Starting problem

Started by Qomomoko, December 25, 2013, 02:06:48 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Qomomoko

Hey fellows,

Marry X mas and happy holidays.

after trouble shooting it appears that my selanoid is no allowing current through to the starter so plan on taking it off, cleaning he contacts of the selanoid. Hope that works. Any advice on it would be nice. Looks like after I loosen some of the wires, the selanoid can be pushed down out of the support. Will get a photo up soon for a visual.


For information,

I was having trouble starting the bike since the weather got cooler in Miami. So I thought it was the temp and cooler wires that were not allowing enough juice through to the starter. It would take a couple of pushes of start button and cranks before it would go. But once started and warm it would turn back on easy.

After putting her away for a couple of days because of crazy holiday drivers, i went to start her and she would just click, you could hear the starter selanoid clicking.

and now here I am.

Its a 2002 S4.


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10202194970528600&set=a.10201863734287901.1073741826.1019478952&type=1&theater

ducpainter

"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



DarkMonster620

could be a "low charge battery" . . . try taking the battery to test and charge, if this doesn't help then it could be the solenoid . . . I almost spend the $100+ on one . . .
Carlos
I said I was smart, never that I had my shit together
Quote from: ducatiz on March 27, 2014, 08:34:34 AMDucati is the pretty girl that can't walk in heels without stumbling. I still love her.
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth."

Howie

Quote from: ducpainter on December 25, 2013, 02:13:47 PM
Where's Spike? ;D

[clap]

Charge the battery and have it load tested before going further.  Still have the problem?  Start trouble shooting.  Could it the solenoid?  Sure.  More likely high resistance in the starter circuit or a bad ground.  This link should help you.  http://www.autotechnician.org/starter-voltage-drop-test-explained-in-plain-english/  Yes, it for a car, but same system.

By the way, the solenoid is not serviceable, it is a sealed unit.  You could attempt to get it apart and back together, but it will no longer be water tight

memper

Maybe also check that the grounds are clean and tight. Did I read somewhere that ducati has at times been known to have weak ground connections?
"Calling a bikini fairing on a monster a fairing is like calliing a girl in an actual bikini proper work attire....unless shes a stripper." -He Man

-----------------------------------------
Important: always check your battery filter and regularly change your headlight fluid.

kokis

#5
1 charge battery
2 try to start
if fails
3 connect power directly to solenoid input
if turns - bad news- dashboard replacement
if fails
4 connect power directly to solenoid output
if turns - replace solenoid
if fails - problem with starter

also clean kill-switch, check side stand sensor.
Quote
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=65383
[/s]

disregard this - it is for next gen monsters.
I am not pro in tech questions, but as any rider have some experience that I can share without claiming to absolute truth. Please use my advices responsibly.

Qomomoko

Motorcycle will not turn over. Get 14 V on battery, when turn switch on, read 13 V. At the starter lead +, and the starter solenoid, read 12V. Tried start pushing he bike and did not start.

Before it stopped starting, I have having trouble starting it cold. It would take 3 to 5 attempts. Once warm it would start right up.

I believe the starter motor is fried, so want advice on how to replace it. Read that need drain oil. Why? Also need remove the alternator fan cover. Is it the one pointed in the video?

If fried, why did it fried? From too much current for too long when starting it cold? Why was it not starting right up when cold?

Here is a link on youtube.


ducpainter

Did you ever get your battery tested as suggested in your other thread?
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



ChrisK

In addition to what he said ^^^

The alternator cover is on the left side of the bike. You have to remove that because, to remove the starter you have to slide the starter gear off, which is behind the alternator cover. There's also, I believe, three bolts behind that cover that hold the starter motor on. This is also why you have to drain the oil.
1998 M900
2007 CBR600RR Track Bike
1982 Virago 920 Cafe/Fighter Project
1980 Lambretta Moped
Supra Boats enthusiast

"There is no minimum."  - some guy.

Qomomoko

Yeah, tested the battery and they say is says "REPLACE"

sucks.... Battery is less than year old, been on battery tender and bike started once a week. Voltage on battery is 14 V and when open switch drops to 12-13V

We applied a jumpstart/charger to the starter motor, with battery disconnected, + to the + lead on starter and the neg to the started case; no movement or noise, nothing

the ground of the battery should be good. I thought the ground would go to engine but saw a ground going to the right side of the bike to metal plate that is attached to the fuse box. See pic, its the left of two bolts.


ducpainter

Before you condemn your starter why not replace the battery, clean all the connections...and by clean I mean disassemble them and really clean them, and then do any testing and see if the bike starts?
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



Howie

Quote from: Qomomoko on January 20, 2014, 03:04:10 PM
Yeah, tested the battery and they say is says "REPLACE"

sucks.... Battery is less than year old, been on battery tender and bike started once a week. Voltage on battery is 14 V and when open switch drops to 12-13V

We applied a jumpstart/charger to the starter motor, with battery disconnected, + to the + lead on starter and the neg to the started case; no movement or noise, nothing

the ground of the battery should be good. I thought the ground would go to engine but saw a ground going to the right side of the bike to metal plate that is attached to the fuse box. See pic, its the left of two bolts.



If you did the above correctly that would indicate you need a starter assuming the engine is not seized.  This would mean you got a good bite on positive and negative and your jumpstart/charger actually has the power to turn the starter motor, which most cheap home units don't.  You said your battery is shot.  14V open cell voltage?  Some sort of lithium battery?  I'm too lazy to go back to the original thread.  Anyway, if you need to replace the battery I strongly suggest you follow ducpainter's addvice.  That starter motor is both pricy and pretty damn bulletproof.

Qomomoko

Thanks guys,


will use a battery of my R6, which starts right up.

X fingers that is the problem.

If not then will buy battery and try again, Any recommnedations?
The one I had bought was I thought and expensive one to last a while
Shorai Inc Lithium Batt 18Ah 12V Eq,"A"1 LFX18A1-BS12 $150

In case its easy, the ground, is it on the motor? or like I said on a metal plate next to the battery near where the fuses are?

ducpainter

Not sure where on your bike, but there are undoubtedly more grounds than the one on the metal plate.

Do you have a wiring diagram?
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



Speeddog

The ground cable goes from battery negative down to the upper right rear of the cases, next to the rear motor mount.

Disassemble, clean, and reassemble that connection, as well as all of the positive cable connections; solenoid and starter.

Be careful removing and installing the cable at the starter.
You *do not* want the stud to turn.
- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~