08' 696 monster timing mark

[Pinion]

yes, i will make one or some, just looking for the socket to remove cam pully.
might have to make some of those too.
All who read this, dont walk away from your bike whilst idling to answer your phone.

[EEL]

Funny how history repeats. I went thru the same frustration a few years ago with the 1100 in comparison to my older S2R 800. They made things overly complicated.

So based on where you're at, I'm going to jump out on a limb and predict your next question/frustration. Once you set the pulleys, how to you set your timing on your crank. You have a notch on the crank pulley that lines up with the case but its so fat you can be off by a few degrees. The older bikes had a sight glass on the flywheel that you could precisely line a small dot too. The newer models dont have this.

Here is your answer.. Again way more complicated than it ever needed to be.

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=69898.0

[Pinion]

I have all of that info, just looking for the tools to do the job. not my bike, a friends and is burnt up
I have to replace all the inner and outer covers. in order to do so, pullys mus be removed

[koko64]

Ah, the home made castle nut.

[EEL]

Ah, the home made castle nut.

I've always wondered if one of the Motion pro tools would work..I've never checked the dimensions with the cam but they do come in a couple of sizes.

https://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/spanner_nut_sockets/

[Speeddog]

OEM castle nut 'socket':

OD 29.4mm
ID 21.0mm
4 teeth, 3.56mm thick x 5.8mm tall

[EEL]

Hmm. Could you start with this one and shave down the teeth? The Od doesnt matter as much as the ID right???

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0572

Its only 24 bucks... That's not horribly bad if it works

[Speeddog]

With some careful dremel work, I think it would work.

Biggest problem with the castle nuts is they're so short that the socket doesn't get any support.
So you have to exert pure torque on it.
And you've got to hold the pulley too.

HDESA and laser tools on EBay have stuff that's not expensive, and they say it fits.

The short handles on the pulley holding tools are only usable if they can be restrained by the frame or engine case.
The castle nuts are really f'n tight.

[EEL]

HDESA has some really great prices. Good info.

[MonsterHPD]

I've skimmed over the posts in this thread, and I don't recognize most of it ... I had no idea it was this complicated. Maybe I was just lucky when I adjusted valve clearances and installed new belts on my HYM1100 motor last year? Don't remember how I did it, so I suppose I did it as I've always done ....

Ayway, with so much uncertainty, I'd take the opportunity and do a proper cam timimg job. Seems like a good opportunity to correct the notoriously wanky Duc cam timing, and make your own cam timing marks while you're at it. Just to make sure ..... or?   

[koko64]

I have used replacement nylock pulley nuts from Vee Two, but I dont know who supplies them nowdays. A used cambelt held with a molewrench helps hold the pulley in place while using the castlenut socket.

[Speeddog]

This is the OEM socket and pulley holder tool, and the 1/2" breaker bar I use.

It's a barely adequate setup to do the castle nuts freehand.

If you've got the adjustable pulleys, you'll need a tool to grab the outside.
There's 18 and 20 tooth pulleys, so make sure to get the right one.

I've skimmed over the posts in this thread, and I don't recognize most of it ... I had no idea it was this complicated. Maybe I was just lucky when I adjusted valve clearances and installed new belts on my HYM1100 motor last year? Don't remember how I did it, so I suppose I did it as I've always done ....

Ayway, with so much uncertainty, I'd take the opportunity and do a proper cam timimg job. Seems like a good opportunity to correct the notoriously wanky Duc cam timing, and make your own cam timing marks while you're at it. Just to make sure ..... or?    

On these models that don't have any marks to use, I'll confirm they're correct using the hashmark on the sidecover and the pin alignment holes in the cam covers.
Then I mark the rear belt covers aligned with the dot on the pulleys.

No harm in doing a proper cam timing job, at all.

[koko64]

Yep this^^^.
A scribe and marking paint for belt and tdc dots.

[Pinion]

The Hedesa tools are earlier models. I had one, and worked good for one motor. Teeth snapped on the 2nd. Ordered a 2nd and was too big for top pulleys. I use and old belt and vise grips on the pulley to hold. Oh tricks.
Have another socket on the way from the brits.

[Pinion]

This is the OEM socket and pulley holder tool, and the 1/2" breaker bar I use.

It's a barely adequate setup to do the castle nuts freehand.

If you've got the adjustable pulleys, you'll need a tool to grab the outside.
There's 18 and 20 tooth pulleys, so make sure to get the right one.



On these models that don't have any marks to use, I'll confirm they're correct using the hashmark on the sidecover and the pin alignment holes in the cam covers.
Then I mark the rear belt covers aligned with the dot on the pulleys.

No harm in doing a proper cam timing job, at all.

I have something similar coming. going to set time and all. Honestly still have to find out if any valve damage was done also. once belts are on going to do compresion test. everything feels smooth, hoping for the best since pulling vert head means tearing the bikee down on this thing. going to make a pin for the cam, once all is set up I will mark new inner covers. 
Note to self, a) dont say yes to friends, b) dont buy a 696. lol