already stuck: front calipers won't come off front rotors/wheel

[zippsub9]

Torx seem easier to strip IMO, be careful.  I just used the leverage of a breaker bar and it is easy with the wheel laying flat.

[aftriathlete]

First time these things have probably ever been taken off the wheel. How much heat can I safely apply to these bolts? The guy at Lowe's said I need to heat the bolts until they're glowing, but I'm concerned about the wheel bearings.

[zippsub9]

No not that hot, I use a heat gun on 700 for about 2 min.  I never used heat on those bolts. 

[ducpainter]

I just use a hand impact driver and a 3lb hammer...no heat.

They come right out.

[aftriathlete]

Maybe I'm just not using a big enough hammer with this impact driver, I'm using a little 13 oz light duty hammer. Maybe it's just not transferring enough energy through the impact driver. These bolts are frozen on!

[ducpainter]

Get a real hammer...

I use one of these... http://www.estwing.com/s_drilling_hammer.php

Don't miss.

[aftriathlete]

Man I could write a beginner's manual for mistakes to avoid the first time you take your front end apart. 

1) $19 is too cheap for an impact driver apparently.  The one I got at Advance Auto Parts is loose and flimsy, and when you strike it some sort of metallic dust comes out of the inside of it.  The handle is too soft as well, and after all the pounding I was doing on it today, the end of the handle is slightly flattened.

2) Use a large, heavy hammer with an impact driver.  At least a 20 oz hammer.  The 13 oz light duty I started with tends to skip around and, given how hard you have to swing it to get some energy out of it, you can imagine that can be a bit dangerous.  Which leads to my next point...

3) Make sure the fold of skin between your thumb and your index finger doesn't wanted up to the striking surface of the impact driver.  Ouch...

4) Don't touch a bolt on these bikes without hitting it with PB Blaster and a heat gun first. 

5) For Torx bolts, save yourself the headache and start with a new, high-quality Torx bit.  If you think your Torx bit is even remotely rounded, get a new one.  These Torx bolt heads are SUPER EASY to strip out.

6) If you're hammering on your wheel, make sure you have a significant layer of padding underneath.  The single layer of foam I had down under the wheel was not enough given how much hammering I had to do today, so I ate right through that foam layer down to the concrete below.  My right side hub surface is nice and pockmarked now and in need of a wet sand. 


I got the front rotor bolts off, and I only need to replace 4!  The project continues!

[zippsub9]

Misery loves company, it is good to know i am not alone in this world of motorcycle madness.

[aftriathlete]

Do the clutch and front brakes need to be bled down if you flip the coffin reservoirs upside down?  The reservoirs weren't opened, but does flipping them over when you're removing handlebars and flipping them out of the way to get the top triple off let air into the lines?

Apparently this has become my Noob Project thread.  This is the best forum I've ever been a part of as far as responsiveness and knowledge of the members though, so thanks to all. 

[ducpainter]

It's possible you could get an air bubble, but most likely only if you depressed the levers.

[aftriathlete]

Copy, no I haven't actuated the levers at all.  I'll add clutch and front brake feel to the list of things to watch for when I get everything put back together.  Next step today is getting the top triple machined out to 53!

[zippsub9]

Scott, i will use a little forsight here from what i recall. 

I did same with reservoirs and as ducpainter said, just dont actuate and any bubbles will come right back up.

I used some plastic interior trim tools (plastic wedges) basically to help pry open the lower triple for insertion of the new forks.  Your old ones will be fine to take out and shouldnt be hard.  The new ones with the shim are definitely snug since it will have to take shape as well.   It is not necessarily a two man ordeal but lots of slow twisting and sliding.  Of course hou dont want to ding them all up as well.

I highly recommend a heavy dead blow or rubber mallet for removal and also replacing the top triple.  While you are there, i went with the tapered steering head bearings.  It was a nice touch and i am sure a few others may recommend them at this time.  I think they are 50 bucks but well worth it.  All ballz bearings are out of pennsyvania so they get here quick.

[aftriathlete]

Good advice man. I got the stock forks out and the stock triple off; I imagine it will be a bear to get the new forks in with the shims. I thought about the tapered bearings also, but with all the tools I bought due to not having a significant set of tools before this project, I am maxing out the wife's approval meter already.

Speaking of bearings though, in spraying PB Blaster on the rotor bolts, I got some on the wheel hub seal. Am I safe or is this stuff gonna get in there and do something I won't be happy with? I'm assuming there are bearings and grease in there.

[zippsub9]

As far as I know, the PB won't have any breakdown effect on the grease or bearings.  The bearings are sealed and the outer seal you hit is designed to keep out dust and dirt.  I don't see any issues with it.  Any residue will burn off quickly and only leave behind any dust collected.

[oldndumb]

 aftriathlete, Good for you for recognizing that you were in slightly over your head but not too proud to ask the right questions. Much to be learned here from some very knowledgeable members. You also learned not to take motorcycle advice from a Lowes clerk.   

Re the impact driver, my experience with most of them is that they work much better if you initially disassemble them and clean all of the crap and cheap grease and liberally lubricate it with BelRay grease or similar. Being frugal, I can't speak to the name brand ones.