Brembo Red Brake Fluid

[The ModFather]

Anyone have any experience using this Brake Fluid? It was recommended to me by someone else using it on a Monster,  I know it's made for cars but I'm considering using it for my Sport 1000S & Monster as I've got the clear Tygon Tubing on the reservoirs and the red fluid would look great. But I dont want to compromise safety or damage my brakes or components. I was told you do need to completely flush the existing fluid to avoid mixing the two.

http://www.racetechnologies.com/products/additional/htc64-brake-fluid

[DarkMonster620]

Write to them and ask . . .

[stopintime]

They write about not caring about wet boiling point - which on a street bike is kind of important. However, we 'never' get close to either dry or wet boiling point, so this fluid isn't changing anything for you... other than that you must flush/clean first.

[ducpainter]

They write about not caring about wet boiling point - which on a street bike is kind of important. However, we 'never' get close to either dry or wet boiling point, so this fluid isn't changing anything for you... other than that you must flush/clean first.

They also say not for street use. It's possible the wet boiling point is extremely low and fluid that is in use for a year might not perform properly.

The color might be sweet...the price isn't worth it to me for bling.

[d3vi@nt]

As quick as new clutch fluid gets dirty, I'm guessing it wouldn't look great for long...

[stopintime]

The less advanced, but still pure racing, Brembo LCF 600 Plus has a wet boiling point of 'only' 204 C. Since the top fluid isn't even labeled with a wet boiling point, I'm assuming it's lower.

I'm comparing that with 'my' DOT4 Castrol React SFR Racing (18 months service life) which has 270 C wet boiling point (and actually higher dry than the LCF 600 Plus...)

So, it boils (!) down to the question if the red color is worth the cleaning/flushing and frequent (?) required changes.

I think all of these are more than capable of handling a street bike's temperatures.

[Speeddog]

I suspect that Howie can clarify further, but IIRC it's much as dp and stopintime stated, the high end racing fluid is better, but is far more sensitive to water contamination.

Fine for a meticulously maintained racebike, but not for the dodgy maintenance that many racebikes and streetbikes get.

[Howie]

Yep, wet boiling point is not an issue in racing fluid.  Of real concern is they do not state a wet boiling point.  Any brake fluid of color other than amber is not street legal in the US, which is why ATE Super Blue, which is identical to Ate TYP200 (dry boiling point 280^oc, wet 198^oc, which well exceeds DOT 4 standards.  True racing fluid may also be missing some additives needed for street use.  IMO, no street bike needs better than DOT 4.  

[koko64]

Previous owner of my Gixxer used you beaut super dooper race brake fluid and hardly rode it for a year (didnt tell me that part but I found out  ). I had to change back to regular Dot 4 as it pretty much had no brakes after a couple of laps. I change brake fluid every year or two depending what I've used. As others have said, race brake fluid performs better, but only for one meet.