already stuck: front calipers won't come off front rotors/wheel

[aftriathlete]

So starting to take everything apart, and it is not going well.  Anyone ever have trouble getting the front calipers to fit over the front rotors when removing the front wheel?  I have the front calipers loose from the fork legs but they won't fit off the rotors within the limits of the wheel well.  It looks like I need another quarter inch, I just can't figure out what the hell.  I'm not the first owner, so would aftermarket pads extend further towards the front axle than stock?  Do I have to take the calipers apart?  Or do I have to take the front rotors off the wheel to slip them out of the calipers?

[aftriathlete]

Should mention: 2011 monster 796. First time taking the front wheel off since I've owned it, trying to swap to 848 forks. Off to lowes to figure out what I need to tap out these stripped front rotor star-head bolts.

[DarkMonster620]

So starting to take everything apart, and it is not going well.  Anyone ever have trouble getting the front calipers to fit over the front rotors when removing the front wheel?  I have the front calipers loose from the fork legs but they won't fit off the rotors within the limits of the wheel well.  It looks like I need another quarter inch, I just can't figure out what the hell.  I'm not the first owner, so would aftermarket pads extend further towards the front axle than stock?  Do I have to take the calipers apart?  Or do I have to take the front rotors off the wheel to slip them out of the calipers?

You just need to wiggle it a little, they do come off . . .

[aftriathlete]

Man I am cranking on this thing nothing doing. Doesn't seem like there's anyway I can pry any harder without scratching the hell out of the wheel. And the front rotor doesn't give at all. But I take it that it's usually difficult to get them off?

[DarkMonster620]

Man I am cranking on this thing nothing doing. Doesn't seem like there's anyway I can pry any harder without scratching the hell out of the wheel. And the front rotor doesn't give at all. But I take it that it's usually difficult to get them off?

Not so hard, a bit tedious but they should come off

try taking the pads out . . remember to not pull the lever . . . I have a 1/4" piece of wood that I usually stick between the pads to simulate the rotor . .  but, since you will be taking the pads out, try getting something about 3/4" to put in between the pads once you have taken the calipers off

[ducpainter]

Take the calipers off.

[aftriathlete]

I wish I could man! Do you mean take the pads off?

[ducpainter]

I wish I could man! Do you mean take the pads off?

Remove the calipers from the fork legs and away from the rotors.

You may have to use the rotors to push the pads back to have clearance.

It was put together, so it has to come apart.

[aftriathlete]

So I wound up able to pry the calipers off the rotors -- it really seems like it's going to be be a PITA to get them back on there when I'm putting everything back together.  I'm surprised my wheel didn't get scratched, honestly!  Chalk it up to beginner's knowledge -- I really didn't expect the calipers to take that kind of prying to get off.  But I guess it shouldn't be surprising -- they make everything to the tightest tolerances in an effort to save weight, so there's not gonna be extra room engineered in anywhere. 

So now the next challenge is getting the rotors off so I can put the rotor spacers in.  Got two of the bolts off on the right side but 3 are hanging tough.  I hit them with PB Blaster, waited 10 min for it to soak in, and went at it with an impact driver.  No luck yet.  I watched some videos on youtube to make sure I was using the impact driver correctly, since I just bought it tonight, and it seems like I am doing it right.  So my only recourse right now is to give the PB Blaster the rest of the night to soak in and try to hit it again tomorrow I guess.

In my head, I thought everything would come apart easily and this would be an easy swap.  And then your cheap/soft steel Torx-head rotor bolts are frozen in place.  I guess I should get used to the idea that nothing on a Ducati is easy.

[Howie]

There is sufficient clearance if the caliper pistons are fully retracted.

[aftriathlete]

There is sufficient clearance if the caliper pistons are fully retracted.

So how do you get the caliper pistons to full retract?

[Howie]

Just push them back evenly into the bore.  An old brake pad or equivalent and channel locks will do. You might want to protect the finish with a cloth.  Do make sure there is room in the reservoir for returning fluid.  Also, after the bike is together squeeze the brake lever a few times so the pistons return to proper position or you will be in for an unpleasant surprise.

[aftriathlete]

Gotcha, I'll keep that all in mind for when I'm putting it all back together. 

I just found the thread on front rotor bolt difficulties -- at least I know I'm not alone.  I'll try the butane torch on it tomorrow along with the impact driver. 

[zippsub9]

Sorry i am late to this one.  Just take out the pads, no need to force back the pistons, the calipers will come off the rotor with no pads.  I hate using the rotor to push back pistons any way.  I always get nervous of bending a button.  Plus, it is easier to reseat the pistons once the caliper is off and the wheel is out of the way.

[Speeddog]

To help with the rotor bolts, use a pin punch and a medium hammer.
Put the punch straight in the Torx hole, give it two or three sharp whacks with the hammer.