12 M1100 Evo Clicks rapidly and wont pass start-up screen

Started by coryfc21, March 07, 2015, 08:15:18 AM

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coryfc21

Hi All,
So one day my 1100 Evo was running fine, the next day it goes crazy. When I turn the key to ignition I get a hard, rapid clicking sound  and the display screen/everything resets after a few seconds. First I shifted the tank off while leaving everything plugged in to get a better idea of whats going on. The clicking seems to be coming from the starter but I'm not sure why the ECU would reset the bike over and over. Battery is putting out 14.2 and has been well maintained in the winter months. All fuses are good as well. I completely removed the tank and flipped the ignition on again. Now I don't get the clicking but everything still resets. This makes me think there's more than one issue. Any diagnostic and testing advice would be much appreciated.    

-3500 miles with no mechanical mods.
-No longer under warranty and closest dealer is 2 hours.
-Good car mechanic, decent bike mechanic but new to Ducks.
12 M1100 Evo

oldndumb

Starter doesn't have any internal component that would click. I suspect you are hearing the starter solenoid (purists may have another name for it). It is located inboard of the rear edge of the ABS module (big hunk of shiny aluminum). It is round and held in place with a rubber holder. Placing a finger on it while turning the ignition on and you should be able to feel it to confirm this. Do not wear rings or watches when working on DC in tight spaces.

Start with the basics and you will get advice.

This is what I would do. First, eliminate the batt connections by inspecting them at each terminal.  Then meter the positive to an engine point to eliminate the engine ground point as a fault. Then verify the battery voltage at rest, then verify it with ignition on. The light will put a load in the circuit and that will be a better indication of the battery charge status. I do not know what you mean with "battery is putting out 14.2".

d3vi@nt

My money's on a bad battery. Load test it if you can and plan to replace it.
'13 MTS GT
'99 ST2
'07 M695 - Sold

oldndumb

Quote from: D3vi@nt on March 07, 2015, 11:31:42 AM
........ Load test it if you can and plan to replace it.

Which is why I suggested taking a reading at rest and then with the ignition on. That is a type of quick and dirty load test.

I was waiting to see what the reported readings were. I would expect an initial reading of around 12.2ish if good. An initial reading of 12.0 or lower indicates a battery with diminished capacity. These suggested readings are for an AGM batt. I do not know the readings for a LiPo, if that be the case.

Howie

Voltage is only a measure of state of charge.  Stored current (amps) are what starts the bike.  Best is to fully charge and load test the battery.  Yep, you will need to haul the battery to a shop.  Yes, oldndumb's method is a really good indicator if all you have is a voltmeter and need to get the bike going.  You will need to do more though, so report back with the results.  I am also confused about the 14.2 reading.  If the battery is a LiPo, in field testing is still a bit of an unknown, best would be to substitute with a known good AGM battery. 

coryfc21

At the moment it is looking like the battery. The voltage is good but the amperage is gone. Because I live so far for a normal civilization I'll have to wait until Tuesday for a new battery. I've never had nor heard of a bad battery causing symptoms like that. I really that's all it is. If it ends up being something out of the ordinary I'll post about it.
12 M1100 Evo

pumbatq

I had the same thing only it was the starter that was bad, when I tried to start, the screen would flash rapidly. The oil seal between the engine and starter failed and shorted it out. Symptoms were 'barely turning over past the compression stroke', 'flashing screen' while start button pushed, and clicking starter.  My troubleshooting after a new battery then checking the regulator and stator was to bypass the starter solenoid (disconnect the starter lead from the solenoid and jump directly to battery (key off), it should turn over with no problems. Mine didn't. I pulled the starter and disassembled the brush assembly where I found 2 cracked brushes, shorted windings, and the commutators were worn beyond refurbishing. Needless to say, new starter is installed and problem solved.