Ducabike Rearsets Brakefluid Hose

[DarkMonster620]

Thanks for the pics! Where do you put the sensor for the brake light?

the supplied pressure switch

[The ModFather]

what do you mean by supplied? Mine didnt come with a pressure switch. Was it supposed to?

[DarkMonster620]

what do you mean by supplied? Mine didnt come with a pressure switch. Was it supposed to?

My rearset kit came with it . . .

[JohnEE]

You need one of these...

http://www.ducabike.com/isc01-idro-stop-corto.html


On my 695. Connects through the brake line. Looking through my build thread, my kit came with it also.

[Rudemouthsky]

My RIZOMA rearsets came with a provision for mounting the OE switch. I believe you'll need a banjo pressure switch for the DB rearsets.

Oh and McMaster-Carr is the best place to buy Tygon hose, period. Or figure out how much you need and I'll put a piece in the mail for ya no charge, I have extra. 

[The ModFather]

Well after fitting these I was a bit surprised at how much higher they put your feet I know it's just a few inches but it's very noticable. Plus I know the brake pump is supposed to push the lever back out even without the spring on the foot brake lever but mine did not it was stuck in there unless I used my foot to push it back down. So my pads were stuck rubbing on the rotors. Is this cause I didnt bleed the brakes after installing these? I also found my shiftings to have issues not sure if the ends of the shifting rod need to be adjusted for length. Did anyone else encounter any of this. Do you get used to that riding position I found it a bit uncomfortable with my knees up that high.
I know some people are very happy with these but so far.. not me.

[memper]

I have a set of DB (knock off from the UK) rear sets. The height is something to get used to but I went into it with the understanding that these were "racier" than stock. But I dont do much distance riding so its ok. My brake pedal does come back up from the pressure, not sure why yours wont. Perhaps the little drums/pistons on your caliper needs cleaning? Air in the lines?
And as for the pressure switch you can find them for cheap on Amazon. I got one with a 90 degree bend for like $10 or $12.
http://www.amazon.com/Yiding-Motorcycle-Hydraulic-Pressure-Switch/dp/B00BVYDYQ6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1430244157&sr=8-5&keywords=banjo+pressure+switch
Then all you gotta do is splice in the wires with your connector of choice or hard line it.

[The ModFather]

Yeah the brake pedal is definitely not coming back up for that matter even when I push it back up by hand it seems like there's drag on it. I tried loosening the bolt that clamps the lever and foot peg in place and loosened the peg a bit to try and give it space and I even squirted a little WD40 in there to see if it was friction preventing it from coming out. I'm really confused here. I could try seeing if there's air in the brake lines by bleeding a little bit of fluid if that's suspect. If you push your pedal down and then up by hand is it sluggish. Should it come back up freely and easily or should there be a little drag on it so the piston is actually forcing it back up?

[DarkMonster620]

bleed the brake . . .pedal shlould and will come up on its own . . .

place catch tank higher than rear brake master so that air gets to it

[The ModFather]

Catch tank?

[DarkMonster620]

the container you use to catch the brake fluid coming out of caliper

[Rudemouthsky]

If the alignment of the shaft and clevis rod isn't just right, there will be significant drag. I went through this when I reassembled my rearsets. I'd check to be sure there isn't pressure on the shaft causing it to stick before re-bleeding. It should function properly with no fluid in the system, let alone one that isn't properly bled.

[The ModFather]

So I disassembled and reassembled the mounting to ensure the clevis was moving freely. Then I bled the brakes repeatedly. Did get a lot of tiny bubbles and a couple big ones but still no pressure to return my brake pedal. I did have to add more brake fluid during the bleeding process as that rear reservoir is so small just a few times bleeding and it's almost at Min. When I'm adding more fluid am i introducing more air into the lines when I open up the reservoir to add more Fluid? Really stuck here. Do I add more fluid and continue to bleed it?  When I loosen the bleeder valve the clevis sinks easily deep in to the rear brake pump. But after I tighten the bleeder valve and test still no push back from the pump. The brake lever just stays down. I have to manually push it back up. Frustrating.

[oldndumb]

Replenishing the reservoir does not introduce air into the system.

Almost every rear caliper I have bled needed to be removed from the carrier and held in various positions to allow the entrapped air to do what the bubbles want to do naturally......flow upwards.

Once you get the piston operating correctly you will need to ensure that the rod is adjusted to allow some free play and not block the return port. Otherwise your next ride could be shorter than planned.

Don't allow yourself to become frustrated. Remember, you have to be smarter than the machine. 

[Howie]

Brake caliper on the bottom or top?  Bleeder needs to be the high point or air will be trapped.  This gives you two choices; remove caliper, place a piece of metal or wood about the thickness of your rotor between the pads, hold caliper so bleeder is up and bleed or turn bike upside down.  Also make sure you have sufficient free play at the pedal, about 2mm. unless Ducabike says otherwise.  Err on the side of too much.  You may want to figure out a way to get a return spring in there.