Remove bushing from clutch cover - advice please

[MonsterDamo]

I've removed both my clutch and alternator side covers from my ol' 620. The years haven't been kind to them, and I needed to get at the stator.



As I intend to have them powdercoated and because the misc OEM parts are inexpensive I figured I'd do it "right" and remove all bearings, sight glasses, seals, etc.

I'm stuck on this one, though:



The plastic bushing that sat inside it pretty much fell to pieces when I removed the circlip, so I figure there's no going back now. Has anyone had any success removing this one short of machining it out? I've heard references to using heat but I'm really not sure how to approach that.

Thanks!

[ducpainter]

There's no need to remove that bushing for powdercoating.

Just get a new seal.

[MonsterDamo]

From what I can see from exploded parts diagrams, that top cup piece appears to be part of the original seal so will need to come out.

[zippsub9]

I powdercoated mine with that one in, ducpainter is right on. 

[MonsterDamo]

I get that you CAN leave it in, but the situation I have is that the bushing seems to have come apart so will need to come out.

[Speeddog]

That is indeed the steel cup that is the structural part of the (former) seal.

Judicious use of a dremel with a small carbide burr is the only way I know of, short of somehow setting it up in a mill and boring it out.

Working in one area, you can dremel through *just* the steel cup, then carefully pry or with a small chisel and hammer, and collapse the ring inward.

Possibly, if you lay the cover mating face down in an oven, heating to 300 degF, it may fall out.
Use caution, as some oven owners are averse to baking of engine parts.
Making sure the cover is as oil-free as possible will also reduce the chance of setting off the smoke alarm.

[ducpainter]

From what I can see from exploded parts diagrams, that top cup piece appears to be part of the original seal so will need to come out.

I missed that. I was looking at the brass bushing.

I've had luck grinding a bevel on a tapered punch and getting between the seal body and the case and collapsing the metal so you can get a hold of it with some vice grips

[MonsterDamo]

I missed that. I was looking at the brass bushing.

I've had luck grinding a bevel on a tapered punch and getting between the seal body and the case and collapsing the metal so you can get a hold of it with some vice grips

That's kind of where I'm at now. This thing just won't let go! I think it's gonna leave some chew marks on the case underneath.

[ducpainter]

That's kind of where I'm at now. This thing just won't let go! I think it's gonna leave some chew marks on the case underneath.

Marks can be lightly dressed with some paper and some non hardening sealer used to avoid leaks.

If the marks are at the outside edge of the bore chances are they wouldn't cause a leak.

[MonsterDamo]

Good lawd... that was an ordeal...

This is the aftermath:



Does that still look serviceable?

[ducpainter]

Clean off the high spots and install a new seal.

I think you'll be fine.

[Speeddog]

Clean off the high spots and install a new seal.

I think you'll be fine.

+1.

Thoroughly clean that oil gallery in the cover.
Oil flows up from the bottom, where the O-ring is on the case (make sure that's there on reassembly).
You don't want it pumping swarf into your crank, then to the rod bearings.

[garryc]

Following this project with interest .
When you get the covers powder coated do you need to block off/mask the seal cavities case bolt holes etc?
If so what with

thanks

[ducpainter]

Following this project with interest .
When you get the covers powder coated do you need to block off/mask the seal cavities case bolt holes etc?
If so what with

thanks

All gasket/o-ring mating surfaces, threaded holes, and seal bores should be masked.

The coater will have the stuff to do it.

[zippsub9]

Should, yes, but often the faraday effect takes care of thread holes.  I mask all gasket surfaces with aluminum tape, great stuff, bake, then clean off glue residue with acetone.  I use aluminum foil to make most stuff when spraying.  Cork also works great for larger holes and wont burn since it is a flame retardent, but make sure it is legit cork.  I coated my case laying flat on a tray, so any powder that wisks back up on the back side, minimal to none, wont be floating debris as it will bond during the baking process.

But, yes, if you take it to someone they will use silicone plugs more than likely.