Showa 41mm fork rebuild help

[Stre7ch]

Greetings,
I'll try to keep this concise and brief. My forks were leaking. I'd never replaced seals before, but wanted to learn. A yokel hick decided to show me his way of doing it, which consisted of tapping in the seals with a screwdriver, and not a fork seal driver. Me knowing nothing of it at the time allowed this. The forks still leak, go figure. That said, he also damaged a part that doesn't seem to exist on any schematic. It's a 94 M900, and we need to get this taken care of so we can sell it soon, and get a bike my wife and I can two up tour on. So, here I am left with the following questions: does anybody have these parts, or can ID them?, and could someone confirm that the order designated in the Haynes manual is indeed the proper order.




Basic layout, the way we put it back together. The mystery part was the one that was hammered back in with a screwdriver, and now it's bent. It was also used as a striking surface to force the seal into place. For the record, I advise no one to do this, hind sight is 20/20.










This part was intended to replace the mystery part, but as you can see from the previous pic, it's quite a bit thicker.




Here's the kicker. Thing is, if both the schematics I have available to me don't have the part, I obviously can't get a part number, or even a name. The other problem is this, if these schematics are so far off, then can I trust that this is the correct installment order? Someone please advise, I'm sick of having to pull these things apart, and I just want the job done!!! 

Thank you in advance for any help. 

[DarkMonster620]

I don't see it mentioned in the OEM Shop Manual . . . so, have no idea from where it came

[Speeddog]

I've never seen a washer in the location of your 'mystery part' on any Ducati forks I've had apart.

The schematic that you show is the same as the parts catalogues, no 'mystery part'.

Make sure the surface of the fork leg that contacts the seal is not dinged, scratched, pitted, or otherwise compromised.
It's common for Monster forks to get pitted by road debris/sand/gravel, which then allows rust to form, creating a barnacle that will annihilate the seal.

Use a seal driver to install the seals.

Check to make sure that those bushings you got (the thick wall ones on the far right in the picture) will fit into the upper leg without the gap butting together.
I've had a set that the end gap was too small, it would have been very difficult to install and impossible to remove.
I filed the gap out a bit to allow assembly.

[MonsterHPD]

Never seen that part either.

Small tip: Use a heat gu to warm the fork leg where the stationary bush and seal goes; they go in much easier.   

[Stre7ch]

Thanks you guys for the replies, I really appreciate the input. So what I'm inferring from you all so far, is that I should ditch these washers, and the retainer clip will but up directly to the oil seal, correct? I should also assume you've all had direct experience with this exact fork? Don't take that as condescending or anything, I just want to make sure I don't have to pull them apart a third time. 

It'll take me a while to heat them up, it's in a pole barn with 0 insulation and 10 degrees out, and all we've got is a little propane heater.

[EEL]

I can speak for others but I've stripped my fork down 3 times (Pretty much the same USD fork as what you have shown). Twice for regular service and once to add racetech valving. Only slightly different because my as off a 2004 M1000.

I can attest that the spacer you are showing is not supposed to be there.

[Speeddog]

Yes, direct experience with that model fork.

Yes, ditch those washers, and the retainer clip will butt up directly to the oil seal.

If your fork has the separate collar that the seals go into, you'll need to restrain that directly to get the bushing and seal seated.
Otherwise it slides down a bit and you'll never get them in far enough.

[Stre7ch]

If your fork has the separate collar that the seals go into, you'll need to restrain that directly to get the bushing and seal seated.
Otherwise it slides down a bit and you'll never get them in far enough.

Not sure what that is, so I'll assume this set doesn't have that. The bushings simply split apart with a screwdriver, and slip on effortlessly. Either way, their on the kitchen table warming up, and they'll be apart later this week.

[brad black]

the separate collar is for adj forks only.  it's rather odd the first time you encounter it.  non adj are just normal outer tube.

if the seals are leaking, the bike is ridden regularly and they're not ohlins, it probably has lower leg damage.  have you inspected or linished them to remove any marks.  replacing seals without doing that will not achieve anything apart from pissing you off.

[Stre7ch]

the separate collar is for adj forks only.  it's rather odd the first time you encounter it.  non adj are just normal outer tube.

if the seals are leaking, the bike is ridden regularly and they're not ohlins, it probably has lower leg damage.  have you inspected or linished them to remove any marks.  replacing seals without doing that will not achieve anything apart from pissing you off.

So far the finish looks really pretty good, save for a couple small marks at the top of the tube, where the seal won't be traveling over. I think I'd like to polish it up regardless. What would you recommend to do so?

EDIT: Ran into my buddy who does metal work. He had me take 1500 grit wet sandpaper to it. Worked like a charm.

[Stre7ch]

Thank you for the help everyone! Took me a few days to squeeze in the time to take care of it, but the forks are done and their not leaking!!!
I used the electrical tape fork seal driver method, I was surprised at how well it worked, for the bushings as well. At any rate, the bike will be done in the next few weeks and I'll post it up for sale here among other boards. Thanks again!