S4RT died mid ride

[Heath]

So with the my headlight set up disconnected (something wrong with it, no point in blowing more fuses).
Gauges plugged in
Fuel pump disconnected
Regulator/rectifier connected or disconnected (did both, didn't make a difference)

This is what my gauges look like. Left turn signal still lit solid.
Hitting the starter does nothing.

[Speeddog]

Did they sweep to that position and then stop there?

[Howie]

After seeing that connector it is possible you ran the battery down.  Hard to believe they kept using that cheesy connector.  Though you probably have an instrument problem, low battery can make electronics go wonky.  Charge and load test battery, repair (or at least clean up that connector) and see what happens.  Worth a try.

[Heath]

Did they sweep to that position and then stop there?

No sweep, I moved the needles when I took it apart. There is no movement on the needles. No back light or info on the displays either. I didn't look at the front of the circuit board when I took it apart but maybe I should. I didn't want to move remove the needles if I didn't have to.

As for battery I have a Shorai and charged it after the incident with their specific charger.

[Heath]

Old HID headlight is removed. Wiring looks good around the front. I'll check the front of the gauge circuit board tonight.

Any fuses to check besides the fusebox and the main fuse?
Any relays to check besides the three by the battery?

[Speeddog]

No other fuses besides the box and the main.
No other relays.

I suspect that your instrument cluster is FUBAR.

[Heath]

Found a broken varistor on my board. Soldered the broken lead back and nothing changed. Ordered a new one to change it out in case it shorted out.

[Heath]

Changed out the varistor and problem still exists. Going to go through the wiring harness now and trace everything.    There is a chip on the board that is getting extremely hot. Looking it up it is a Low Dropout Voltage Regulator. Not sure if that is just because my turn signal is staying on all the time or my board is just getting too much power. Time to hunt down these gremlins.

[Howie]

Another option is a flash to get  rid of the immobilizer and a used instrument cluster.

[Heath]

Another option is a flash to get  rid of the immobilizer and a used instrument cluster.

So if I switch out gauges I have to flash the ECU and get rid of the immobilizer?

[Speeddog]

So if I switch out gauges I have to flash the ECU and get rid of the immobilizer?

Yes, unless you buy virgin gauges.

[bagodoosh]

heath, have you tried connecting to the ECU and checking for codes?

[Heath]

heath, have you tried connecting to the ECU and checking for codes?

No, I don't have the equipment to do that. Trying to solve myself before taking it to my mechanic.

On a site note I did test my regulator/rectifier doing a forward and reverse bias test and it failed. Although that will not fix my problem seeing as the bike won't start even when it's not plugged in like it should.

[Heath]

Can I hook up known working gauges to determine if mine are the problem without flashing the ECU?  I know the bike won't start but will I at least see backlight and a gauge sweep so I know mine are bad?

[DarkMonster620]

heath, where are you located?