Battery DEAD! 2007 S2R1000... what to get?

[nickshelby500kr]

never buy lithium battery, they are not ready for the market. (I have bad experience with them now)

It is balistic that was mentioned above. Red 8 cell battery. Voltmeter was showing 12-13V at delivery but it was not able to start engine. Had to charge it first time(ads says it is ready to use after purchase). 3 month later(now) it can not start engine with 13V shown on dashboard. Have to recharge this shit. My old 4 y.o. lead-acid battery was good and never need to recharge even after 5month winter, I just wanted something modern. It was bad idea.

you probably just developed a dead cell. Running on only 7 cells would not give you enough cold cranking amps to turn the motor over.
High CCA makes it easier to turn a motor over, the more/ larger the cells the higher the amperage.

Dead cells is common regardless of lead acid or litium iron.

[ducatiz]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3X0XDY/ref=ya_aw_oh_pii

I got one of these a while back, 2 years?

$45 with a small trickle charger, can't beat it.  I think it's the same on your bike.

[koko64]

In reply to kokis.
Such batteries require 14+ volts to be fully charged. They are pretty flat at 13V.  Think of them as 13V batteries. Great technology, but require correct charging for what they are.

I like the Shorai batteries. They like 14-14.8V. Some of these batteries prefer a specialzed charger.

[kokis]

you probably just developed a dead cell

I did nothing.

[He Man]

In reply to kokis.
Such batteries require 14+ volts to be fully charged. They are pretty flat at 13V.  Think of them as 13V batteries. Great technology, but require correct charging for what they are.

I like the Shorai batteries. They like 14-14.8V. Some of these batteries prefer a specialzed charger.

what he said.

on a lead acid, dead flat is something along 10v.

on a lifepo4, its closer to 12.7. YOu may see 12.7 and think thats fine, and you keep cranking it and all your doing is throwing it deeper in the hole. personally, i had a ballistic, and went back to a lead acid. I commute in the winter and all the cranking on and off and on and off really kills LIFEPO4 batteries, especially if you have to spend a good amount of time warming it up first. if you dont ride in the winter, or dont want ot shell out for an oversized battery then this may not be a problem.

[Rudemouthsky]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3X0XDY/ref=ya_aw_oh_pii

I got one of these a while back, 2 years?

$45 with a small trickle charger, can't beat it.  I think it's the same on your bike.

Dang, that's a great deal.

[ChrisK]

Again, I've had my Ballistic for close to a year now. Never had it on a trickle charger, I commute approximately 1 mile to work daily, I ride my bike in temps as low 30 degrees F, and I keep it in an unheated garage. Bike has never not started because of the battery and I've cranked it quite hard after multiple jet changes when I couldn't get it to start because of fuel delivery. Still fires the bike over just as fast right now as the day it arrived.

I also need to add, in regards to Kokis' comments on Ballistic and lithium batteries, that Ballistic recommends a 12 cell for any Monster larger than the 796. I don't know which model you have, but could that be the root of your bad experience?

The OP and his 2007 S2R1000 would need the 12 cell.

[ducatigirl100]

shorai

[kokis]

Looks like I was wrong about Ballistic battery and have to take my words back.
After test and attempts to start bike I have to say that battery keeps 13+V and 9A and its power is pretty solid. Probably I have not battery related problem in my bike that prevents engine start. Will update.

[superkain]

I bought a battery local from batteries plus just to have it immediately. Terrible idea, i have to keep it on the tender overnight, or it is dead by morning. Just ordered the Yuasa, and going to return this other one. freaking garbage.

[ChrisK]

Looks like I was wrong about Ballistic battery and have to take my words back.
After test and attempts to start bike I have to say that battery keeps 13+V and 9A and its power is pretty solid. Probably I have not battery related problem in my bike that prevents engine start. Will update.

I had similar symptoms last fall and since I found the fix, I tell anyone with similar symptoms to try what I had to do. Check the three wires (mine were yellow) that run from your alternator cover to your regulator/rectifier. Mine were burnt and melted so bad that at one point all three wires were touching each other. This was a sign that the rectifier had gone bad. I fixed the wires, replaced the rectifier and I've been golden ever since.

[SpikeC]

 While at my local Duck dealer I mentioned that my Bimota battery was original, and prolly 5 years old, so I was thinking of replacing it, butt it was holding a charge really well. He said that the Yuasas seemed to be good for up to 7 years if taken care of, and that has been my and my friends experience over the years. The key is taking care of them, I think.

[HotIce]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3X0XDY/ref=ya_aw_oh_pii

I got one of these a while back, 2 years?

$45 with a small trickle charger, can't beat it.  I think it's the same on your bike.

Wow, super deal. Does it hold up? 

[HotIce]

Wow! 480 CCA ... at a price though  

http://antigravitybatteries.com/yt12bs-16/

[ducpainter]

Minor detail...

CCA and CA are not the same.

4. CCA, CA, AH and RC. What are these all about? These are the standards that most battery companies use to rate the output and capacity of a battery.

Cold cranking amps (CCA) is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 ° F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. So a high CCA battery rating is especially important in starting battery applications, and in cold weather.This measurement is not particularly important in Deep cycle batteries, though it is the most commonly 'known' battery measurement.

CA is cranking amps measured at 32 degrees F.