best place to wire in for 12v

[lpgoldtop]

I'm looking into hardwiring my GPS and maybe some lighting onto my 2013 m1100. What I'd LIKE(like being the important word here), is to power these accessories when the ignition is switched on without drawing current from any of the computerized controllers(ECU, DTC, ect...) I'd prefer to avoid using piggy-back terminals(the things that bite into the shielding to hook 1 wire to another). I've read about using a relay triggered by the lighting circuit, but I'd like to get in from the ignition switch or after the fuse with a clean and secure connection if possible. Are there any known terminals or open spaces on a connector in any of these circuit? I realize this is a relatively new bike and most people don't know the electronics inside out yet, but If you have a similar model(fuel injection ,ABS , CAN bus lines) I can use that as a reference. I'm not apposed to replacing connectors to achieve more terminals(changing a 4 pin connection to a 6pin of the same or similar manufacture to add 2 wires). I've had zero experience with Ducati electronics aside from accessing the battery to wire in my powerlet.  I'm pretty handy with wiring and electronics, but most of my bikes have carbs and breakers, not computer ECUs, 30 pin connectors, and relays...so I'd like some advice before I rip into a sensitive system like this.

[Skybarney]

I am also hard wiring my GPS/phone to the bike.  Not a cheap solution but I bought a SWmotech click lock tank bag with an electric tank ring.  I am certain it wires in at the battery like you jacket did.  While the wiring will not support a heated jacket it will support phones I-pads etc etc.  Best thing is that it locks to the tank.  They also have a nifty holder for a GPS or a phone or a tablet.  Check out their stuff it is super well made.

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/brand/sw-motech-bags-connection?tank_bag_type=281

[lpgoldtop]

update: I found a 2-pin connector under the seat that is working for now. Not sure what it's supposed to be for, but it had a plugged cap on it, so I figured it was for something not on my model or possibly a diagnostic tool(although problly not with just 2 contacts). Couldn't find it on my wiring diagram, but it puts out 12v with the ignition on so it suits me for now. I'd like to know what it's for though before I modify the connection or put anything else on the circuit. I found the connector on a parts site listed as a "fan connector". Maybe a factory consideration for a cooling upgrade? Anyway, as soon as I can get my hands on new TE superseal terminals I can make a reliable connection at least for the GPS.

[SpikeC]

 Do you still have the exhaust valve under the seat?

[lpgoldtop]

I think so. There's a black box with two cables coming out of it underneath the seat. I think that's probably it...

[Skybarney]

update: I found a 2-pin connector under the seat that is working for now. Not sure what it's supposed to be for, but it had a plugged cap on it, so I figured it was for something not on my model or possibly a diagnostic tool(although problly not with just 2 contacts). Couldn't find it on my wiring diagram, but it puts out 12v with the ignition on so it suits me for now. I'd like to know what it's for though before I modify the connection or put anything else on the circuit. I found the connector on a parts site listed as a "fan connector". Maybe a factory consideration for a cooling upgrade? Anyway, as soon as I can get my hands on new TE superseal terminals I can make a reliable connection at least for the GPS.

Most dealers install a battery tender two pin outlet.  That would be what you found ( :

[lpgoldtop]

Most dealers install a battery tender two pin outlet.  That would be what you found ( :

I doubt it's that.my dealer did put in a traditional accessory connection. That was wired direct to the battery. this is a water proof automotive connector like most of the sensors use.up by what seems to be some sort of ecm and the cables for the exhaust valve thingy.

[Howie]

A photo might clear things up.   The diagnostic connector has 4 wires.  As far as GPS goes, tapping off any non computer wire (such as lighting ) should work since amperage draw is low. Do use the fuse that comes with the GPS For additional lighting you need to tell us the wattage.  There are two spare fuse holders.  You can run a wire from the ignition switch run side to a spare fuse if the draw is low (doubtful), otherwise use a relay powered by an ignition on circuit.  #1 fuse would work for that.  There is a wiring diagram in the back of your owners manual.  Keep in mind, if you break it you own it.

[lpgoldtop]

A photo might clear things up.  

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http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w588/lpgoldtop/Mobile%20Uploads/20140201_141944_zps3ikgpe19.jpg

[lpgoldtop]

For additional lighting you need to tell us the wattage.

nothing decided yet. Lets use a 15 amp circuit as a working hypothesis...I like to have some headroom.

[lpgoldtop]

there connector with the red bezel showing is the 2 pole I'm talking about.

[oldndumb]

The connector pictured could be for troubleshooting the ABS system.......or not. I am still learning about this bike and hope someone can give a definitive answer.

Ref. Item 62 in the shop manual electrical frame routing section.

[lpgoldtop]

Ref. Item 62 in the shop manual electrical frame routing section.

Shop manual for what model exactly? I haven't been able to find one for the 2013 M1100 yet. I have a wiring diagram in the owner's manual, but couldn't find a 2 post connector with those colors (red/black and red/green I think it was).

[oldndumb]

Shop manual for 2012 100 EVO ABS.

I also could not locate the ABS diagnosis conn in the wiring diagram. It seems that the manual treats the ABS system as part of the Chassis Groupand does not include an electrical schematic. I also looked at the parts fische and it does not discriminate regarding the conns at that end of the harness.

The only reference I could locate was in the wiring routing section which I mentioned earlier. Item 62 seems to be the only 2 wire conn and is identified as ABS Diagnosis.



I understand your concern with the Mickey Mouse wire splice pieces which bite into the wire and/or pierce the insulation. Re-pinning a conn is always best. But, when it is not practical, I strip the insulation, solder an auxiliary wire and try to use weather proof heat shrink. When the heat shrink is not practical, I use two coats of Liquid Tape. That is basically what I did when I spliced into the tail light circuit for my GPS. But, I am not a very good electrician and other more qualified members probably can offer more advice. Almost forgot, I have a very good friend who is an electronic God and he advised me to not depend on the frame for a ground connection. He trained me to either splice into an existing ground wire, or to run a new one to either the engine ground point or the battery.

[lpgoldtop]

I am 90% sure that it IS the #62  connection. And in that case, I'll leave the harness end stock. Perhaps Make an adapter cable to plug into it to fit my needs without altering the stock harness. wouldn't want to void that warranty...