Setting Timing; cam tricks ...cam degreeing?

[DuciD03]

Got the project s2r 1k rebuilt engine back with new used cases last week work done by Duc tec at a Duc dealership; it looks a little more like a usable engine.  

Finally had a chance to check it over and looked at the timing this weekend ... then noticed the 3 Allen bolts on the horizontal timing pulley were loose and the pulley was loose (wtf!); tightened them and continued to line up the timing marks ...  before the work was done; I noticed the top pully was off what looked like one about one tooth (10 degrees?).

Could the cams have been "degreed" this engine only has 3k miles on her. What would degreeing do for performance?; sound? I've heard of degree-ing cams to make a car engine "lop"; is that why degree-ing is done?.

Cam Timing (i'll be reading duc mec shop manual; then do a little internet researching after this) IF I reset the timing start by (- I'm Guessing here -) I should  insert cam stop locks (what size allen key would work; 5mm?) into holes in side of cam heads; when central main 2x pullies are  at Top Dead Centre (TDC); and set cam pullies to TDC; and "voila" I'm done? OR should I set it back to degree-ed?  Before I took it in it looked like the top was off 10 degrees ... but have not seen this engine running.

Back story - project engine had case frame mounts snapped off, requested and agreed to R&R swap the engine with used parts form original engine to redo the bottom end (tec request the whole engine come in); at a very reasonable 4 hrs at full dealership hourly rate, so thought they were doing this to keep themselves busy and generate some cash flow in the off season in February, and doing a bit of a favor and to win a new customer; but... tec started complaining this would take longer when tec was 1/2 way done (they have me by the short and curly hairs at this point; alarm bells ring in head); some discussion with service manager then owner; where I really have to choose words carefully, and tap into inner be calm mantra (breath even calm ommmmm); we get to a compromised and I paid for another hour at a 2/3 rate (again reasonable); however long it was going to take him (extra 2h?), then tec found inner clutch boss has drag tec R&R-ed the clutch boss with some used parts, when it was back together ... used parts and labour for gratis on the boss (lucky they worked this out and did it while I wasn't there; so no blood spilt), again nice; but tec was annoyed and said felt rushed.

... so that's why the timing is off? and the Allen bolts were loose?

[Dirty Duc]

Those Allen bolts set the adjustable timing on the cams... so if they were loose, then the timing could be in a large range of adjustment. I'm sure there's a spec, I just don't know it.

I'm sure ducatitech.com has posted video.

[DuciD03]

Those Allen bolts set the adjustable timing on the cams... so if they were loose, then the timing could be in a large range of adjustment. I'm sure there's a spec, I just don't know it.

I'm sure ducatitech.com has posted video.

Thanks for that explanation,  some tec knowledge you have (that I don't ...lol) ... I did a bit of reading on belts and timing; and internet looking but the specifics seem to be hidden; Ill look again for the video; I saw the 1000DS belt replacement part 1&2 but didn't see one on can timing adjustment.

The TDC marks on the belt pullies are not coordinated seems like when the central main is on TDC then horiz lines up but vert does not; also; mark on washer on horizontal does not match pully TDC mark & the cam locks are not; also; cam locks on both heads do not lock at the same time (about 10 degrees difference).

Cheers D