Lost the rear in a turn.

[pesto]

A pic of my sidestand. You can see where it's been scraped pretty badly. It's actually bent ever so slightly, which would explain why I might not have heard it before I lost traction.

Edit: God that's embarrassing. I gotta get some pics because I know my knee is out, but it's obviously nowhere near where I think it is .

[Triple J]

There ya go.   Side stands are actually easy to scrape, so don't feel bad.

You just have to get your ass off of the seat. When I was learning I would actually feel for the edge of the seat to be at my butt crack. Getting your ass off the seat should be the absolute 1st thing you do before a turn...before braking, downshifting, or anything. Actually...when you exit one turn, put your butt where it needs to be for the next turn. Don't even bother with putting it in the midle of the seat.

Upper body is a bit harder IMO. To help with this I do 2 things -- 1) lead with my head into the turn a split second before I turn, pushing the bike away from me (best way I can describe it); and 2) make sure my outside arm is relaxed and resting on the tank, not sticking up and stiff.

[pesto]

There ya go.   Side stands are actually easy to scrape, so don't feel bad.

You just have to get your ass off of the seat. When I was learning I would actually feel for the edge of the seat to be at my butt crack. Getting your ass off the seat should be the absolute 1st thing you do before a turn...before braking, downshifting, or anything. Actually...when you exit one turn, put your butt where it needs to be for the next turn. Don't even bother with putting it in the midle of the seat.

Upper body is a bit harder IMO. To help with this I do 2 things -- 1) lead with my head into the turn a split second before I turn, pushing the bike away from me (best way I can describe it); and 2) make sure my outside arm is relaxed and resting on the tank, not sticking up and stiff.

That's pretty much what the control rider said. "Bud, you gotta just...man...you just...you just gotta get off of your ass!" or something to that affect. I think I really need to concentrate on your 2) about your arm. I definitely feel like I'm using the handlebars to brace yourself while I'm positioning my ass instead of my core, and as a result my arms are really stiff and I get shook like I'm part of the suspension. My arms get really tired. Thanks so much for the tips I think what I need to work on next track day is becoming clear!

[sgollapalle]

Is 28psi a misprint? That is way low for a tire at operating temp, even if it is cooling off some. You are not on race tires or at race pace, after all.

I've never tracked a bike, but that sounds pretty low.

The stock I believe recommends 36 psi on the rear. Even if you were compensating for heating on the track I wouldn't think you drop it that much. May be that contributed some..

[Slide Panda]

28 in the rear at the track isn't shocking. Of course things vary by bike and tire - but you might be shocked at how low a pressure race rears are run. And it can vary a lot by bike

With Dunlop street rubber, Q2 and now Q3s I've been running 27 in the front and 25 in the rear at the track on my big super moto and I could probably drop the rear a touch without over heating the tires as I've not had hot tear issues. But.. get too soft and the bike gets lazy and heavy feeling, so a compromise needs to be struck

I just picked up a Triuph 675 track bike and the PO logged a bunch of info, including tires and pressures that were in the high 20's running on Super Corse SC1/2s in the advanced groups.

Now, for some tires that may be too low and it was causing the tire to overheat and get greasy - but that's just speculative as we only know 'street tires' and they can vary a lot

[pesto]

Definitely worth checking in to, SpikeC. According to the M696 manual:

Tyres
Front tire pressure:
225 kPa - 32.63 PSI (2.25 bar - 2.29 kg/cm2).
Rear tire pressure:
250 kPa - 30.46 PSI (2.50 bar - 2.55 kg/cm2).

So upon closer inspection 30/28 doesn't seem too aggressive.

[Dirty Duc]

Definitely worth checking in to, SpikeC. According to the M696 manual:

Tyres
Front tire pressure:
225 kPa - 32.63 PSI (2.25 bar - 2.29 kg/cm2).
Rear tire pressure:
250 kPa - 30.46 PSI (2.50 bar - 2.55 kg/cm2).

So upon closer inspection 30/28 doesn't seem too aggressive.

Somebody's math is wrong... 2.5 bar = 36.4 PSI

On the S2R, I've noticed low pressure in the rear to affect the handling faster than low in the front. 

But I run mine counter to lots of advice, so my advice is probably worthless.

[pesto]

Somebody's math is wrong... 2.5 bar = 36.4 PSI

On the S2R, I've noticed low pressure in the rear to affect the handling faster than low in the front. 

But I run mine counter to lots of advice, so my advice is probably worthless.

Upon closer inspection, all of those numbers =~ 36psi except the 30 psi number! WTG Ducati =).

[ducpainter]

I've always run 30/28 cold in Michelin street tires on the track. It works great, and what you may be forgetting is you are looking to achieve a certain hot pressure. The reason for starting low is to allow the extra temp that will build from aggressive riding to not raise the pressure too much.

I run 22lbs in a Michelin race rear on my 996.

[Slide Panda]

I run 22lbs in a Michelin race rear on my 996.

Shocking!

[Triple J]

Dunlop NTec race tires are 21 psi HOT for the rear...usually start with about 19.5 psi cold.

[$Lindz$]

Of course it varies slightly per track, but I run my Dunlop NTec Slicks at 31 psi front, 23 psi rear on the warmers and adjust per track and conditions.

'07 R6 race bike 125/80, 200/55.

[SwiftTone]

On my RC52 I run 28/28 on Michelin pp3. Stock tire pressure calls for 36/42. At the end of session in at 32/35.

It actually looks you washed the front. Which would explain it if you are stiff with your upper body. Are those dark spots on the track slick? Support yourself with the core and the tank, open up the inside, more you butt inside, BEND the inside arm and kiss the mirror.