WAYWARD 1998 944SS - NEEDS HELP

[Brid]

If the bike continues to start/restart under its own power it is doubtful the charging system has anything to do with your running problem.  The bike will break up when voltage gets low but with a carby that's pretty low and it does not get better or re-start after that.

Carby charging systems are pretty weak but sufficient most of the time. Have you had to keep charging /jump start the battery to get it started?

No - no jump starts. When it came in, it had a duff battery, that was showing 12+ static, but sinking down to 4 or 5 when you hit the starter. New sealed one on it, and it's not done much work yet. This one will take a quick dive to around 10+ when you hit start, but picks up again immediately

[clubhousemotorsports]

So I would not spend the time on the charging system as it looks like it is working and you have bigger fish to fry.

[Brid]

So I would not spend the time on the charging system as it looks like it is working and you have bigger fish to fry.

The charge light is still on, and I am not going to run it with anything like a chance of the battery taking more of a beating than it necessarily has to. We will get a new rec/reg, and proceed!

[Brid]

1998 IGNITER BOX WIRING?
Try as I may, I cannot find a 98 diagram for this bike, and have been muddling my way through with a 96 diagram. Just got a Factory manual 'donated' but unfortunately it is a 91 book 
I know we've had a bit of a chat about the igniter box wiring, but it seems every book I have is different to what I have on the bike. Does anyone have a 98 900SS that they can verify the colour coding?
Here's what I have - looking from back of bike
RH Coil = Vertical cylinder - Grey/ Red on coil
RH Ign Box - Reading from L to R,  2 pin plug = Black/Yellow. 3 pin = Black/Grey/Red

LH Coil = Horizontal cylinder - Green&Brown/Red on coil
LH Ign Box - Reading from L to R,  2 pin plug = White/Red. 3 pin = Black/Green&Brown/Red

Seems both books I have show the LH 3 pin having the Black/Red 'flip flopped', but both books with Green&Brown in the middle. Someone could be playing tricks with this - so, can anyone please confirm? I know the Black is a ground, so - what would happen if these wires are in fact reversed?

[Brid]

Nobody have any 1998SS pics?

[koko64]

Sorry man I don't. I'm a bit lost on your problems since I'm not there helping you over a beer. I know of people that have swapped the wires without ill effect bar bad running but I can't guarantee it won't blow the boxes.

[Brid]

Sorry man I don't. I'm a bit lost on your problems since I'm not there helping you over a beer. I know of people that have swapped the wires without ill effect bar bad running but I can't guarantee it won't blow the boxes.

Tony - that's not what I was wanting to hear -although the "Helping you over a beer" sounds like a winner  None of the diagrams I've seen show any colours on the pick up wires to their plugs, however -the 96 Haynes book I have does at least mention colours, at least for which cylinder is which, - but not the wires in plug orientation. Both books I have show the power wire to the boxes/coils as Brown, and this one is Red. OK - that's not too difficult to figure out. It depends on which direction you look at the 3 pin plug wiring in the books, as they don't have any 3d orientation. A picture of one (even if the power wire is Brown!!) actually on a running bike would put my mind at ease! Whilst waiting for the new Rec/Reg arriving (tomorrow) I have been (again!) checking all the ignition wiring, and came up with yet another anomaly? Where all the coil/box wiring 'necks' down, into the 2 wire plug (on RHS of airbox) it makes sense that one is a power wire (from Stop/run switch) and the other a ground. So - why, with the Ignition switch OFF, and Stop/run switch on Run, do both the pins on the switch side of the plug read continuity to ground? With the Ign switch on, the power wire reads about 11.5 VDC - when battery is over 12VDC. Seems I often fight 'lecktrickery' gremlins - especially on older Jap bikes, but the Italians are generally a bit easier to sort out 

[koko64]

I've asked a mate with a 750 and stock boxes to send me some pics. The 900 I'm working on is Ignitech equipped and all apart.

[Brid]

I've asked a mate with a 750 and stock boxes to send me some pics. The 900 I'm working on is Ignitech equipped and all apart.

Thanks mate - next round is on me 

[koko64]

[koko64]

A buddy up the road sent me these. It's all I got.

[Brid]

That's good Tony - looks like both the Blacks are on the LHS of the plugs, so that answers that -- I'm good there. Got the new Rec/reg installed, but still no difference. Just so happens, the owner came up with another pair of stock igniter boxes (off a running bike) AND, another pair of the very same FCR's - brand new in the box (They ordered 2 sets at the same time, and these (on bike) were the only set used) So - I'm just putting the new ones on -- more news later!

[Brid]

THE GREMLINS STRIKE AGAIN
Well - you'd think you couldn't go too far wrong -- installing a brand new set of carbs - out of an unopened package. They were bought at the same time as the ones that were on the bike, around 2 years ago. I jetted the new ones as per one of Erics Dyno runs --155 mains, 60 pilots, mixture screws at 1/2, and slow air at 1 1/2, with ELV's in 4. I synced them, and set the float levels (were at 10mm - not the 9mm specced) I even put a breather line on them! Sat back and smoked a fag, thinking - yup, a nice set up --- THEN, i turned the petrol on ----- AND, it started pis*ing out of the fuel rail. I disconnected the pump - and it of course slowed down, so I had a stab at firing it up. First off, it didn't want to fire - but finally did, and would not take any throttle at all. Even after a bit of coaxing, it is clearly WAY lean on the pilot circuits, and if I let it return back there - it did NOT want to rev at all. So - I shut it down - wondering if someone forgot to put the bloody O-rings on the rail??
Now we have another completely different set of circumstances, and I've got to pull it all down -- again, and pull the rack apart - to put O-rings in it However - where I had a bike which fired first turn before - now I have one that has to spin up a bit -- so at least - it's a different day, and a different problem -- Sheesh 

[Brid]

THAR SHE BLOWS!!!
See this thing - sitting looking all pretty & innocent on the lift - like nothing ever happened! I pulled the fuel rail and replaced the o-rings, which didn't look bad --  put it all back together -- AND --- it still leaked. Closer inspection found a hairline crack in the plastic T, and - these are new carbs - straight out of the box. So - I had to 'borrow' the rail from the original (the cursed set!) carbs. A couple of hours later, and I'm off like a herd of turtles for a quick test spin -- and YAAAAAHOOOO!! It runs like a train!! I went to a 65 pilot, and at 1 1/2 turns on the mixture screws, it is pretty happy It's off to get inspected tomorrow, then we can do a full 'shake down', and re-jet if needed, but for now - it's running well! Kudos to all here that threw out suggestions, and helpful ideas. I have no idea what is going on with the original FCR's - and I may just have to take them to the bandsaw and cut them apart completely -- hateful Li'l Bastids 

[koko64]