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Author Topic: Signal Wiring/ LED  (Read 3778 times)
xallhopelstx
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« on: July 09, 2008, 07:31:56 AM »

I just got an 05 S2R 800, and the stock signals are killing me. I want to do an integrated tail light in the back and just get smaller signals for the front. The only problem is I am not familiar with electronics and wiring at all really. Is this a task that shouldn't be too difficult for me. Any tips or instructions on how to do this are greatly appreciated.

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muscle_cars_only
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« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2008, 10:36:16 AM »

Brake light hooks up the same, on the signals you will have two leads. turn your signal on and touch a lead to the positive wire of one of the signal wires, if it's the correct side plug it up then hook the remaining to the other positive.if it's the wrong side just swap to the other positive. No ground is needed,it's grounded through the brake light. Takes all of 5 min from start to finish to install.
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whaler
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« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2008, 08:24:15 PM »

In addition to what muscle_cars_only said, you will most likely also have to address to flasher relay. When installing LEDs on a bike/car/motorized wheel chair, or X wing fighter, usually the the stock flasher relay is Thermal. In that it requires the load of the incandescent lamps to operate at a normal rate. Running LEDs off a thermal flasher will cause them to flash rapidly, and throw fellow motorists into epileptic seizures.

Many people use load resistors in parallel with the LEDs to simulate the load of a normal bulb. The problem is these resistors can get very hot if your sitting at a long light. You best bet is to replace your stock flasher relay one with an electronic version. I picked one up at a local auto parts store for $10. Not sure what configuration your flasher relay is, by my 01 750 had a 3 prong one which I replaced with a Triton Stant EP35.

Good luck!
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xallhopelstx
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« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2008, 10:00:38 PM »

In addition to what muscle_cars_only said, you will most likely also have to address to flasher relay. When installing LEDs on a bike/car/motorized wheel chair, or X wing fighter, usually the the stock flasher relay is Thermal. In that it requires the load of the incandescent lamps to operate at a normal rate. Running LEDs off a thermal flasher will cause them to flash rapidly, and throw fellow motorists into epileptic seizures.

Many people use load resistors in parallel with the LEDs to simulate the load of a normal bulb. The problem is these resistors can get very hot if your sitting at a long light. You best bet is to replace your stock flasher relay one with an electronic version. I picked one up at a local auto parts store for $10. Not sure what configuration your flasher relay is, by my 01 750 had a 3 prong one which I replaced with a Triton Stant EP35.

Good luck!



Thanks for the tip. Ill have to check on the flasher relay and what its like. I have seen some resisters for sale with these as an extra option. Do you think that is the way to go, or should i replace the flasher relay instead. I dont want anything super heating up under myseat.
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muscle_cars_only
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« Reply #4 on: July 11, 2008, 06:54:48 AM »

relay...if you arent running
lEDs in the front no relay is needed.
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roy-nexus-6
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« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2008, 07:44:14 AM »

Thanks for the tip. Ill have to check on the flasher relay and what its like. I have seen some resisters for sale with these as an extra option. Do you think that is the way to go, or should i replace the flasher relay instead. I dont want anything super heating up under myseat.

Whaler and I are running similar LED signals.

Now, I mounted thermal resistors under my seat - heat really isn't a problem.

However, Whaler's solution is much more elegant, and if I was going to do it again, I'd definitely follow his suggestion. waytogo
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whaler
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« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2008, 09:31:27 AM »

relay...if you arent running
lEDs in the front no relay is needed.

Not necessarily...  most thermal flashers are sized to loads under which they will operate. IE, the flasher is designed to run two 1157 lamps, or whatever. If you loose a lamp, the relay operates faster, as a bulb out indicator. If you were to replace your rear turn signals with LEDs, then the flasher would only be seeing the load from one bulb, and the slight draw you would get from the LED, making it think a bulb was out, and flash faster.

If the integrated taillight is being wired in parallel with the OEM rear turn signals, then your right, the OEM flasher will work fine.

This is all under the assumption that the stock flasher is a thermal one. My advise.... wire it all up. If your flashing too fast, pull the flasher relay out and take it to the local auto parts store. Tell the guy behind the counter what you got going on, and they should be able to set you up with the proper electronic flasher relay.
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xallhopelstx
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« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2008, 10:51:59 PM »

Wow. Thats a lot of info, but thanks everyone. im sure ill be able to figure it out Cheesy
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Capo
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« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2008, 03:36:27 PM »

The flasher is electronic contained within the instrument cluster.
It is a design requirement to indicate a bulb failure by increasing the flash rate, this is acomplished using a comparator circuit.
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« Reply #9 on: August 11, 2008, 03:25:04 PM »

relay...if you arent running
lEDs in the front no relay is needed.


i can second this.
i am running the stock signals in front, and the integrated LED in back.
no relays. works perfect waytogo
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