DS1000SS Nekkid Roadster Build

[Lars D]

Damn!!!! Garage is looking good! I am still in a shed with my bikes. Hoping to change that  this spring . 
I wouldn't know what to do with that kind of space.

[Lars D]

You have that palace to work on bikes and nothing.

[Nekkid Tim]

You have that palace to work on bikes and nothing.

So....   I went for a ride on New Year's Day.   I dug out from the Blizzard of 2016.   And I had my 13-year-old nephew Sean over for a garage session while the schools and the government were closed last week.

We worked on the project bike!  Installed a new 520 chain conversion, complete with new sprockets, and showed Sean how to rivet a master link.  Then we fabricated two new aluminum exhaust hangers for the BUB upswept high mount reverse cone megaphones, and installed those.

[Lars D]

That exhaust looks perfect .

[Speeddog]

Something looks wacky on that front sprocket, too much shaft out past the nut.

[Nekkid Tim]

Something looks wacky on that front sprocket, too much shaft out past the nut.

I'm bringing my track bike back home soon, so I'll have a look at it for comparison.

[Nekkid Tim]

A little more progress yesterday.  Removed the airbox and surgically separated it from the battery box, then reinstalled the battery box and electrics.  I also installed the custom clutch line, filled and bled the clutch.  The coils will be relocated on a bracket that will be installed where the airbox used to be.  I have a set of velocity stacks to install after I get that set up.

[Duck-Stew]

Having made that same airbox into battery-holder-only mod, you will need to build a brace between it and somewhere on the frame up front.  The 2 bolts which hold it to the frame allow it to flop back and forth a good bit.  I made mine from aluminum strap and painted it black with the box mount made up high for better support.

All else looks great!

[Nekkid Tim]

Having made that same airbox into battery-holder-only mod, you will need to build a brace between it and somewhere on the frame up front.  The 2 bolts which hold it to the frame allow it to flop back and forth a good bit.  I made mine from aluminum strap and painted it black with the box mount made up high for better support.

All else looks great!

Might be able to tie it in to the bracket I'll be fabricating for the coils.   Dropped by the storage unit yesterday and looked at the track bike (I built in 2012/2013) which I'm using as a model, and I don't have a reinforcing bracket on it.   Will check for signs of movement there when I get it back home, as well.

Oh, and there is definitely a lot less countershaft peeking out past the sprocket and nut on the track bike; so I will have to investigate that as well.

[monsta]

Stu is right...
I made a battery box out of ali and because its more rigid than what yours would be, it fatigued the tabs on the frame that I had it bolted to.
I had to re-weld the tabs and make a brace to the front... solid as a rock now...

[koko64]

Never had an issue with a Shorai battery (minus 4-5kg).

[Nekkid Tim]

Yes, I've used the Li-Ion batteries with great success.   I've run about 10-12 track days on my other DS1000SS (the track bike) with this airbox mod, with a regular size battery installed, but never thought to brace the battery box.   I am interested to check out the track bike - when I get it back home from storage - and inspect it closely for any signs of fatigue or movement.   I'll post what I find when that happens - probably afte I get back from Florida in early March.

[Nekkid Tim]

Something looks wacky on that front sprocket, too much shaft out past the nut.

Perusing the factory parts fiches; it appears that I am missing a spacer that goes behind the sprocket on the countershaft (P/N 713.1.201.1A).  It's on its way along with a couple of other minor parts I need.

[muskrat]

that exhaust looks killer

[koko64]

After looking at the airbox, I got thinkin'.

Have that cut rear battery ignition section and get another airbox sans battery section and bolt or Dzu fasten them together.

Then you remove the airbox baffle panels, put a K&N filter on top of the lid, gut the stock filter and use the filter seal between the lid and airbox. I cut out the filter supports and expoxied them up under the new filter location. Some filters are rigid enough depending on which one you choose. The lid becomes the filter for cleaning. This will maximise the airbox cavity volume by putting the filter as far away from the stacks as possible and make all the airbox volume available to each cylinder on each intake stroke. I got 5 more hp doing this on the too small/shallow carbed airbox. I think the ie airbox is a better starting point. I had a thread on this somewhere..

I have been looking at K&N filters just a little smaller than stock to go on top of the lid, so you have an open airbox lid at the very top. Still plenty big enough. I have used the stock size K&N filter but it's a squeeze. Silicone sealant and the Dremel are your friend.

By having it two piece, you can reroute the harness to a more sane location and have easy servicing access while still having a good airbox. Next would be incorporating the billet stacks into your open, extended airbox. The best of both worlds.