Chain Length...

[corey]

I'm sure this info is here somewhere, but I'm having trouble finding a conclusive answer.
I am installing a new chain and new sprockets this weekend.
After having massacred a chain in 10,000 miles, I've decided to go back to my 15-tooth front sprocket. To get the gearing I want, I'm bumping up 2 teeth in back, to a 44-tooth.
Does anyone have any insight on how many links my chain would have to be?

Bike is a 2006 S2R800. Stock sprockets were 15/42. I was running 14/42.

Also, if anyone has any tips/tricks for installing this stuff, any insight is appreciated.

[stopintime]

106 links - 2 more than 104 stock.

Your bike's stock front to rear sprocket distance was 595 mm.
With your 14/42 it was 599 mm.
15/44 with a 106 chain will be 602 mm.

The change you'll end up with, 3 mm, will probably not be noticeable. It lowers your rear about 2-3 mm.

Photos of the massacred parts?

[corey]

Thanks for the input stop...

The parts aren't "massacred..."
I like to exaggerate.

The sprockets actually look brand new, and I won't be tossing them. But the chain is absolutely shot. It's got kinks all over the place, and a frozen link or two.
I honestly don't know whether to blame the 14t up front for the quick wear, or myself. I try to lube often, but I'm beginning to question the effectiveness of the Maxima chain wax. I'm going to be using a different lube this time around as well.

I'm switching back to my old stock 15t up front. It had about 2600 miles on it, max... I'm assuming it will be fine. It looks like new.

Also, is there some tool or formula you used to figure out the chain length, and sprocket distances? Just curious...

[stopintime]

....

Also, is there some tool or formula you used to figure out the chain length, and sprocket distances? Just curious...

You have no idea what a genious I am 

, but sometimes it's nice to have online tools  http://www.gearingcommander.com/
(just check that the input is correct)(they insist on a 103 link chain... 103 doesn't exist)

When I play around in there I'm mostly interested in the chain/sprocket/sprocket-combo lifespan component (at the bottom) and the sprocket to sprocket distance which decides where the axle will be in it's eccentric circle. Most axles sit at about 5 o'clock stock and if you, from there, increase the sprocket to sprocket distance by +/- 10 mm it's at 3 o'clock. The eccentric circle has a radius of 15.5 mm, so the length and height difference between 6 o'clock and 3 o'clock is 15.5 mm. Quite a big change in height and axle distance - it affects the ride. Frequent mistake done when people try different chain lengths and sprockets is to end up with the axle at 12 o'clock which lowers the rear of the bike by 31 mm... "why is my bike not turning?" 

[RBX QB]

...
I honestly don't know whether to blame the 14t up front for the quick wear, or myself. ...

Yourself?  

I'm running the 14/42 as well, and replaced my first chain at 12k (my clean and lube habits are HORRIBLE). I just replaced again at 24k (still haven't learned about the cleaning habits). Next time, I may switch to 15/44 or 15/43 (but I doubt my cleaning habits will improve, will let you know in approximately 12k miles). Both sprockets are nearly immaculate (I don't flog the bike very often).

The first chain was terribly kinked, but the second wasn't nearly as bad, maybe only half of the kinks.


None of this information helps you, but I just wanted to share.

[stopintime]

Lubing has helped me avoid frozen links, but it's the flogging that kills my chains - stretched beyond acceptable after 8K miles every time (pull it out, rearward, more than half a tooth = new chain)

[corey]

You have no idea what a genious I am  

, but sometimes it's nice to have online tools  http://www.gearingcommander.com/
(just check that the input is correct)(they insist on a 103 link chain... 103 doesn't exist)

When I play around in there I'm mostly interested in the chain/sprocket/sprocket-combo lifespan component (at the bottom) and the sprocket to sprocket distance which decides where the axle will be in it's eccentric circle. Most axles sit at about 5 o'clock stock and if you, from there, increase the sprocket to sprocket distance by +/- 10 mm it's at 3 o'clock. The eccentric circle has a radius of 15.5 mm, so the length and height difference between 6 o'clock and 3 o'clock is 15.5 mm. Quite a big change in height and axle distance - it affects the ride. Frequent mistake done when people try different chain lengths and sprockets is to end up with the axle at 12 o'clock which lowers the rear of the bike by 31 mm... "why is my bike not turning?"  

I understand what you're saying... sort of...
What should I do to avoid this situation? Will changing to the 44t create a problem?
Is there a way to tell what position the axle is in when putting the chain on, and is there a certain position i should set the axle in when installing the chain to avoid this issue?

[stopintime]

You can see where the axle is from the top, rear and probably the right side of the bike - it's probably where it should be, but smart to make sure and have some peace of mind.

As I said, 15/44 with a 106 chain moves the axle 3 mm from your current position - rearward and maybe lowers it a little bit (depending on where in the eccentric circle it is now). That's not something most people notice.

15/44 = no problem.

[corey]

You can see where the axle is from the top, rear and probably the right side of the bike - it's probably where it should be, but smart to make sure and have some peace of mind.

As I said, 15/44 with a 106 chain moves the axle 3 mm from your current position - rearward and maybe lowers it a little bit (depending on where in the eccentric circle it is now). That's not something most people notice.

15/44 = no problem.

Awesome. Thanks for the help man.
In all honesty, i've got my rear preload jacked so high to compensate for my fat ass (i know... it's not the RIGHT way to do it) that a slight lowering might be a good thing!

I'm pumped to tackle this project. Love doing new things.
I'll try and take some pics and post up some of what I learned... but it doesn't look TOO difficult (famous last words)

[stopintime]

In all honesty, i've got my rear preload jacked so high to compensate for my fat ass

If the preload is compensating, not overcompensating, then the ride height with you on it isn't higher than it's supposed to be. Don't worry about the minor changes from this swap - it's not as important as I make it sound (other than for really nerdy idiots who build their Monsters into semi-sharp track tools. Like me)

[corey]

Alls well that ends well. Chain install – even as my first one – was without a doubt the smoothest going project i've attempted on this bike. Dare I say, I actually even enjoyed it. The new sprocket and hub carrier and lightweight chain even feel like they've made a difference in acceleration, and the 15/44 has given a BIT more length in each gear compared to the 14/42.

Very happy overall. I'll post pics once I clean up all the grease fling from the chain's packaging.
The EK chain did however come with a clip-style master link, which is being replaced shortly with a rivet style.

Stop, thanks again for the help main. 106 links was dead on.