2011 Monster 796 starting issues (updated with video)

[Husker4life]

My monster has been having some issues starting. About 80% of the time, it won't start. All that will happen is a loud click. I found that if I just push the bike a little in first and let clutch out and spin the motor a little bit, it will start right up with no issues. I talked to the Ducati dealer out here in Oahu, and they can't offer any insight to what the problem is, and just wants me to pay them to look at it. I am a very confident mechanic with cages, but motorcycles are a new world for me. Any insight would be greatly appreciated before I drop money at the dealer.

Here is a link to the youtube video I just made.


/R,
Derek

[Speeddog]

Battery on a tender?

How long do you usually ride?
Perhaps not long enough to fully recharge the battery between starts?

[DarkMonster620]

Are you still within wty limits? Do you have extended wty?

If I understood correctly, it wont start most of the time but it will start if you engage 1st gear and spin? the motor? So, basically push starting the bike, right? Or did I miss something in translation?

I'd say it's your starter motor or as usual in Ducatis, a bad ground somewhere . . . Hard to say if not actually seeing what's happening

[ducpainter]

When it won't start...

does the motor turn over?

[Husker4life]

It is my daily driver. I just don't understand why it will start right up after the engine is turned manually by letting the clutch out while rolling in 1st gear.

I push the start button after the motor turns from pushing and it fires right up like normal.

The motor does not turn when it won't start. Just a loud click

[DarkMonster620]

[Husker4life]

The only difference between not starting and starting is a slight turn of the motor from a push

[Howie]

All I can think of is a combination of a weak battery and some stiction issue that frees up from the push.  First step is to fully charge the battery and have it load tested.  Any difference if you disengage the clutch?

[Husker4life]

I made a quick video of what is happening. Not the greatest, but it shows what is going on.



Thanks again for any input.

[Howie]

Starts right up it does indeed!  Maybe a dead spot on the starter, but don't run out and buy one.  I'll do some thinking.  Still under warranty?

[stopintime]

Do you always stop it with the key? Or the kill switch?

If so, can you try it the other way?
No specific reason, just curious...

[Husker4life]

I bought the extended warranty, so I still have a little over 2 years of that. I just don't want to take it in and be told that it is something that isn't covered and I am out a couple hundred dollars.

[Husker4life]

So, I have been trying to figure out the issue. I have verified my solenoid is working properly. I am getting just under 12.2 volts at the starter when I push the start button. The starter does nothing. How can I verify it is the starter and not a grounding issue?

[Howie]

To test for high resistance in the ground circuit, take your volt meter, positive on the lug on the starter, negative to negative on the battery.  Hit the starter button.  If you get a reading of more than .5 volts you have a bad ground.  To narrow it down from there each wire or connector should read less than .2 volts.

Once you have determined the ground circuit is good when the bike does not crank apply 12 volts directly to the starter without rolling the bike.  If it now cranks, probable starter dead spot.  Repeat test, if the results are consistent off to the dealer for a warranty repair.  Less accurate than opening and bench testing the starter wich would surely void your warranty.

Just for the halibut check your connections at the battery, cheap and easy.

[Husker4life]

To test for high resistance in the ground circuit, take your volt meter, positive on the lug on the starter, negative to negative on the battery.  Hit the starter button.  If you get a reading of more than .5 volts you have a bad ground.  To narrow it down from there each wire or connector should read less than .2 volts.

Once you have determined the ground circuit is good when the bike does not crank apply 12 volts directly to the starter without rolling the bike.  If it now cranks, probable starter dead spot.  Repeat test, if the results are consistent off to the dealer for a warranty repair.  Less accurate than opening and bench testing the starter wich would surely void your warranty.

Just for the halibut check your connections at the battery, cheap and easy.

When I connect the positive to the post on the starter and negative on battery. I am showing 12 volts when I press the start button. I am not very good with electrical stuff. Am I reading your suggestion wrong? Why would I want to see less than .5 volts when I press the start button?