2003 Monster 620ie w.72 miles - Getting it running again

[koko64]

Listen to Howie (he's an elder statesman around here).

We are worried about that in line carb type filter being spat off and spraying fuel all over you and the hot motor. I run a similar filter, but my carb type fuel pump only runs 3 psi. You need the correct lines, clamps and in tank filter rated for EFI.

We look after our member's safety!

I'll leave the 87 octane explanation to Howie.

[ducpainter]

I'll chime in on the 87...

the older version Ducati's were low compression engines. High test fuel will do nothing more than carbon up the combustion chamber and empty your wallet quicker.

[Mr.Maim]

I'll chime in on the 87...

the older version Ducati's were low compression engines. High test fuel will do nothing more than carbon up the combustion chamber and empty your wallet quicker.

WOW, no kidding? I had no idea! That is great advice thanks ducpainter and Howie!

[Mr.Maim]

Fill it up with 87.  I'm guessing the filter you added is external and after the pump?  Get rid of it and replace that fuel hose with SAE 30R9 hose, 30R10 for any in tank hoses.  Do chenge the in tank filter before starting.

Listen to Howie (he's an elder statesman around here).

We are worried about that in line carb type filter being spat off and spraying fuel all over you and the hot motor. I run a similar filter, but my carb type fuel pump only runs 3 psi. You need the correct lines, clamps and in tank filter rated for EFI.

We look after our member's safety!

I'll leave the 87 octane explanation to Howie.

Okay, that makes sense (fuel pressure). I'll reluctantly remove the inline filter but I have to say that I've run them on every bike I've ever owned, though nothing has been fuel injected so I see the point.

Can anyone refer me to a suitable in-tank fuel filter that is a direct replacement for the Ducati filter? I don't see a part number on it, just a date of 12.03.02 and it reads "DucatiMotor Made in Germany". I'll have to remove the filler cap assembly again. Those little grub screws are a PITA.

[DarkMonster620]

Can anyone refer me to a suitable in-tank fuel filter that is a direct replacement for the Ducati filter? I don't see a part number on it, just a date of 12.03.02 and it reads "DucatiMotor Made in Germany". I'll have to remove the filler cap assembly again. Those little grub screws are a PITA.

Your answer regarding the fuel filter:

I'd not worry too much about the tank interior.

It can be dealt with if she decides to keep it.

I would change that fuel filter while you have it accessible.

NAPA 3032 is an inexpensive substitute for the OEM filter.

[Rudemouthsky]

It seems like the rust is bothering you, so why not get rid off it? Evaporust is a fantastic product, a quart size container will wipe out that rust in ten minutes for under $10 from Harbor Freight or Summit Racing.

[Mr.Maim]

Alright, new internal filter and fuel line in hand. This should make you guys happy. NAPA was out of SAE 30R9 compliant fuel-injector hose so I went the the next up which is also fuel-injector hose... "Gates Fuel Injection Hose 5/16 INCH 225 PSI WP BARRICADE GreenShield Technology" printed on the hose. Its still flexible enough to make the bends needed.

QUESTION: will the fuel pump being off prevent the tank from dumping its entire contents when I remove the current fuel line (except the fuel in the line of course) or will the whole thing just piss all over the place? How should I handle, suggestions?

I'm going to work on this tomorrow morning.

[Mr.Maim]

Also, I know the audio isn't great but does this sound right? Is sound really gear-y for lack of a better description. Sounds like my Chevelle did after I replaced the camshaft chain with a gear drive. Oil is brand new and I was sure to turn the engine over a bunch before connecting the spark plugs to get lubrication up into the cylinders, and of course all the attempting to start it when it would not run further brought lubrication into the engine I hope. It just sounds like there is a LOT of gear noise. My GF says that she does not recall it sounding like that, but it has been a long time since she's heard it run last. Its the "whirring" sound you can hear upon deceleration.

Short start, throttle and idle sessions the oil in the sight glass goes down then comes back up after the engine is turned off so oil is going somewhere... thoughts?

[Speeddog]

Unless that hose is 30R10 compliant, it will not survive being inside the tank.
30R9 is OK for outside the tank.

Did you replace the cambelts?

Audio is indeed dodgy, but I'd be looking at the cambelt tensioner rollers to make sure they're turning freely and smoothly.
And checking belt tension when it's cold.

[Mr.Maim]

Unless that hose is 30R10 compliant, it will not survive being inside the tank.
30R9 is OK for outside the tank.

Did you replace the cambelts?

Audio is indeed dodgy, but I'd be looking at the cambelt tensioner rollers to make sure they're turning freely and smoothly.
And checking belt tension when it's cold.

The new hose is to replace the hose the I cut to add the in-line filter outside the tank that others have advised against. The hoses inside the tank for the Napa filter appear to be fine.

I did not replace the cam belts or check the cam belt tensioners. Looks like this is covered in section 4.5 or the technical guide. I don't see anything about checking proper belt tension. Any suggestions?

It also looks like the cam belt change interval is 12,000 miles or 3 years whichever comes first.  <sigh...>  I should replace them shouldn't I?

As always, thank you Speeddog.

[Speeddog]

IMO, yes, replace the cambelts.
Relatively cheap compared to the aggravation and repair bill subsequent to a failed belt.

Some folks use microphones and laptops and software, pluck the belts like a guitar string, and set the belt tension that way.

Other folks set it so that an allen wrench can slip through between the belt and fixed pulley, 6mm on vertical, 5mm on horizontal for the older air-cooled bikes, like yours.

[Mr.Maim]

IMO, yes, replace the cambelts.
Relatively cheap compared to the aggravation and repair bill subsequent to a failed belt.

Some folks use microphones and laptops and software, pluck the belts like a guitar string, and set the belt tension that way.

Other folks set it so that an allen wrench can slip through between the belt and fixed pulley, 6mm on vertical, 5mm on horizontal for the older air-cooled bikes, like yours.

Great thanks for the advice on how to check tension.

Is replacing the timing belts something that can be done by a person with reasonable mechanical skill and a full mechanic's tool set? To replace them, how do I establish TDC between the crank and each of the cam pulleys? I've done timing belts and timing chains on cars...

[DarkMonster620]

Hope this helps . .

http://www.ducatisuite.com/beltchange.html

[Mr.Maim]

Hope this helps . .

http://www.ducatisuite.com/beltchange.html

  I bow to your awesomeness! Thank you. My Google-fu is not doingwell today. Looks like I'm going to have ample opportunity to use my Snap-On Digital Techwrench torque wrenches.

Now to order up some belts. Any suggestions on a source? I want to be sure I'm getting NEW Stock, not New Old Stock. I understand that the new belts are kevlar reinforced, is that correct?

[koko64]

Our sponsors have belts at good prices, both oem and Exactfit belts.