Fire in my exhaust (2001 m600)

[Dellikose]

Remember that, after all of this is sorted, you're going to need to synchronize your carbs too.

[Radracer6]

Will try that. I know I keep coming back to this but could it be simply the fuel screws are set out too much? Or would that not affect the plugs as much

[Dellikose]

It's possible. Try one thing at a time - it wouldn't hurt and start ruling things out.

Just make sure you do the sync last.

[Radracer6]

Update

I put in new plugs and I rode the bike around. Still felt slight hesitation at the initial throttle open coming off the stop light but ran strong after 2k rpms and up.

Howie I tried turning in the idle mixture screws. The bike turned off when I had the screws about 1/4 turns out.

On the initial test ride I had them out 3.5 turns. I turned them in to 3 turns out and revved it a bit and seemed to not have some of the hesitation but could be the bike was properly warmed up at that pt.

how long before the new plugs will give me a good reading? I didn't ride more than 5 to 10 mins this time and pulled them, just saw slight grey coloring at the electrode but that's it.

[Howie]

Did you sink the throttles yet?  After that, find someone with an exhaust analyzer and check that the CO is between 3 and 6%.  If it is, your problem might be with the pilot jet.  Also, keep in mind the bike will never be silky smooth at low RPM.  Over the  internet we have no way of knowing how your bike is running.  You also need to rule out mechanical problems like a weak cylinder or vacuum leak.

[Radracer6]

Yes I've synced them.

I'll also have another look at the new plugs since the old ones were in before the snorkels were removed, new filter and exhaust. How long do I need to ride before they give me a decent reading?

[Dellikose]

Take it out for a normal ride. When you get home, try to hit the kill switch when the RPMs are near cruising speed if you can. Don't let the bike idle too long before checking the plugs, it will be less accurate.

[Howie]

Take it out for a normal ride. When you get home, try to hit the kill switch when the RPMs are near cruising speed if you can. Don't let the bike idle too long before checking the plugs, it will be less accurate.

Yep, cruise, cut ignition, coast to the side of the road and check.  Obviously not on a road with traffic band observe extreme caution.  probably won't tell you much about your off idle transition problem though.

[Radracer6]

Great thanks.

The off idle hesitation is when I blip the throttle from idle.  I'm  really thinking it's because the idle mixture is too rich with the mixture screws being out too much.

Factory pro instructions said 3.5 out which is where I had them, while stock setting is 2.5 out and ducati suite recommended 2.75 out with factory pro on his 750. I will fiddle with that some more.

[Radracer6]

Update. So i pulled the new plugs and heres what i saw

Front cylinder if im readinng right is running ok. Top looks grey.


Now the rear looks lean


I am thinking i may have an air leak? When i first got the bike it felt like it had no power on the highway and would continually rev up if i opened the throttle slightly. I found there were cracks in the hose that went from the crankcase blowoff to airbox. Once i taped that hose up it ran an revved correctly and power was back.

Now I'm experiencing the same symptoms again so I'm thinking air leak again and with the lean condition on the second plug. I sprayed some wd40 on the boots and the trumpets of the airbox but nothing. Looked over everything and didn't see much wrong. I saw cracks in the hoses coming off the carbs to the pods on the side so i taped them up and cut out the cracked pieces. What yall think? Am i missing anything looking for this airleak? Can the vacuum lines coming front the vacuum petcock and fuel pump into the intakes be causing a leak?

[SpikeC]

 Sounds to me like you need to replace a bunch of rubber stuff and not just tape it up.

[Howie]

The pod hoses will not cause a vacuum leak, nor will the boots from the air box to the carbs.  Replace the bad hoses to the pods any way.  Keep in mind, the fat ones have filters.  The hoses to the pump and fuel shut off will though, as well the hoses to the charcoal canister if you still have one, or poorly sealed vacuum taps if it was eliminated.  Also make sure the intake runners do not leat where they attach to the carbs and heads.

[Dellikose]

One other place to look is if you have caps on the vacuum taps - they get brittle pretty quick.

[Radracer6]

The hoses to the pump and fuel shut off will though

yes I'm thinking these may be it, only hoses i didn't replace, will check these asap.

vacuum taps if it was eliminated,

One other place to look is if you have caps on the vacuum taps - they get brittle pretty quick.

you guys mean where the nipples for the evap canister used to be attached to the intakes? There are bolts on there.

ok cool thanks for the info will check.

[Howie]

Yes.  The seal can be not so good.  A little RTV sealer on them is a good idea.