Tank Cleaning (eff the Kreem)

[Matticus85]

Long story short I dropped my bike, had the tank dents removed and then was told the KREEM was the way to go to line the tank around 2005. 8 years and MANY clogged fuel lines and carb rebuilds later I'm still trying to get it right. The Kreem liner seemed to flake (or never set up) and clog the lines.  I have attempted to remove it from the tank using the tank kreem remover they sell as well as MEK I recently heard worked. I also have used THE WORKS toilet bowl cleaner I read was good for cleaning the tanks and removing the rust built up.  The  MEK soaked over night and after draining and  seeing what came out I cant believe the bike has even ran over the past 2-3 years since I first tried to remove the Kreem. The stuff that came out and chunks of kreem liner were incredible. 

Situation now is, has anyone had this experience with a Monster tank where it seems you can never get this stuff completely out?   Does anyone have any success with cleaning these tanks or suggestions?

All thoughts and ideas for a solution are welcome, Insults for using the Kreem will be tolerated.

- Matt         

[ducpainter]

I've had good luck using multiple rinses of fresh MEK.

[Matticus85]

Ducpainter,  After the multiple rinses do you do anything to line the tank?  All I have heard is fog it with wd 40 and keep it full of gas. 

    - Matt

[ducpainter]

I've always used POR-15.

I have recently been contacted by two of my customers that have had flaking/peeling issues. One was one very small spot directly below the filler opening, and the other was a major peeling issue. I recently re-did a tank for a friend who's tank was coated probably 10 years ago by someone else.

I'm not sure if there is a product problem with ethanol or just the random occasional failure.

I've been using it for many years and these 2 or 3 failures have just come up.

Fogging with WD-40 is a waste of time IMO.

[ducatiz]

The old formulation of Kreem was a urethane somesuch that was very susceptible to ethanol but also, a lot of people would use it without getting rid of all the rust in the tank.  The rust prevented the kreem from fully adhering.

With a metal tank, you need to rinse to get rid of the rust too, which is why the Bill Hirsch kit is the best.. they use the same basic formulation as POR15 but have been around much longer.

You may never get all the Kreem out but the good news is that the two part coatings are strong enough to seal over it in small places BUT you have to make sure to get rid of all the MEK or whatever solvent you're using and then rinse with a compatible solvent for the new coating. 

"The Works" is a base solvent and works very well, but it is diluted.  Marine Clean is the same stuff (as is the Purple stuff) and is not diluted.  However, I don't think they will bother the urethane goo.  Keep using the MEK and try warming up the tank while it's in there.  The heat will make the MEK more aggressive and loosen the Kreem.

Even better, get yourself a wire brush.  I saw a "ball" type wire brush years ago and wish I had bought 100 of them.  Stick your arm in with the brush and scrape whatever you can.  You'll do more damage to the Kreem than just MEK will.  MEK will give you contact dermatitis and eczema so cover up (I know...)...


edit:  found them, theyare cheap now  http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/1292324484/free-shipping-wholesale-Can-be-vertical-SIMS-wire-font-b-brush-b-font-to-clean-the.jpg

called a wig brush...

[Matticus85]

 
  Thanks,  The problem is these Monster tanks seem to be chambered.  I have never seen a breakdown of one but its extremely difficult to get in there in any way.

[ducatiz]

If the filler assembly is removable, then you can get enough of your arm in.  They aren't chambered, just convoluted.  I forget if the carbie monsters have the removable filler setup as on the carbie SS models.  It takes a lot of effort and cussin' but you can do it unless your arms look like Popeye's.

[ducpainter]

When I coat with POR after removing Kreem I do the whole process which involves the Marine Clean wash, then the acid etch, rinse, let dry, and then the POR.

No traces of MEK after the Marine Clean.

No interior access on a carbie.

[ducatiz]

When I coat with POR after removing Kreem I do the whole process which involves the Marine Clean wash, then the acid etch, rinse, let dry, and then the POR.

No traces of MEK after the Marine Clean.

No interior access on a carbie.

Yeah, thats the Bill Hirsch kit in a nutshell.

[HotIce]

I propose an alternate solution.

• Fill tank with tannerite
• Move out at 200yrds
• Aim
• BOOM!

[the_Journeyman]

That'd go boom.

JM

[Matticus85]

Ive considered blowing it up but buying another tank would mean probably going through the same process again.

[mgrisham]

MEK dermatitis is nasty. Many years ago I dipped a stopped wrist watch in MEK. It started up again (minus numerals and all other paint) then made a wreck of my wrist. Stopped two days later; I took it apart and the MEK had distributed tiny flecks of water throughout, which turned to rust. A watchmaker's friend MEK is not.

[ChrisK]

When I coat with POR after removing Kreem I do the whole process which involves the Marine Clean wash, then the acid etch, rinse, let dry, and then the POR.

No traces of MEK after the Marine Clean.

No interior access on a carbie.

DP,

Do you let the chemicals drain out just the fuel outlet hole and leave the rest of the openings plugged? Also, what's your method for ensuring a tank is dry (hair dryer, fan, etc.)?

[ducpainter]

DP,

Do you let the chemicals drain out just the fuel outlet hole and leave the rest of the openings plugged? Also, what's your method for ensuring a tank is dry (hair dryer, fan, etc.)?

On a carbie tank I let things drain out of the fuel outlet and the sender hole. I have a sender nut I made a rubber block off that seals well, and the local hardware store has an assortment of corks. I use fuel line plugged with bolts for FI tanks along with an old cap holder and a rubber stopper. Sometimes I'll dump rinse water out of the filler. Be aware the Marine Clean will streak low gloss paint and the acid will mark it too so dry any spillage immediately. I've never found a good way to avoid some chemicals from getting under tape or any other protective material It's easier to just be diligent about wiping. Full gloss tanks will polish right up from any chemicals. Don't get POR on the paint. If it dries it won't come off without sanding and buffing which is impossible on a Dark.

To dry, I turn the tank upside down and blow air into the filler with a heat gun on low and all the openings unplugged. Keep the heat gun about a foot away or you can scorch the paint on the tank bottom. Go ahead...AMHIK.

On a fuelie tank I'll mop out the excess water with paper towels while it's upside down simply because you can't get all the water out of those. On a carbie you can get almost all the water out the fuel line fitting.

It typically takes a couple of hours to dry.

I coat them as soon as they're dry to avoid excessive flash rust.