urethane.

POR recommends 96 hours at 700 F and 50% relative humidity. The rule of thumb for urethane cure is that for every 150 F the temp rises you can cut the cure time in half.

Your call.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


JoshuaCJCohen

#96
September 07, 2013, 09:57:23 AM
Painter,
Temp for the week is 80 to 90 and relative humidity here is 80% - 95%.  By your math I should be done in about 2 days but since I don't have lots of spare time during the week anyway, I'll plan on letting it sit most of the week. 
I would let it sit for 96 hours anyway.  I'd hate to screw it up after all this time because I rushed it by a few hours.

Talk to you in a few days.
Josh

ducpainter

#97
September 08, 2013, 04:48:57 AM
I wasn't really suggesting to rush. Just that extra time isn't necessary due to tropical conditions,
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


JoshuaCJCohen

#98
September 11, 2013, 06:30:43 AM
Tank is back together.  I've put the fuel cap base in the tank and got the seal in place.  I'm in the process of putting the fuel cap cover on.  As you can see in this first photo there is a rubber gasket that sits over the air drain hole in the cap base.  It is fairly tall and from the way it is inserted I can only assume it is designed to allow air to flow through the drain lines as the other hole, the one with the depression, is for excess liquids that gather in the cap base.



The issue is with my aftermarket fuel cap cover.  In the second picture you can see a plastic nub on the left side of the cap ring.  There is a hole in that nub.  In the first picture you can see that hole does not go all the way through the cap cover.  That hole, I believe, is designed to line up directly over the gasket for what I'm calling the air line.  If fitted properly and tightened down I believe this will seal off the air line and inhibit the flow of fluids through the drain line.



1) Is this something I should be worried about or am I analyzing this completely wrong?
2) What is the purpose of the plastic nub that covers the rubber gasket?  From the height of the gasket I don't believe it is to prevent liquid from getting in the air line.
3) Should I puncture the gasket or cut a V in the top to allow air to flow into it when the cap cover, and nub, are in place?

Thanks,
Josh

ducpainter

#99
September 11, 2013, 06:53:42 AM
The rubber fitting is for the vent not the drain. The rubber fitting was to allow the tank to vent to the charcoal canister. The drain is on the left side of the cap base. Based on the corrosion on your cap base I suspect that drain tube is clogged, or the rubber hose under the tank was kinked.

If you have removed the charcoal canister from your bike just remove the rubber fitting.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


JoshuaCJCohen

#100
September 11, 2013, 07:16:33 AM
Those two lines go from the cap to lines in the tank and through the tank to the bottom.  Once outside the tank they merge about 4 inches below the tank and are one line through the frame to drip onto the ground.  I don't know where or what the charcoal canister is or was located but I'm assuming it was in the frame under the fuel tank. 

Yes, I understand the rubber fitting is for a vent, which is why the fitting is so tall, to prevent liquid from getting in that line.  Seems someone made a mod and combined the vent and drain lines.  I'll be pulling it off.

Thanks,
Josh

ducpainter

#101
September 11, 2013, 09:07:32 AM
Quote from: JoshuaCJCohen on September 11, 2013, 07:16:33 AM
Those two lines go from the cap to lines in the tank and through the tank to the bottom.  Once outside the tank they merge about 4 inches below the tank and are one line through the frame to drip onto the ground.  I don't know where or what the charcoal canister is or was located but I'm assuming it was in the frame under the fuel tank. 

Yes, I understand the rubber fitting is for a vent, which is why the fitting is so tall, to prevent liquid from getting in that line.  Seems someone made a mod and combined the vent and drain lines.  I'll be pulling it off.

Thanks,
Josh

The charcoal canister has had various locations depending on generation. If your lines are siamesed together it is gone.

Check that line that is the cap area drain.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


JoshuaCJCohen

#102
September 11, 2013, 03:29:08 PM
It is gone. After the tank the two lines join together and go through the frame to drain out.  When I started this project the drain line and the drain hole in the gas cap base were both clogged.  Even the metal line through the tank was clogged. I snaked it out with some safety wire, high pressure water and an air compressor.  When I put the cap base in I made sure the line connecting the drain to the in-tank-metal line was very short so it couldn't kink up and cause a blockage.  When it's all hooked back up I'll put some water in the cap base to test the draining capacity.  Living in Okinawa one thing we're not short of is rain.

JoshuaCJCohen

#103
September 13, 2013, 08:25:48 AM Last Edit: September 13, 2013, 04:33:37 PM by JoshuaCJCohen
When replacing the Sender Unit I  wasn't sure how tight to make it.  I remember the posts and pictures of broken plastic nuts so I was overly cautious and only put it on hand tight.  I put about 5 cups of gas in the tank and it leaked immediately.  I grabbed a wrench and tightened it down some more but I'm not sure how far to go.  I don't have a torque wrench but can get one.  Is there a spec for that plastic nut or do I tighten it until I see the plastic start to whiten from the strain?

ducpainter

#104
September 13, 2013, 04:49:58 PM
If everything was clean just snug it up until it stops.

You can't reef on that plastic nut, or it will crack long before it changes color.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."


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