s4r only "clicks" when trying to start??

[Eddie851]

Hi,
I took the bike out the weekend before last, and it started on the button first time. I got to the petrol station 1 mile away and when I tried to re-start the bike, every time I pressed the button I got a double "click" that came from the starter solenoid. I waited until the temp was reading "lo" it then started and re-started all day.
Yesterday I went to the same petrol station and the same happened, but this time it never restarted, it just went "click click". I pushed the bike home, tried all three keys' but it still would not start.
I've gone to the bike this morning and its still wont start it still only clicks.
Other than change the petrol station has anybody got any ideas?? 

[Howie]

Charge and load test battery first.

[Eddie851]

Hi,

Just checked the battery and its reading 12.54v, which after all the attempts to start it yesterday I don't think its bad.
when I checked it last week it was charging at 14v

[ducpainter]

That isn't a load test.

[Howie]

Your symptom is an indication of a bad battery or high resistance in the starting circuit.  The test you performed is open cell voltage, which tells you the state of charge, not battery capacity.  A load test applies a load to the battery and tells you it's capacity.  A "shade tree" test you can do yourself is put your voltmeter across the battery.  Hit the starter button.  Voltage goes down below about 10 volts and you probably have a bad battery, but you have not eliminated the possibility of high resistance.  Further testing with a bad battery is like pissing up a rope.

[Eddie851]

Morning,
I hope your still there, I've now done the load test as advised, I put the multimeter on the terminals of the battery and turned the key on. The voltage dropped to 12.05v, I then hit the start button and it remained exactly the same 12.05v 

[abby normal]

I had the same thing, also with an s4r.   Wouldn't restart at a
Gas station.  I then noticed the immobilizer light ... Something
Is (at least in my case) interfering with the communication between
The bike and the rfid in the key.  I pushed the bike away from
The fluorescent lights and it started.  Dealer couldn't find any problem.
If it happens again, check for the immobilized light.

S

[Howie]

12.2 volts is far from fully charged for an AGM, but that is OK.  The fact that you are not seeing voltage drop is an indication that nothing is going to the starter.  If you are sure the solenoid is clicking (sorry, missed that last time I read your post) the solenoid might be bad.  Two ways to check; 1) bypass solenoid with a heavy jumper wire from big terminal to big terminal.  Since you are bypassing all safetys make sure the bike is in neutral.  2) When you hit the starter button check for voltage at the big lug going to the starter.  This assumes your battery connections are good.  Another possibility is the connection to the starter is bad enough to not allow any flow of current (doubtful) or a bad starter.  The connection at the starter is very delicate.

[oldndumb]

............. The connection at the starter is very delicate.

If, by that you mean that it is easy to damage the terminal, that is why I have my own Martha Stewart starter jam nut wrench. 

[Howie]

If, by that you mean that it is easy to damage the terminal, that is why I have my own Martha Stewart starter jam nut wrench.  

[Eddie851]

Hi,
Had another go this morning where the battery was removed and charged over night to 13.2v. so with the battery refitted,
I pressed the start button only to be greeted with the dreaded "double click".
I then put a wire over the two solenoid terminals, I didn't hit the start button, the ignition lights went out but the starter motor didn't turn. Next I hit the start button just as I attached the wire to the solenoid, it clicked only once, the ignition lights went out and the wire fused to the starter motor terminal of the solenoid. 
that's where I've had to leave it as I need to go to work until Saturday when I can have a real go.

[Howie]

Just to be sure the engine turns get the bike up on a rear stand, remove the spark plugs and make sure the engine turns.  No tool for this?  Put the engine in gear and turn the rear wheel.  Engine turns?  Check connection at starter.  Oldndumb's tool is gorgeous.  Mine?  Not so much, I use a cheap Indian wrench that visited a grinding wheel.  Connection good?  Known good battery, positive to lug on starter, negative to unpainted part of starter battery.  No crank, starter problem.  Oh, before that, check the ground at the engine.  Doesn't seem like a ground problem from your tests, but easy enough to check.  Acually, the only thing that makes sense is a connection so bad you vertually have an open circuit.  Also, get that battery properly load tested!  Any decent motorcycle shop should have a load tester.

Hard to tell over the interwebs if you are doing everything right.  Post up in the appropriate local board maybe someone local can help.

[Eddie851]

Hi,
Good news after a sleepless night worrying over a repair bill of thousands of pounds for a seized engine, I'm glade to say it's not.

Tomorrow ill get down and dirty as again im off to work, but a few questions first, as it seems to be pointing to the t**t I bought it off and the work this supposedly engineer did. He removed the water pump and generator cove to powder coat them as the battery leaked and removed the paint (fair enough). But since then every issue has lead there 1,oil leak â€" two pins missing from case. 2, water leak â€" water pump not sealed correctly. 3, retaining pin missing from gear selector. So as you can see I'm more than as little concerned. So back to my issue, is it just a case of removing these covers or are there setting/gaps that need to be set, which I fear he's either neglected or missed?
My first job will be to put the battery to the starter motor direct while in the engine to see if it works before opening the case, but after that im open to suggestions.

[Eddie851]

I've both Good & Bad news,

Yesterday again I was at work so had little time to have a really good look, but I did have a play. I connected the battery directly to the starter motor and with the plugs out it span perfect. I put the battery back on the bike, connected the starter motor lead and battery lead together and turned the ignition on, again I got nowt. I then removed the battery so I could charge it overnight. 
Today I took the battery to my local car spares and they load tested it for me. The reading was 9v, so I then went and purchased a new battery. I returned home put the water in the battery, placed it on charge and went and had my dinner. When I returned, I tried to remove the engine earth to clean it, but it was near impossible to get access so gave up.  Next I reconnected the solenoids connections and put the old battery on. I then connected a bulb and wire to the positive battery terminal, I moved all around the engine touching the starter motor, engine case & solenoid and all lit the bulb up well. Next I connected it to the engine case and hit the solenoids positive side, again it lit. So now I'm waiting for the new battery to charge, I think why not and hit the start button.

AND BAM IT STARTS.

So I'm now none the wiser as to what the problem was/is but I do have a shiny new battery to fit when it's charged.

[Howie]

Well, we are not there to see what is happening, but it is probable your battery was strong enough to crank the starter directly, but not when installed.  There is voltage drop throughout the system.  As much as .5 volts is considered acceptable.  This would make your battery that load tested at 9 volts, a battery that already failed the load test, 8.5 volts installed.  And yes, you needed the battery anyway.